I just got my electric bill.... HVAC is all electric..... 25 dollars for the month. Aint solar grand? Granted i am not there BUT I do have a pool pump running hours per day and a few other things.... never been that low before solar. I also have 6 inch walls, lots of insulation etc etc.
However, for the almost 3 months i have been in my Asia condo.... the costs are super low. $3 for a water bill? Even with A/C running 24/7 the electric bill is like $80. etc.
THx-RNMarsh
However, for the almost 3 months i have been in my Asia condo.... the costs are super low. $3 for a water bill? Even with A/C running 24/7 the electric bill is like $80. etc.
THx-RNMarsh
I would be interested in seeing that if you have a copy.
Nelson, I only have simplified schematic (no values) of that DAC's I/V stage in one of the Musen to Jikken mags that I have in storage. If needed, I can dig it out, but it might take some time.
Best,
P.S.Low pass filter was C-L-C
.JPG)
She was too. 
( http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/86528-increasing-bias-amps-2.html#post1008166 ww2=ww1, typo)
( http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/86528-increasing-bias-amps-2.html#post1008166 ww2=ww1, typo)
I have a small design problem that needs some expert advise.
I need a two-terminal, low-noise, CCS of around 1~4µA (adjustable through e.g. a resistor).
Voltage across the CCS is about 9V and will see a swing of +/-5V.
I guess I could have just use a 5Meg resistor.
It will not be truly constant current, and probably quite noisy.
Alternatively I can use a JFET (e.g. 2SK117) and degenerate to 2µA (Rsource ~ 390k).
But would that have lower noise and higher dynamic impedance ?
Thanks in advance,
Patrick
I need a two-terminal, low-noise, CCS of around 1~4µA (adjustable through e.g. a resistor).
Voltage across the CCS is about 9V and will see a swing of +/-5V.
I guess I could have just use a 5Meg resistor.
It will not be truly constant current, and probably quite noisy.
Alternatively I can use a JFET (e.g. 2SK117) and degenerate to 2µA (Rsource ~ 390k).
But would that have lower noise and higher dynamic impedance ?
Thanks in advance,
Patrick
I am thrifty where i can be so that i can spend even more on my interests. My only real concern is how to budget so that I spend every last penny by my last day on earth.
-RNM
For the same delta voltage, resistors are always quieter than current generators. But if you need the high impedance at low frequencies, a slightly longer channel and source-ballasted JFET should be reasonably good. Use the smallest geometry device that you can find if the capacitance needs to be small.
You can find some ideas here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/197104-improved-2w-current-sources-ii.html
Otherwise, you can also use this: electronically controllable without contact, low noise, compliance from 0.6V to 60V, ultimate impedance of 300 meg:
Here, it is set at 2.5µA
Attachments
That is difficult.
When you arrive at a solution post it in a new Thread please.
The trouble with statisticas of weathar temps unfrtunately tells only half of the story. Belgrade sits in the middle of the area where continental and Mediterranean climates meet, and on the confluence of two largest rivers in the Balkans. Plenty of evaporating water in the summer. When I was a kid, summer temps were 31-32 deg. C, but by now this has gone up to 38-39 deg, C (app. 97-98 deg. F). Odd peaks go up to 44 deg.C (app. 110 F).
However, the general environment is asphalt and concrete, and they tend to accumulate heat rather well. This creates a subjective feeling of being hotter than it really is.
I live in an apartment on the top (8th) floor. Above me is the concrete flat roof of the buliding, and I am on a corner, so two of my four walls as well as the cieling and on direct sunlight from dawn to about 5 PM. This raises my room temp to 44 deg. C (app, 110 deg. F) or a bit more easily on quite average summer days. Under those circumstances, life is, to say the least, damn hard without an air con. The architecture of the apartment is such that I need two air cons working 24/7 to keep the apartment at something like 24 deg. C (app. 75 deg. F)
So, if I want my summer power bills to saty under the $100 mark per momth, I needed to do two things: 1) change all my light bulbs for energy saving ones, some gas, some LED, and 2) crefully reserach the air con market for energy efficiency in the 12,000 BTU class. I did that, and am currently running a Galantz (Chinese brand) unit in my room and a Daikin in another room. That did the trick, especially in case of the Daikin.
