Yes, keep it at the same distance. 1 meter away. (5 feet is an older standard that you could use).
That will give us an idea of the relative loudness of each section separately and own its own. Don't use any EQ or level changes. For the horn, start your sweep at 300Hz in REW. Check by playing on the woofer section that it really is starting at 300Hz! Protect your compression driver. If in doubt start with very low volume levels.
I did the measurements through the crossover. Should I do them with the drivers on their own?
Sorry, for some reason I didn't see your posted measurements when I wrote my last post.
Those are helpful, but doing them without the crossover would be even better.
In REW you can turn off the Mic calibration plot, we don't need to see it now. Also try 1/6th octave smoothing. The bass is pretty hot, that's for sure!
Those are helpful, but doing them without the crossover would be even better.
In REW you can turn off the Mic calibration plot, we don't need to see it now. Also try 1/6th octave smoothing. The bass is pretty hot, that's for sure!
If you export the measurements as FRD or text files you can post them here. That way we can have a look at them ourselves in REW. In that case don't use smoothing, we can apply it in REW.
I gave this a go, but couldn't figure out how to do it. I'll do a bit of googling and figure it out.
Thanks for the graphs tizman. Well plotted. 
As suspected, your bass bin has a big hump in the middle. It doesn't go very high or very low, actually. You have placed the cross-hair marker right where the bass hump is. The 511 is looking pretty good. I agree with Glyph that it should be a bit louder, but at least its shape is good.
With responses like that you will need to resort to EQ on the woofer, at least. That could be tricky in passive EQ, but we can figure it out. Basically you want to flatten the bass response centered on the 250Hz hump. Is it an 8 ohm woofer?
It looks like you don't have much wiggle room for your crossover as there isn't much overlap between the section. And you may be happy with the falling response of the horn, but flattening the droop is likely going to be needed.
As suspected, your bass bin has a big hump in the middle. It doesn't go very high or very low, actually. You have placed the cross-hair marker right where the bass hump is. The 511 is looking pretty good. I agree with Glyph that it should be a bit louder, but at least its shape is good.With responses like that you will need to resort to EQ on the woofer, at least. That could be tricky in passive EQ, but we can figure it out. Basically you want to flatten the bass response centered on the 250Hz hump. Is it an 8 ohm woofer?
It looks like you don't have much wiggle room for your crossover as there isn't much overlap between the section. And you may be happy with the falling response of the horn, but flattening the droop is likely going to be needed.
Yep ! + 1 , 
Acoustic solutions to acoustic problems!
Seal off the vent and gap the driver as required to both unload the horn into just a WG and tune the cab.
All these type woofer horn combos need HF CD horn EQ [RLC network] to replace the matching impedance DF = 1 SET amps with variable DF tone controls used to 'voice' the originals. Once done right and dialed into the room to 'flat' from whatever cab tuning chosen to ~12.5 kHz, a stereo system should be ~99 dB/W/m eff., so outboard EQ will be required for top end 'air', the few instruments with extreme 'pierce'.
GM
Doing it acoustically would certainly be best. Having a look at the Kappa datasheets, the measured response is not too surprising. If the bass cabinet and woofer can be better tuned, that's the road to follow.
I tried that, but couldn’t figure out where it went afterwards. I’ll give it another go.
Doing it acoustically would certainly be best. Having a look at the Kappa datasheets, the measured response is not too surprising. If the bass cabinet and woofer can be better tuned, that's the road to follow.
I’m not sure how I would tune the FH-1 cabinet other than doing so through the crossover. At this point, using the Riggle version of the the Hiraga schematic, which adds a L-Pad at the output, the L-Pad has no function. I could try rewiring the L-Pad so that it is at the output of the LF section instead, or leave it there and add a fixed L-Pad to bring down the output of the lLF section. Using the existing Hiraga crossover that I have, I tried bypassing the 12 Ohm resistor in the HF shaping LCR filter, and it increased the overall HF output by about 3DB. For clarity, I use SET amps mostly, and the last combined measurement of the raw drivers was done with one.
After you click export you should get a window come up where you choose the folder to save to and the file name you want. Sometimes it's behind the main REW window so minimise REW and you should see it.
"The amp I am currently using is a single ended EL84 triode connected amp"
The woofer you are using is a popular replacement for the Black Widow. I am wondering if the Kappa 15C is new, if so it needs breaking in. A small tube amp will not do this.
The woofer you are using is a popular replacement for the Black Widow. I am wondering if the Kappa 15C is new, if so it needs breaking in. A small tube amp will not do this.
