pinkmouse said:so far?
So far i provisionally geared one channel together to reach my Christmas deadline, sort of.
Sound is rather good on a dynamic speaker, do not have the balls to try an ELS yet.
I had it up to 2.5amps bias at 35Vdc, single powersupply.
Can't say yet whether it is better than the original, and if putting a bunch of Sankens in the output stage is worth it.
The Krell KSA50 punch it does have, and control, the 10" Vifa woofer really moves impressive.
And it does not have the lack of sensitivity all of the later Krells had.
The therapist episode left me with migraines and an "end of BBC transmission beep" in my head 24/7, not much of an objective listener right now.
just been grouping my parts bin.
i have 2 * 33,000uF 50v cap
1 * 28v ac 500va-plus, Its huge!!!! also has 35v ac for regulated front, which i'm not useing yet and another voltage useful for fans etc.
from an old Lentek amp.
also
8 * 10,000uF 100v caps
4 * 8,000uF 80v caps
I was going to run transformer to the two 33,000uF caps then
split into 2 channels 4 *10,000uf, 2 * 8000uF
CRCCRC to drop volts to +-36v
any other suggestions?
allan
i have 2 * 33,000uF 50v cap
1 * 28v ac 500va-plus, Its huge!!!! also has 35v ac for regulated front, which i'm not useing yet and another voltage useful for fans etc.
from an old Lentek amp.
also
8 * 10,000uF 100v caps
4 * 8,000uF 80v caps
I was going to run transformer to the two 33,000uF caps then
split into 2 channels 4 *10,000uf, 2 * 8000uF
CRCCRC to drop volts to +-36v
any other suggestions?
allan
Hi Allen
That certainly should work well, and I'll be interested to hear your findings. I thought about many different types of PSU layout but the simple CC with two 56K caps per rail worked well in testing, so that I may well just go for that in the final version. However, I may well leave room in the case for further experimentation...
That certainly should work well, and I'll be interested to hear your findings. I thought about many different types of PSU layout but the simple CC with two 56K caps per rail worked well in testing, so that I may well just go for that in the final version. However, I may well leave room in the case for further experimentation...
don not have choice at present.
if i had 4 * 33,000uf it would be easier.
was thinking regalated but
just wanted to use these large caps i have siiting around
and the current they can deliver.
don't know exactly what the tranny can deliver, but is one way of testing it.
looking at using .1ohm resitors as CRCCRC configuration.
will measure ripple and experiment.
allan
ps have pcb's made and stuffed
working out best for mouning on heatsinks.
Output pcb's worked out just need to etch tomorrow.
if i had 4 * 33,000uf it would be easier.
was thinking regalated but
just wanted to use these large caps i have siiting around
and the current they can deliver.
don't know exactly what the tranny can deliver, but is one way of testing it.
looking at using .1ohm resitors as CRCCRC configuration.
will measure ripple and experiment.
allan
ps have pcb's made and stuffed
working out best for mouning on heatsinks.
Output pcb's worked out just need to etch tomorrow.
awpagan said:
CRCCRC to drop volts to +-36v
Curious what assumptions you made to calculate the Vdrop across the R's.
Hi,
I would expect the 28Vac+28Vac to be just about perfect for the Klone.
You could use 10mF+8mF as first stage smoothing, two caps to share the heavy AC loading.
A single 0r1 (per channel) before the main banks and then all the remaining 10mF +33mF as the main PSU.
You would then have RCRC (first R is transformer secondary resistance) with the 0r1 dropping about 0.2V when Iq=1.9A.
You are needing about 94mF to give +-68mF per channel so go and buy 8 or 10 off 10mF 50V electrolytics.
I would expect the 28Vac+28Vac to be just about perfect for the Klone.
You could use 10mF+8mF as first stage smoothing, two caps to share the heavy AC loading.
A single 0r1 (per channel) before the main banks and then all the remaining 10mF +33mF as the main PSU.
You would then have RCRC (first R is transformer secondary resistance) with the 0r1 dropping about 0.2V when Iq=1.9A.
You are needing about 94mF to give +-68mF per channel so go and buy 8 or 10 off 10mF 50V electrolytics.
resistors
Hi Guys,
Just wanted to let you know that after searching for a while I have located the box that has the resistors in it, extracted three cases and will ship them off to Troy ASAP.
My 'lab' is slowly reappearing from storage and I may be able to solder something within the week...
Stuart
Hi Guys,
Just wanted to let you know that after searching for a while I have located the box that has the resistors in it, extracted three cases and will ship them off to Troy ASAP.
