well I connected a DVD player and played some music through it. It went quite loud, but hardly got past 1 o'clock before the amp turned the volume down due to clipping protection so I guess it was the source before.
Even when it is loud, it is still very easy to listen to, so it doesn't give as much of an impression of that unlistenable loud.
Really enjoying my Speakers, will try putting some bricks in, (2 should do).
Even when it is loud, it is still very easy to listen to, so it doesn't give as much of an impression of that unlistenable loud.
Really enjoying my Speakers, will try putting some bricks in, (2 should do).
I think the woofer is rated around 60W so would give roughly 106dB at 1m with 64W which is very loud. I forget the exact numbers but you would get around 99dB at an average listening position of 3m.
I have noticed a lot of amps go into clipping or protection well before the speaker with a much lower rating gives up.
I have a 55W amp here which keeps on going well after so called 150W+ amps pack it in.
Enjoy!
I have noticed a lot of amps go into clipping or protection well before the speaker with a much lower rating gives up.
I have a 55W amp here which keeps on going well after so called 150W+ amps pack it in.
Enjoy!
There is a way to turn clipping protection off, I might give it a burn knowing that I only want to try it for a fairly short period of time (not even the length of a track). Otherwise the volumes are perfectly suitable for 99% of the time.
The speakers are great, they look great but more importantly they sound good too, looking forward to giving them a crack on solid floors.
~vovo
The speakers are great, they look great but more importantly they sound good too, looking forward to giving them a crack on solid floors.
~vovo
Finally finished. Well, kinda! 🙂
I haven't attached the back because I want to do it properly so it's removable and dad said to wait until he gets back from his next swing.
The important thing is I am listening to them as I type and I'm already very happy even without acoustic stuffing or back of the box and through a $30 T-Amp 😛 (probably sacrilege around here.)
Anyway, just want to thank you all for being a part of this amazing journey! They aren't pretty but they hold a special place in my audio menagerie purely because of the people here that have taught me so much!
Sorry I took so long! 😉 😱
I haven't attached the back because I want to do it properly so it's removable and dad said to wait until he gets back from his next swing.
The important thing is I am listening to them as I type and I'm already very happy even without acoustic stuffing or back of the box and through a $30 T-Amp 😛 (probably sacrilege around here.)
Anyway, just want to thank you all for being a part of this amazing journey! They aren't pretty but they hold a special place in my audio menagerie purely because of the people here that have taught me so much!
Sorry I took so long! 😉 😱
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Well done Matt. In this game the journey is as much fun as arriving at the destination. 🙂
When they are completed you will notice extra body and fullness to the sound.
When they are completed you will notice extra body and fullness to the sound.
Thanks guys, they are really coming alive. 🙂 Can't wait to put the finishing touches on them! Will probably do a final gloss white coat on them when i put the back on them, will post moar pictures then.
Just wondering if an LM3875 would be a noticeable improvement over an TA2020? I've been eying one off for a while and I might be able to pick up a second hand one in the swap meet. I'll probably use the TA2020 with the madisound kit when I build it, or am I better of saving money and just getting another TA2020?
I don't know about the TA2020 but I have a TA2024 based amp here and it doesn't come close to a LM3875. I've built several LM3875 using my home brew PCB as well as AudioSector kits. I find these to have more body and engagement over the TA2024 and not to mention extra power available.
AudioSector LM3875
AudioSector LM3875
Ok sweet, I've got to find something that I can sell to cover the cost of an LM3875. Audiosector has held my eye for a long time.
You haven't got a pre-loved one you'd like to sell on to me by anychance? 🙂
You haven't got a pre-loved one you'd like to sell on to me by anychance? 🙂
been listening to my speakers tonight, playing some Tommy Emmanuel... Simple brilliant. 🙂
thanks for that link Frank, I think when I do go down the road of a GC ill go with one of Pete Daniel's kits, save a bit of time.
One last thing rabbitz, may i ask what program you use for your speaker drawings?
Thanks again,
matt.
thanks for that link Frank, I think when I do go down the road of a GC ill go with one of Pete Daniel's kits, save a bit of time.
One last thing rabbitz, may i ask what program you use for your speaker drawings?
Thanks again,
matt.
I use AutoSketch Release 6 which is an Autodesk product. It's old but works well and picked it up off ebay many years ago for around $15.
Almost all my apps are over 10 years old so tend to run fast even under Win 7.
Almost all my apps are over 10 years old so tend to run fast even under Win 7.
Hi guys,
I'm a new member wanting to build a set of book shelve speakers similar to what matt built himself in this thread. I'm also from the land down under (Tasmania specifically) so I thought I would just add to this thread rather than start a new one.
I have recently completed building a Peter Daniel (audiosector) LM3875 gainclone amp which is working very nicely. I have used a 25V 300VA toroidal transformer which is producing roughly 35 volts after rectification. Speakers with an 8 ohm impedance look like the go.
I really have no idea when it comes to building loudspeakers, I've had a look through this thread but I really need to do more research. If anyone can give me some advice, that would be great.
A few questions then.
1. Is the impedance of the speaker solely determined by the speaker alone or is it influenced by the crossover also? So if I want some 8 ohm loudspeakers, do I need to buy 8 ohm speakers and tweeters?
