Could you please post the scheme of the factory crossover?
I never bothered to take factory crossover since it measured that bad.
Thank you for answer. I see. I have kef r300 and I think to replace some parts (capacitors) of the factory crossover. So I need their capacity.I never bothered to take factory crossover since it measured that bad.
If you're going to replace them anyway, just read the values written on them when you unmount it from pcb. Shouldn't be too difficult.
If you're going to replace them anyway, just read the values written on them when you unmount it from pcb. Shouldn't be too difficult.
Very valuable observation. The fact is that as you could see, these parts are not marked.
Some are marked. Some of them you could take to the nearest electronic service shop and have it measured (this could be a problem depending on where you live, Rоссия огромна).
Or buy DATS (like i have) and measure them yourself. It is a good excuse to buy it and proved invaluable to me since i wind my coils. Also, capacitors can have large tolerances and you might want to check those new ones for capacitance. 5-10% is quite common.
Or buy DATS (like i have) and measure them yourself. It is a good excuse to buy it and proved invaluable to me since i wind my coils. Also, capacitors can have large tolerances and you might want to check those new ones for capacitance. 5-10% is quite common.
Some are marked. Some of them you could take to the nearest electronic service shop and have it measured (this could be a problem depending on where you live, Rоссия огромна).
Or buy DATS (like i have) and measure them yourself. It is a good excuse to buy it and proved invaluable to me since i wind my coils. Also, capacitors can have large tolerances and you might want to check those new ones for capacitance. 5-10% is quite common.
Of course. But first need to dismantle them. This is burdensome. I just wanted to improve the sound with minimal costs.
I have a few pics put together, that show 3 of the 4 values. 6uf 12uf and 50uf
It looks like a real and a fake r300 board are shown. You can get them from Singapore, but they won't separate them from a full kit with drivers. Some values are taken from each.
The tweeter cap wants taking out to check it. The plasticine is easy to slice and peel, but on my boards the value was on the under-side of the cap, so I had to lift it. It seems they took some care to orientate them that way, as each couldn't be read without removal. R700 mine, but I would be interested what the R300 uses, as I have some spare drivers.
Edit: Reviews say the same 2.8khz
It looks like a real and a fake r300 board are shown. You can get them from Singapore, but they won't separate them from a full kit with drivers. Some values are taken from each.
The tweeter cap wants taking out to check it. The plasticine is easy to slice and peel, but on my boards the value was on the under-side of the cap, so I had to lift it. It seems they took some care to orientate them that way, as each couldn't be read without removal. R700 mine, but I would be interested what the R300 uses, as I have some spare drivers.
Edit: Reviews say the same 2.8khz
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