Any suggestions where to find the 2% Cu solder ZM suggested? I hunted around after ZM post about "Alpha Metals Fluitin Sn60Pb38Cu2", but couldn't find anything I could order online. I've been using Fire Metal from the store up to this point and really like it, but it's been sold out for a while. I have noticed the Fire Metal just really works better than the cheap stuff (60/40) I had grabbed off Amazon years ago.
Don't get me wrong... I have my favorites to be sure.
However, any solder wire intended for electronics (not plumbing) that is not lead free will probably work like a dream.
If you really want to get picky, you can check the wetting tests that professional brands like Kester include with each variety... but...
Cardas Quad is a popular copper-containing solder for "audio" that many seem to like.
However, any solder wire intended for electronics (not plumbing) that is not lead free will probably work like a dream.
If you really want to get picky, you can check the wetting tests that professional brands like Kester include with each variety... but...
Cardas Quad is a popular copper-containing solder for "audio" that many seem to like.
Guess I'll toss out all my measly 63/37
proper solder is not hard to find and buy, especially nowadays
@codyt - ^ I LOVE'S me some #44.
However... for those keeping score at home... and for the folks for whom this thread is intended...
"44 possesses excellent fluxing ability; the flux residues are non-corrosive, non-conductive and do not require removal for most applications under normal conditions of use. IPA will not clean the residues off the surface of the circuit board after the soldering process."
Emphasis added is mine. It's a no-clean solder... AND ... a lot of people don't mind a little residue...
I just wanted to point out that if you do use #44, and you like a nice tidy board (I'm one of those dorks)... you're gonna want to use something with a bit more kick to get it clean.
Edited to add - I guess I should include the source of the quote... It's not just from my experience. https://www.kester.com/DesktopModul...tryId=1072&language=en-US&PortalId=0&TabId=96
However... for those keeping score at home... and for the folks for whom this thread is intended...
"44 possesses excellent fluxing ability; the flux residues are non-corrosive, non-conductive and do not require removal for most applications under normal conditions of use. IPA will not clean the residues off the surface of the circuit board after the soldering process."
Emphasis added is mine. It's a no-clean solder... AND ... a lot of people don't mind a little residue...
I just wanted to point out that if you do use #44, and you like a nice tidy board (I'm one of those dorks)... you're gonna want to use something with a bit more kick to get it clean.
Edited to add - I guess I should include the source of the quote... It's not just from my experience. https://www.kester.com/DesktopModul...tryId=1072&language=en-US&PortalId=0&TabId=96
^ Kudos!
I love #44. My gut tells me the 3+% rosin makes it soooooo buttery nice. I kept seeing a film after cleaning with IPA. A little of the MG Chem stuff works wonders with it (for me).
As with all of this stuff... YMMV...
I still can't get my emissions to match VW's claims though???
I love #44. My gut tells me the 3+% rosin makes it soooooo buttery nice. I kept seeing a film after cleaning with IPA. A little of the MG Chem stuff works wonders with it (for me).
As with all of this stuff... YMMV...
I still can't get my emissions to match VW's claims though???
OH Boy... I can't walk back my claim earlier. The 245 is my mainstay. I think #44 flows better though...
These are my GO-TO's on the bench. I have more... but these are the three that get used most often...
Larger 245 for almost everything.
Smaller 245 for hand-soldering SMD (may try something with a higher % flux though).
Fire Metall for "special stuff". I go through a lot of solder. I don't use it for caps on a PSU as example. I'd go through 6" for one joint.
When I just have to have that smell ... (this and model airplane glue were a big part of my youth )... I break this out ...
Everyone has their own "way", and I'm no expert. I've found that I like a slightly higher temp (than typically recommended) + appropriate (big) tip + a solder with a reasonable % flux that flows... in and out in under 3s-4s per joint with a nice "cone". I like the last of the solder I feed in to be just at that last point that I want to pull the iron away. I don't like using tiny solder for big joints b/c I feel like I'm feeding in 3' at a time.
Anyway... it all works. I just like to fiddle around. Thanks for asking. Still I do love the way that #44 flows....
These are my GO-TO's on the bench. I have more... but these are the three that get used most often...
Larger 245 for almost everything.
Smaller 245 for hand-soldering SMD (may try something with a higher % flux though).
Fire Metall for "special stuff". I go through a lot of solder. I don't use it for caps on a PSU as example. I'd go through 6" for one joint.
When I just have to have that smell ... (this and model airplane glue were a big part of my youth )... I break this out ...
Everyone has their own "way", and I'm no expert. I've found that I like a slightly higher temp (than typically recommended) + appropriate (big) tip + a solder with a reasonable % flux that flows... in and out in under 3s-4s per joint with a nice "cone". I like the last of the solder I feed in to be just at that last point that I want to pull the iron away. I don't like using tiny solder for big joints b/c I feel like I'm feeding in 3' at a time.
Anyway... it all works. I just like to fiddle around. Thanks for asking. Still I do love the way that #44 flows....
I should toss out... 245 (to me) leaves less residue and is easier to clean than #44 (for me)... but for the sake of clarity and completeness...
"The 245 flux residues are non-corrosive, non-conductive and do not require removal in most applications. IPA will not clean the residues off the surface of the circuit board after the soldering process. A saponifier or cleaning agent specifically designed to clean a no-clean flux is required to clean the residues".
I've found (similar to your experience with #44) that if I go after it with a Kimwipe / toothbrush ... that it comes 99% clean (or better) with IPA. I then do one quick wipe with MG Chem 4140 particularly if it's a lot of goop on the board. Is it necessary.... nope... not even a little. Just makes me feel better.
Edited for other anecdotal nonsense - the #44 left a bit of a haze. The #245 residue seems to ball up... When cleaning with IPA.
"The 245 flux residues are non-corrosive, non-conductive and do not require removal in most applications. IPA will not clean the residues off the surface of the circuit board after the soldering process. A saponifier or cleaning agent specifically designed to clean a no-clean flux is required to clean the residues".
I've found (similar to your experience with #44) that if I go after it with a Kimwipe / toothbrush ... that it comes 99% clean (or better) with IPA. I then do one quick wipe with MG Chem 4140 particularly if it's a lot of goop on the board. Is it necessary.... nope... not even a little. Just makes me feel better.
Edited for other anecdotal nonsense - the #44 left a bit of a haze. The #245 residue seems to ball up... When cleaning with IPA.
I've almost pulled the trigger on that one a dozen times!Desoldering with this tool is a dream!
Hakko FR-301
A bit pricey, but if your an avid builder it’s worth every penny.
I've only used flux soldering copper pipes with propane torch.you must decide what are you - novice, or someone with enough mileage to write anything having "strongly suggest" in sentence
now, matter of formulation - "... and it works well without flux, a big plus."
missing word (or not) - "additional"
if you ask anyone who did soldering as part of daily job for any longer period, you'll get replay that any solder wire which needs additional flux application to enable proper soldering (except in extreme case of soldering subpar quality elements as lousy fat wire etc.) is simply POS
reality is that anyone who have a mileage and is not forced to use lead-free soldering wire (from any reason) is simply using good old lead based solder wires, with or without some Cu ...... and every good old solder wire is having rosin core
period. no possible exceptions - simply because exceptions (wire without rosin core) are really intended for different applications
as I said - there are much more useful topics worthy of obsessing
soldering is important, but really basic thing anyone wanting to do some electronics must learn how to do
Russellc
Dump the history after each use 😂I hope my wife doesn't see my browser history!
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