https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR-301...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583795273751435&psc=1
Not that I'm interested
Not that I'm interested
, but wonder if there is an opportunity for a Group Buy?
Be careful with this listing, the price is too good to be true.
In my tool buying experiences, Hakko products seem to be priced similarly from authorized suppliers.
The Amazon listing says "Sold by Thunder Japan" which is in Shizuoka, Japan, so this could be grey market goods.
Appears to have only a 30 day return warranty. There are complaints that US customers are sent the 100V Japanese version,
which does not work properly on US 120V. Be careful, the vacuum motor could be damaged.
Appears to have only a 30 day return warranty. There are complaints that US customers are sent the 100V Japanese version,
which does not work properly on US 120V. Be careful, the vacuum motor could be damaged.
With surveillance industry gear, I've found genuine product for sale on Amazon thats usually only available through authorized channels. In cases I'm familiar with, manufacturers have declined to honor warranties for these purchases. I rarely roll dice when any significant outlay is at hand.
Not counterfeit. They are genuine, but are grey market 100V units intended for Japan.
Don't buy them unless you intend to step down the line voltage to 100V.
Amazon has done stuff like this before with Fluke DVMs, which also had no warranty.
The listed address doesn't parse in Google maps. Hmm...
Furthermore, I wouldn't trust buying my solder gear from a seller whose store also carries dozens of anime character figurines, pen packs, and hair gel.
Jus' sayin'.
Kind regards,
Drew
Randomly just tossing out a good tool I've come across through a fellow coworkers recommendation and now use regularly...
I use these zip tie tensioners/flush-cutters anytime I'm a zip tie-ing. They provide an adjustable and consistent tension for ever zip and cut them flush as well! Kinda spendy at $25, but I'd go with the all metal "RV Rhodes" brand if you are gonna spend the money. I have two sets and they work great. I recommend if you're looking for a good tool.
I use these zip tie tensioners/flush-cutters anytime I'm a zip tie-ing. They provide an adjustable and consistent tension for ever zip and cut them flush as well! Kinda spendy at $25, but I'd go with the all metal "RV Rhodes" brand if you are gonna spend the money. I have two sets and they work great. I recommend if you're looking for a good tool.
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For those considering one...
FYI, I strongly recommend practicing using various tips (get an assortment of hole diameters) and temperatures on boards that don't matter with parts you don't mind losing ... Get the proper cleaning rods also. IMO, they should come with the tips, but you can easily find substitutes.
You can save a project ... or, easily destroy things. It's a fabulous tool, but it's not just as easy (every time) as to just fire it up and pull the trigger. However, once you get a few tips and settings dialed in... oh, boy is it ever-so nice to have.
Also... for those with irons with interchangeable tips that don't necessarily want to spend the dough on something like this... a nice wide chisel or two (something that spans all three pins at once) can be wonderful for removing 3-pin critters.
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For those considering one...
FYI, I strongly recommend practicing using various tips (get an assortment of hole diameters) and temperatures on boards that don't matter with parts you don't mind losing ... Get the proper cleaning rods also. IMO, they should come with the tips, but you can easily find substitutes.
You can save a project ... or, easily destroy things. It's a fabulous tool, but it's not just as easy (every time) as to just fire it up and pull the trigger. However, once you get a few tips and settings dialed in... oh, boy is it ever-so nice to have.
Also... for those with irons with interchangeable tips that don't necessarily want to spend the dough on something like this... a nice wide chisel or two (something that spans all three pins at once) can be wonderful for removing 3-pin critters.
I find that it's useful to have a really powerful soldering iron for those times when I'm soldering large masses of metal like speaker terminals and other connectors. I have an old 80 watt Weller iron which I use for those occasions and it just makes life easy. The joint is done in 3 seconds and the parts don't get overheated.
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It's covered over, and over, and over, and over in multiple threads... but... now is as good a time as any for a reminder...
Not directed at / toward T4B... just in general for everyone that may not know, or may appreciate a reminder.
FAKES ARE EVERYWHERE.
It's likely not worth the risk to buy ANY parts from unverified on-line suppliers, nevertheless active devices critical to the operation of the project.
If you don't know how to check for yourself if the parts are 100% authentic and/or at the very least will function properly in the circuit, then it's NEVER worth the risk (IMO).
I understand that some builds are tempting... everyone else got to build it... I want to build it...
I understand that buying parts (if they're even available) from reputable suppliers can be expensive...
I understand the thinking around the treasure hunt and thinking that you've found that one, last honest supplier that's just unloading some parts at an unbelievably low price or 'just doesn't realize what they've got'.
I understand the thinking that surely no-one would go to the trouble of counterfeiting 'inexpensive' parts that are still somewhat readily available and/or even still manufactured and sold through reputable suppliers...
Don't... just don't... or at least make sure you can get your money back if when you test them, they're not what you expected.
Some on-line suppliers are reputable and sell through auction sites and other places that are sometimes known for also selling counterfeit parts. Ask around. Do some due diligence. I don't want to paint everyone that sells through certain websites with the same brush.
Not directed at / toward T4B... just in general for everyone that may not know, or may appreciate a reminder.
FAKES ARE EVERYWHERE.
It's likely not worth the risk to buy ANY parts from unverified on-line suppliers, nevertheless active devices critical to the operation of the project.
If you don't know how to check for yourself if the parts are 100% authentic and/or at the very least will function properly in the circuit, then it's NEVER worth the risk (IMO).
I understand that some builds are tempting... everyone else got to build it... I want to build it...
I understand that buying parts (if they're even available) from reputable suppliers can be expensive...
I understand the thinking around the treasure hunt and thinking that you've found that one, last honest supplier that's just unloading some parts at an unbelievably low price or 'just doesn't realize what they've got'.
I understand the thinking that surely no-one would go to the trouble of counterfeiting 'inexpensive' parts that are still somewhat readily available and/or even still manufactured and sold through reputable suppliers...
Don't... just don't... or at least make sure you can get your money back if when you test them, they're not what you expected.
Some on-line suppliers are reputable and sell through auction sites and other places that are sometimes known for also selling counterfeit parts. Ask around. Do some due diligence. I don't want to paint everyone that sells through certain websites with the same brush.
Allow me to give an example of counterfeiting of 'inexpensive' parts. Some of us have been trying to help a member with an AJ build, and the ZTX450/ZTX550 he got from a certain auction site are fakes. These are current parts that have been in production for decades...
My 2 cents CAD (~1.5 cents USD)
My 2 cents CAD (~1.5 cents USD)