Some are marked. Some of them you could take to the nearest electronic service shop and have it measured (this could be a problem depending on where you live, Rоссия огромна).
Or buy DATS (like i have) and measure them yourself. It is a good excuse to buy it and proved invaluable to me since i wind my coils. Also, capacitors can have large tolerances and you might want to check those new ones for capacitance. 5-10% is quite common.
Or buy DATS (like i have) and measure them yourself. It is a good excuse to buy it and proved invaluable to me since i wind my coils. Also, capacitors can have large tolerances and you might want to check those new ones for capacitance. 5-10% is quite common.
I have a few pics put together, that show 3 of the 4 values. 6uf 12uf and 50uf
It looks like a real and a fake r300 board are shown. You can get them from Singapore, but they won't separate them from a full kit with drivers. Some values are taken from each.
The tweeter cap wants taking out to check it. The plasticine is easy to slice and peel, but on my boards the value was on the under-side of the cap, so I had to lift it. It seems they took some care to orientate them that way, as each couldn't be read without removal. R700 mine, but I would be interested what the R300 uses, as I have some spare drivers.
Edit: Reviews say the same 2.8khz
It looks like a real and a fake r300 board are shown. You can get them from Singapore, but they won't separate them from a full kit with drivers. Some values are taken from each.
The tweeter cap wants taking out to check it. The plasticine is easy to slice and peel, but on my boards the value was on the under-side of the cap, so I had to lift it. It seems they took some care to orientate them that way, as each couldn't be read without removal. R700 mine, but I would be interested what the R300 uses, as I have some spare drivers.
Edit: Reviews say the same 2.8khz
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