2. I've seen some kits such as the M4 and M5 from The Loud Speaker Kit (LSK), are these good value for money, or can I do better? I have fairly decent (yet basic) wood working ability, so I am not one to shy away from building my own speaker enclosures. I'm also not against building my own crossovers if there are savings to be made there, as long as I know what I am doing, I'm assuming their are some good guides on this forum or kits about that should suffice.
3. I've seen speakers which are labelled bass/midrange, will these be a better choice over a regular midrange speaker considering I won't be building a subwoofer anytime soon (this system is for my bedroom which is roughly 5m x 4m).
4. What are the best sources for obtaining speaker components. I've already come across Speakerbits which looks to be good.
Thanks
I'm a new member wanting to build a set of book shelve speakers similar to what matt built himself in this thread. I'm also from the land down under (Tasmania specifically) so I thought I would just add to this thread rather than start a new one.
I have recently completed building a Peter Daniel (audiosector) LM3875 gainclone amp which is working very nicely. I have used a 25V 300VA toroidal transformer which is producing roughly 35 volts after rectification. Speakers with an 8 ohm impedance look like the go.
I really have no idea when it comes to building loudspeakers, I've had a look through this thread but I really need to do more research. If anyone can give me some advice, that would be great.
A few questions then.
1. Is the impedance of the speaker solely determined by the speaker alone or is it influenced by the crossover also? So if I want some 8 ohm loudspeakers, do I need to buy 8 ohm speakers and tweeters?
2. I've seen some kits such as the M4 and M5 from The Loud Speaker Kit (LSK), are these good value for money, or can I do better? I have fairly decent (yet basic) wood working ability, so I am not one to shy away from building my own speaker enclosures. I'm also not against building my own crossovers if there are savings to be made there, as long as I know what I am doing, I'm assuming their are some good guides on this forum or kits about that should suffice.
3. I've seen speakers which are labelled bass/midrange, will these be a better choice over a regular midrange speaker considering I won't be building a subwoofer anytime soon (this system is for my bedroom which is roughly 5m x 4m).
4. What are the best sources for obtaining speaker components. I've already come across Speakerbits which looks to be good.
Thanks
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Impedance is determined by the driver & box, it is not constant across the frequency range; Crossovers are designed to control the impedance. You can mix different impedances, but you need to know what you're doing - I'd suggest following an established design.
Some more reading: Passive Crossover Network Design
A source local to you:
Darcher Audio
Some more reading: Passive Crossover Network Design
A source local to you:
Darcher Audio
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The LM3875 with 35VDC rails really needs an 8R nom speaker as it would have problems with low impedance loads. I use 25VDC rails which allows use of low impedance speakers but loses power but gains current. Just choose a speaker to suit and all is well.
To answer your questions:
1. The final impedance of a loudspeaker is a combination of the drivers and implementation of the crossover. Best to use 8R woofers but tweeters can be a lower impedance to achieve the result. An 8R nom impedance loudspeaker can have dips down to 5R6 which is no problem. Remember the impedance plot is not flat but like a roller coaster over the frequency range.
2. You can do much better than the M4 & M5 kits as the woofers are PAE which are fine for low cost drivers but for a few dollars more, can do much better. Have a look at this kit from Madisound and is exceptional value and uses great drivers. Even with around US$100 shipping, it's a bargain. BTW, they don't stick around for long and there were a lot disappointed builders when the previous RB kits sold out.
Madisound RB3
They have other great kits and depends on how much you want to spend. Generally as the price goes up, so does the SQ.
3. For a 2-way you need a mid-bass driver. Mids are only used in 3-ways etc.
4. Speakerbits are a good supplier but remember the prices are ex GST. Here's some others from Oz, NZ, USA.
Darcheraudio Aus
Digitalmegahouse Aus
Hasaudio NZ
Madisound USA
Soundlabsgroup Aus
Speakerbug crossover parts Aus
For projects have a look at these sites.
Troelsgravesen Loudspeaker Projects
Zaphaudio
To answer your questions:
1. The final impedance of a loudspeaker is a combination of the drivers and implementation of the crossover. Best to use 8R woofers but tweeters can be a lower impedance to achieve the result. An 8R nom impedance loudspeaker can have dips down to 5R6 which is no problem. Remember the impedance plot is not flat but like a roller coaster over the frequency range.
2. You can do much better than the M4 & M5 kits as the woofers are PAE which are fine for low cost drivers but for a few dollars more, can do much better. Have a look at this kit from Madisound and is exceptional value and uses great drivers. Even with around US$100 shipping, it's a bargain. BTW, they don't stick around for long and there were a lot disappointed builders when the previous RB kits sold out.
Madisound RB3
They have other great kits and depends on how much you want to spend. Generally as the price goes up, so does the SQ.
3. For a 2-way you need a mid-bass driver. Mids are only used in 3-ways etc.
4. Speakerbits are a good supplier but remember the prices are ex GST. Here's some others from Oz, NZ, USA.
Darcheraudio Aus
Digitalmegahouse Aus
Hasaudio NZ
Madisound USA
Soundlabsgroup Aus
Speakerbug crossover parts Aus
For projects have a look at these sites.
Troelsgravesen Loudspeaker Projects
Zaphaudio
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