awpagan said:
I doubt it, we're all waiting for parts!
I would hope they are at least working on cases though.
Troy
making cases!
don't remind me please?
Just etched some pcb's. (similar to jans)
will drill and stuff tomorrow, hopefully.
then workout best way to mount on heatsinks
using these http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/flat_hd.html
4 all up 2 per channel MF18-151.5
allan
making cases!
don't remind me please?
Just etched some pcb's. (similar to jans)
will drill and stuff tomorrow, hopefully.
then workout best way to mount on heatsinks
using these http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/flat_hd.html
4 all up 2 per channel MF18-151.5
allan
I'm not too thrilled to be here in Texas but I can deal with it since just about anything is in reach here in Dallas.
However, everytime I see those beautiful, inexpensive Conrad heat sinks (EVERY model) I get weak in the knees....
However, everytime I see those beautiful, inexpensive Conrad heat sinks (EVERY model) I get weak in the knees....
Just finished recaseing my other amp (modded sc15watt to 25-30w)
using http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/flat100_350.html#MF35
2 * MF35-151.5
They should be fairly cheap for america? given the exhange rate.
allan
woops misread (IN)-expensive
must be too late there, sleep time
using http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/flat100_350.html#MF35
2 * MF35-151.5
They should be fairly cheap for america? given the exhange rate.
allan
woops misread (IN)-expensive
must be too late there, sleep time
The second page of "Solid State" is no place for the Krell KSA 50 pcb thread to be!
Anyway, it seems I got my answer from Antek on the 67-0-67 Toroid I got from them. Thanks to all again.
The 4 Green wires are for powering a preamp circuit. They are 12-0-12v.
The blue wires are the 67v taps. 4 wires is easy to figure out now that the greens are out of the way 😀
Anyway, it seems I got my answer from Antek on the 67-0-67 Toroid I got from them. Thanks to all again.
The 4 Green wires are for powering a preamp circuit. They are 12-0-12v.
The blue wires are the 67v taps. 4 wires is easy to figure out now that the greens are out of the way 😀
pinkmouse said:
I had thought about using the lower voltage winding of a transformer for a soft start but don't most softstart circuits reduce the voltage on the input side of the transformer? Would the lower power windings still have enough power to work?
Thanks, Terry
still4given said:
Yes if using a thermister on the primary. That way after a second or so the thermister will be down at like .1 ohm and your soft start circ will be running a full voltage, allowing it to switch a relay and bypass the thermister.
If you use a resistor and bypass it with your soft start, it might work depending on the value of resistance and the type of relay, a 12 v relay would usable with a 15VAC secondary (21VDC) regulated down to 12V even at pretty high input v attenuation.
If no one is spending the time to build their amp, take a few minutes and look at my CES 2006 Report
Called Mouser again today to see the expected time for the last 3 sets of resistors.
Was told FEB 20th! I told them to cancel and refund.
I hope to find a new supplier forthe following parts.. Suggestions?
1. RN60D8200D ea. x 100
2. CA000225R00JB14 ea. x 150
3. TUW5JR68 ea. x 300
That is Mouser part #'s. Here are the links. Note the first item can be RN60"C or D"
1. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=553625&e_categoryid=345&e_pcodeid=71001
2. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=470767&e_categoryid=362&e_pcodeid=71031
3. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=706379&e_categoryid=358&e_pcodeid=58820
On a side note... Look what I got for testing the initial turn up....
Was told FEB 20th! I told them to cancel and refund.
I hope to find a new supplier forthe following parts.. Suggestions?
1. RN60D8200D ea. x 100
2. CA000225R00JB14 ea. x 150
3. TUW5JR68 ea. x 300
That is Mouser part #'s. Here are the links. Note the first item can be RN60"C or D"
1. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=553625&e_categoryid=345&e_pcodeid=71001
2. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=470767&e_categoryid=362&e_pcodeid=71031
3. http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?han...uctid=706379&e_categoryid=358&e_pcodeid=58820
On a side note... Look what I got for testing the initial turn up....
Attachments
Hi Troy,
That's the exact same variac that I have. Never had a problem with it.
Blessings, Terry
That's the exact same variac that I have. Never had a problem with it.
Blessings, Terry
How much was it? I got a used 28amp variac from ebay for $75 and I was told I got ripped off.... 😕
K-amps said:
I paid $75 + 15 for shipping... And am darn happy with that amount. But then again I try not to worry about what others say.... I'm a rebel...
K-amps said:
When would you ever need 28amps for audio? Mine is 20A and I did pop the fuse once when I had a PSU hooked up backward. I don't ever use it wihout the ligh bulb in series anymore.
Blessings, Terry
still4given said:
Proably the same reason you need 20 amps...
But that said, it was an auction not a store... he had only one... I'd rather have 28 amps than 15 amps... it will only consume what I throw at it....right? Not sure I got the question Terry,
rabstg said:
I paid $75 + 15 for shipping... And am darn happy with that amount. But then again I try not to worry about what others say.... I'm a rebel...
True, I was just curious... I seem to be in the same ballpark valuewise, but you guys got a good deal, new Variac for $75... no way could you get a 2.4kva Toroid for that much money...😀