Any suggestions where to find the 2% Cu solder ZM suggested? I hunted around after ZM post about "Alpha Metals Fluitin Sn60Pb38Cu2", but couldn't find anything I could order online. I've been using Fire Metal from the store up to this point and really like it, but it's been sold out for a while. I have noticed the Fire Metal just really works better than the cheap stuff (60/40) I had grabbed off Amazon years ago.
Don't get me wrong... I have my favorites to be sure.
However, any solder wire intended for electronics (not plumbing) that is not lead free will probably work like a dream.
If you really want to get picky, you can check the wetting tests that professional brands like Kester include with each variety... but...
Cardas Quad is a popular copper-containing solder for "audio" that many seem to like.
However, any solder wire intended for electronics (not plumbing) that is not lead free will probably work like a dream.
If you really want to get picky, you can check the wetting tests that professional brands like Kester include with each variety... but...
Cardas Quad is a popular copper-containing solder for "audio" that many seem to like.
@codyt - ^ I LOVE'S me some #44. 
However... for those keeping score at home... and for the folks for whom this thread is intended...
"44 possesses excellent fluxing ability; the flux residues are non-corrosive, non-conductive and do not require removal for most applications under normal conditions of use. IPA will not clean the residues off the surface of the circuit board after the soldering process."
Emphasis added is mine. It's a no-clean solder... AND ... a lot of people don't mind a little residue...
I just wanted to point out that if you do use #44, and you like a nice tidy board (I'm one of those dorks)... you're gonna want to use something with a bit more kick to get it clean.
Edited to add - I guess I should include the source of the quote... It's not just from my experience. https://www.kester.com/DesktopModul...tryId=1072&language=en-US&PortalId=0&TabId=96
However... for those keeping score at home... and for the folks for whom this thread is intended...
"44 possesses excellent fluxing ability; the flux residues are non-corrosive, non-conductive and do not require removal for most applications under normal conditions of use. IPA will not clean the residues off the surface of the circuit board after the soldering process."
Emphasis added is mine. It's a no-clean solder... AND ... a lot of people don't mind a little residue...
I just wanted to point out that if you do use #44, and you like a nice tidy board (I'm one of those dorks)... you're gonna want to use something with a bit more kick to get it clean.
Edited to add - I guess I should include the source of the quote... It's not just from my experience. https://www.kester.com/DesktopModul...tryId=1072&language=en-US&PortalId=0&TabId=96
OH Boy... I can't walk back my claim earlier. The 245 is my mainstay. I think #44 flows better though...
These are my GO-TO's on the bench. I have more... but these are the three that get used most often...
Larger 245 for almost everything.
Smaller 245 for hand-soldering SMD (may try something with a higher % flux though).
Fire Metall for "special stuff". I go through a lot of solder. I don't use it for caps on a PSU as example. I'd go through 6" for one joint.
When I just have to have that smell ... (this and model airplane glue were a big part of my youth
)... I break this out ...
Everyone has their own "way", and I'm no expert. I've found that I like a slightly higher temp (than typically recommended) + appropriate (big) tip + a solder with a reasonable % flux that flows... in and out in under 3s-4s per joint with a nice "cone". I like the last of the solder I feed in to be just at that last point that I want to pull the iron away. I don't like using tiny solder for big joints b/c I feel like I'm feeding in 3' at a time.
Anyway... it all works. I just like to fiddle around. Thanks for asking. Still I do love the way that #44 flows....
These are my GO-TO's on the bench. I have more... but these are the three that get used most often...
Larger 245 for almost everything.
Smaller 245 for hand-soldering SMD (may try something with a higher % flux though).
Fire Metall for "special stuff". I go through a lot of solder. I don't use it for caps on a PSU as example. I'd go through 6" for one joint.
When I just have to have that smell ... (this and model airplane glue were a big part of my youth
)... I break this out ...
Everyone has their own "way", and I'm no expert. I've found that I like a slightly higher temp (than typically recommended) + appropriate (big) tip + a solder with a reasonable % flux that flows... in and out in under 3s-4s per joint with a nice "cone". I like the last of the solder I feed in to be just at that last point that I want to pull the iron away. I don't like using tiny solder for big joints b/c I feel like I'm feeding in 3' at a time.
Anyway... it all works. I just like to fiddle around. Thanks for asking. Still I do love the way that #44 flows....
I should toss out... 245 (to me) leaves less residue and is easier to clean than #44 (for me)... but for the sake of clarity and completeness...
"The 245 flux residues are non-corrosive, non-conductive and do not require removal in most applications. IPA will not clean the residues off the surface of the circuit board after the soldering process. A saponifier or cleaning agent specifically designed to clean a no-clean flux is required to clean the residues".
I've found (similar to your experience with #44) that if I go after it with a Kimwipe / toothbrush ... that it comes 99% clean (or better) with IPA. I then do one quick wipe with MG Chem 4140 particularly if it's a lot of goop on the board. Is it necessary.... nope... not even a little. Just makes me feel better.
Edited for other anecdotal nonsense - the #44 left a bit of a haze. The #245 residue seems to ball up... When cleaning with IPA.
"The 245 flux residues are non-corrosive, non-conductive and do not require removal in most applications. IPA will not clean the residues off the surface of the circuit board after the soldering process. A saponifier or cleaning agent specifically designed to clean a no-clean flux is required to clean the residues".
I've found (similar to your experience with #44) that if I go after it with a Kimwipe / toothbrush ... that it comes 99% clean (or better) with IPA. I then do one quick wipe with MG Chem 4140 particularly if it's a lot of goop on the board. Is it necessary.... nope... not even a little. Just makes me feel better.
Edited for other anecdotal nonsense - the #44 left a bit of a haze. The #245 residue seems to ball up... When cleaning with IPA.