They are a Japanese manufacturer who makse ONLY air cons, from small 9,000 BTU units for home to gigantic centraized systems good for entire hotel buildings. Thus, they are specialized and not surprisingly they offer the best, or among the very best efficiency units on the market. If you're in the market for air cons, I strongly suggest you look up Daikin in your search. Also, until I bought the Daikin, I never knew it was possible for an air con to be that silent in normal mode, a true audiophile model, does not interfere with you music.
However, the general environment is asphalt and concrete, and they tend to accumulate heat rather well. This creates a subjective feeling of being hotter than it really is.
I live in an apartment on the top (8th) floor. Above me is the concrete flat roof of the buliding, and I am on a corner, so two of my four walls as well as the cieling and on direct sunlight from dawn to about 5 PM. This raises my room temp to 44 deg. C (app, 110 deg. F) or a bit more easily on quite average summer days. Under those circumstances, life is, to say the least, damn hard without an air con. The architecture of the apartment is such that I need two air cons working 24/7 to keep the apartment at something like 24 deg. C (app. 75 deg. F)
So, if I want my summer power bills to saty under the $100 mark per momth, I needed to do two things: 1) change all my light bulbs for energy saving ones, some gas, some LED, and 2) crefully reserach the air con market for energy efficiency in the 12,000 BTU class. I did that, and am currently running a Galantz (Chinese brand) unit in my room and a Daikin in another room. That did the trick, especially in case of the Daikin.
They are a Japanese manufacturer who makse ONLY air cons, from small 9,000 BTU units for home to gigantic centraized systems good for entire hotel buildings. Thus, they are specialized and not surprisingly they offer the best, or among the very best efficiency units on the market. If you're in the market for air cons, I strongly suggest you look up Daikin in your search. Also, until I bought the Daikin, I never knew it was possible for an air con to be that silent in normal mode, a true audiophile model, does not interfere with you music.
......steel barred windows and a 4m high perimeter wall perhaps?
........ mine too! [10 year sentence for peeking during a DBT
]The old bit on the left is my listening room - and family room, a converted farm building. behind the external wall is a 6" blockwork inner wall with 10" stand-offs to a plasterboard finish. A fortune's worth of 8" double foil closed cell insulation board behind that. The roof has 6" similar board between the roof timbers and 18" fibre over the ceiling. A very easy room to keep very warm in the coldest weather. It is almost too damped sound wise and has a couple of nasty standing wave frequencies, tamed by 1" wool felt behind many pictures. The jail wall was built when we moved here. New stone from a local quarry hand split and built by a local mason.
Attachments
Same here, I lived in an apartment at the top level of a building in The Hague during university years.
Flat roof, no insulation, single glazed, I lived in trailer-park dress during the summer months.
The amps I built back then had an A/AB quiescent switch, without it I would have gone bananas in june/july/august.
It is not subjective, the asphalt/concrete will go way hotter than ambient air, think walking barefoot on sand at the beach. Concrete cities accumulate a huge amount of energy during sunlight hours. A lifted house on Curaçao remains a lot cooler than a regular one, not just because of the wind blowing through open doors/windows, but the house itself becomes a fan-blown heatsink.
The fanciest are on top of a hill And raised (1m thick and sand-filled walls). Overthere, life is All about wind, the reason why everything has wind-related names. Right side is called the upwind area (Banda Ariba), left side is downwind (Band' Abao)
Attachments
Last edited:
Very nice
And the panels are a good aesthetic match too, unlike some of the monstrosities that often seem to grow on roofs around here.
And not during the winter either tbh. Not a fan or believer that Class A is a requirement for good audio.
We do get hot spells (always accompanied with high humidity) where a little air con would be good. I think this summer we could count on one hand the days that have been over 20C air temperature.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.