Have been playing around with a pair of vintage cone tweeters while I have been waiting for my GRS tweeters. I didnt like the old ones, much preferred the Vifa's.
But now I got the GRS, and man I dig these! A big thanks to Steve for letting me know about these paper cone tweeters and BW 3 crossover design.
But now I got the GRS, and man I dig these! A big thanks to Steve for letting me know about these paper cone tweeters and BW 3 crossover design.
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Nice work, my friend. 🙂
Those old phenolic ring tweeters are a legend! 104mm is a bonus too. 90db output, about 7R DC, and flattish too. Easy!
Phenolic Ring Tweeter Replacement for AR-4X CTS Marantz and More 8 Ohm
I have been busy with W200S plus Monacor HT22:
Genuine 90 degree BW3! No power hole at crossover!
I weakened and gave the 1970's 8" 20L Wharfedale Super Linton a new home for £30. Both tweeters blown, but hey, I expected no different. Usual Wharfedale stuffing in the closed cabs. Terrible speaker screw on connectors. Bass coil, and 8uF plus coil plus 15R shunt on tweeter. I'll fix them up. Basses are fine after I sucked one dented dustcap back into shape with a vacuum cleaner. Bit of furniture polish should fix the cabs.
Those old phenolic ring tweeters are a legend! 104mm is a bonus too. 90db output, about 7R DC, and flattish too. Easy!
Phenolic Ring Tweeter Replacement for AR-4X CTS Marantz and More 8 Ohm
I have been busy with W200S plus Monacor HT22:
Genuine 90 degree BW3! No power hole at crossover!
I weakened and gave the 1970's 8" 20L Wharfedale Super Linton a new home for £30. Both tweeters blown, but hey, I expected no different. Usual Wharfedale stuffing in the closed cabs. Terrible speaker screw on connectors. Bass coil, and 8uF plus coil plus 15R shunt on tweeter. I'll fix them up. Basses are fine after I sucked one dented dustcap back into shape with a vacuum cleaner. Bit of furniture polish should fix the cabs.
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Just for fun I put the tweeters back a few cm and put them in phase with the woofers, without any change to the crossover. Now I havet measured them, but I think they sound even better. Especially pin-pointing and depth of soundstage.
I will build new cabinets for these. I'm a little bit tempted to try dcr after reading Michael Chua's experience. What do think Steve? I'm thinking of making floorstanders and having the tweeters in seperate boxes on top.
I will build new cabinets for these. I'm a little bit tempted to try dcr after reading Michael Chua's experience. What do think Steve? I'm thinking of making floorstanders and having the tweeters in seperate boxes on top.
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Time alignment is an interesting topic. I think you need to sim it to see where it goes.
Easy enough to adjust the point of sound origin in Boxsim for a woofer.
I'm still mulling over what to do with the LIntons. 175mm and 77mm cutouts. 220mm to the sides. Mid-dome, fullranger, waveguide Morel CAT378?
IDK. I have had a great time at MIchael Chua's site; Falcon-II Baffleless Concept Speaker – AmpsLab
I think it's good to just take a break sometimes. 🙂
Easy enough to adjust the point of sound origin in Boxsim for a woofer.
I'm still mulling over what to do with the LIntons. 175mm and 77mm cutouts. 220mm to the sides. Mid-dome, fullranger, waveguide Morel CAT378?
IDK. I have had a great time at MIchael Chua's site; Falcon-II Baffleless Concept Speaker – AmpsLab
I think it's good to just take a break sometimes. 🙂
JPW AP2 crossover coil value?
Hi,
I've got a pair of JPW AP2, and thought I would have a look inside to change the caps and the internal wiring. When I took out the crossover terminals, I realized that one of the previous owners has cut the internal connection between the woofer and the tweeter (see arrows #3 & 4 on the pic.) My understanding is that this is a standard procedure with these speakers, if one is to do bi-wiring.
However, it seems that the smaller coil got disconnected too. On the one end, it is still soldered to the cap following the resistor on the + side (see arrow #2), but the wire is cut on the other end of the coil (arrow #1). As far as I can see, it used to be connected to the - side.
Does anyone have the scematic for the original crossover of the AP2, or at least the value of the coils? I can read the resistor and the capacitor alright, it's just the coil that gives me hard time.
Many thanks!
Hi,
I've got a pair of JPW AP2, and thought I would have a look inside to change the caps and the internal wiring. When I took out the crossover terminals, I realized that one of the previous owners has cut the internal connection between the woofer and the tweeter (see arrows #3 & 4 on the pic.) My understanding is that this is a standard procedure with these speakers, if one is to do bi-wiring.
However, it seems that the smaller coil got disconnected too. On the one end, it is still soldered to the cap following the resistor on the + side (see arrow #2), but the wire is cut on the other end of the coil (arrow #1). As far as I can see, it used to be connected to the - side.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Does anyone have the scematic for the original crossover of the AP2, or at least the value of the coils? I can read the resistor and the capacitor alright, it's just the coil that gives me hard time.
Many thanks!