My 'lab' is slowly reappearing from storage and I may be able to solder something within the week...
Stuart
This is just to get this thread back on the first page and get the link to the building wiki exposed.
My supports for the R-Core transformers are ready. The attached picture shows the support for the stereo version. I just put the AA battery in front of it for size comparison 🙂
Regards
My supports for the R-Core transformers are ready. The attached picture shows the support for the stereo version. I just put the AA battery in front of it for size comparison 🙂
Regards
Attachments
I still have a good number of the second run of boards available if anyone out there is still interested in building this....
All of the $$ collected is going to DIY as a donation so your funds are going to a good cause.
Payment by PayPal. Personal check, or M.O. All funds need be in US dollars and drawn on a US bank. No foreign currency or foreign bank checks please. My credit union does not accept foreign checks or currency.... been there done that have a small stack of foreign checks that are useless to me.
E-mail me for payment details
Thanks!
Mark
All of the $$ collected is going to DIY as a donation so your funds are going to a good cause.
Payment by PayPal. Personal check, or M.O. All funds need be in US dollars and drawn on a US bank. No foreign currency or foreign bank checks please. My credit union does not accept foreign checks or currency.... been there done that have a small stack of foreign checks that are useless to me.
E-mail me for payment details
Thanks!
Mark
Hi Mark,
still waiting for my 4 boards. It's been two months.
Please email me details of the method you used for shipping so as I can try and track them down.
Thanks
Harry
still waiting for my 4 boards. It's been two months.
Please email me details of the method you used for shipping so as I can try and track them down.
Thanks
Harry
Harry,
Its my fault. I messed up and didn't ship them out but they are on their way now. I shipped them yesterday. Sorry for my mixup on that! I have since come up with a much better way to track who's who in KSA pcb's!
Mark
Its my fault. I messed up and didn't ship them out but they are on their way now. I shipped them yesterday. Sorry for my mixup on that! I have since come up with a much better way to track who's who in KSA pcb's!
Mark
Possible. The only way to tell is to swap it out. Is it recovered from something else, and has it always done it?
Hi everyone.
At the Swedish DIYforum I visit from time to time there's a guy that's doing Laser-engravings (did i get that right?) on diferent materials. If a person has, for example, that nifty Krellogo that I saw a while back in this thread on vectorformat he can make small (or large) plackets of this.
What I'm trying to say that if someone can make a suitable logo in autocad or such I know someone whoo can get this engraved on to small aluminumplates in silver or Gold. The price is about 2$/sqr-cm.
I havn't got the time (or experience) to handle a Groupbuy or similar just now but if theres an intrest I can refer you to him and perhaps you guys can handle something yourselves?
Edit:
The ad is in swedish but atleast you can se what i'm getting at at the end of the page.
Link
Rectangular format with/without rounded corners, with holes or the kind with a sticky back 🙂
black/silver/gold anodized aluminum with black/gold/silver engraving.
Moderators.
If this is against rules then feel free to edit it.
At the Swedish DIYforum I visit from time to time there's a guy that's doing Laser-engravings (did i get that right?) on diferent materials. If a person has, for example, that nifty Krellogo that I saw a while back in this thread on vectorformat he can make small (or large) plackets of this.
What I'm trying to say that if someone can make a suitable logo in autocad or such I know someone whoo can get this engraved on to small aluminumplates in silver or Gold. The price is about 2$/sqr-cm.
I havn't got the time (or experience) to handle a Groupbuy or similar just now but if theres an intrest I can refer you to him and perhaps you guys can handle something yourselves?
Edit:
The ad is in swedish but atleast you can se what i'm getting at at the end of the page.
Link
Rectangular format with/without rounded corners, with holes or the kind with a sticky back 🙂
black/silver/gold anodized aluminum with black/gold/silver engraving.
Moderators.
If this is against rules then feel free to edit it.
I hope this is not against the rules of the forum.
It would be a nice service to the European DIY community
It would be a nice service to the European DIY community
As I meam, Dan d' Agostino have logo Krell registred and you guys haven't right to use it...Your " babys " will be not Krell, but only copy of original... BTW, do you think, that with logo it will be sounded better ? Copyright isn't for joke...

actually
Its new and at $10-14 kind of expensive to be monkeying around with. Only started doing it recently.
Possible. The only way to tell is to swap it out. Is it recovered from something else, and has it always done it?
Its new and at $10-14 kind of expensive to be monkeying around with. Only started doing it recently.
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