jbell's set of four tapped horns

Two pounds of $*&% in a one pound bag

Hi Ben,

The 18 will fit with no mods other than enlarging the hole. JBell's ring would
probably work too, but it would create a small chamber (the speaker cone
volume) that could be simmed in Akabak. Likely no problems. To make it fit
a little easier, I could tweak the layout to give you another inch.

Some other designs have shown the speaker firing thru a restricted baffle,
can anyone cast any light on the effect of this variation?

Doubling the power might also require some bracing ... we won't know 'til
someone tries it.
 
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Hi jbell. I want to build 2 of your boxes, but in photos your boxes are different that in schematics what i found in this forum, can u put in forum the final internal layout?

I don't understand your question. Post#38 has the cad drawing that don did, and post#6 second picture shows the internals just before putting on the 2nd side. They correspond exactly. The only thing not shown in cad drawings are the 2 internal braces I put in.
 
Welcome XAero

Hi XAero: ex-aerospace?
JBells tapped horn is the one on post #38. ScreamersUSA, Jim Bell, and
several others have modified the design, but the original is the easiest to
build.

Jim: the front chamber ... in HornResp Vtc & Atc creates a LP filter. I had
tried it 2 years ago, and forgot about it !!!

Ben: Did you modify the plans or add any bracing? How did it go together?
 
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Post #264

Hi Don,

The front chamber is a legitimate part of quite a few tapped horn designs, and just because in many cases it does not seem to affect the response much does not mean it should not be expressed in the simulation. It very often makes quite a difference in the impulse response. It is also quite important in designs that couple multiple drivers to one horn. Even going back to the original "Tower of Power", the DTS-20, you will find a front chamber.

Regards,
 
GM, with reference to the CAD drawing in post #38, the internal panels are shown as 24" but the side view does not show the top and bottom panels to be between the side panel. The comment in the sim says 25x36x48 whereas 25.5" is what it should be. May be these are small confusions that may arise for someone who wants to build jbells TH using 3015LF.

Due to the size and the lack of Harmonic Distortion, I built 6 double 15 BR cabs. 4 are sufficient in outdoor use most of the times even for crowds of upto 2000 people. I used 6 triagular ports per cab, double driver mounting front panels and heavy bracing. The triangular ports provide part of the bracing; the bass is very tight and goes sufficiently low, hardly anything can be heard at the rear of the stack and the harmonic distortion adds grunt to the bass, which is what people want to hear.

Nevertheless, I am still toying with the idea of building THs some day.
 
indoor measurements

Unfortunately, the origin of the big TH cabinet came about because of indoor measurements....
(couldn't resist....)

I'll be patient, raining here too....

In that case, what better comparison could we possibly have? I'd rather not be lynched for posting them elsewhere though.

As already mentioned, the indoor directionality will be a most interesting point to observe.

Regards, Ben
 
In that case, what better comparison could we possibly have? I'd rather not be lynched for posting them elsewhere though.

As already mentioned, the indoor directionality will be a most interesting point to observe.

Regards, Ben

Ask scott about the kitchen staff wanting to lynch him when he turned is subs toward the kitchen... a few degrees to the right, and things got spicy !! They also sound different on their sides, vs standing up.
 
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According to some measurements here it seems a standing sub radiates more up and down, since there was 3dB more SPL in half space than in free space. I hope on its side it would provide a wide sweet spot horizontally while not interacting as much with the room.

I'm very intereseted in the directivity of these horns! I'd like to combine one with an open baffle speaker too. 🙂
 
Inquires

Jim:
It's gotten very interesting since Ben's report.
( I've been getting numerous questions about plans )
I've got to commend the progress you, Mike P, Scott, and the rest of those here who each found a TH solution for their particular needs.
Because of the extensive number of posts in this and in Pro Sound TH thread it is not easy to keep the designs straight.

Syd

BTW: Happy belated Bday Davy G ( yer still 13 years younger than me )
 
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Gig on May 29

One of the JBell Big TH subwoofers has been collected by a friend who is doing a corporate gig in 9 days time.

Normally we would use a V-plated, wall loaded pair of T 36.

Will let you all know how it goes.


I have pics of the subs, but can't upload, due to website restrictions at work. Would anyone be so kind as to volunteer and let me email them 5 pics for them to add to the thread?

Regards, Ben
 
One of the JBell Big TH subwoofers has been collected by a friend who is doing a corporate gig in 9 days time.
Normally we would use a V-plated, wall loaded pair of T 36.
Will let you all know how it goes.
I have pics of the subs, but can't upload, due to website restrictions at work. Would anyone be so kind as to volunteer and let me email them 5 pics for them to add to the thread?
Regards, Ben

This will be a learning experience -- since you've been 'trained' to HAVING to find a corner and v-plate. The TH with it's directionality, doesn't work the same... If you have a corner, great, if not -- don't sweat it. If you do have a corner you want to use, put it in the corner facing out standing upright. What you may end up with assuming a pair of tops on stands, is to put the sub on it's side, between the tops. (like in front of a dj table) This will keep you from having to delay tops to match sub as a bonus.

This is obviously all subject to the room -- it dominates.

word of warning, find out what direction the kitchen is.... and don't aim there...
 
Hey guys I just built 2 of JBells large TH subs and I need a little input on settings for these. what voltage should I limit them and whats the best HPF and LPF x-over settings for these?
I built them just like Jims with the triange supports except I swiss cheezed the supports with a 2 inch hole saw.
BTW Ben nice job on that sub. looks outstanding.

any help would be great.

Thanks Guys...
Shawn
 
Hey guys I just built 2 of JBells large TH subs and I need a little input on settings for these. what voltage should I limit them and whats the best HPF and LPF x-over settings for these?
I built them just like Jims with the triange supports except I swiss cheezed the supports with a 2 inch hole saw.
BTW Ben nice job on that sub. looks outstanding.

any help would be great.

Thanks Guys...
Shawn

If you have a driverack or dcx2496:

HPF LR 48db/oct 38hz
LPF LR 24db/oct 90hz

Tops
HPF LR 24db/oct 100hz.

You are good up through 56volts easily..
 
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Is there by chance a handy walk-through for that?

My dcx2496 makes me feel inadequate and confused 🙁

Are there any threads explaining how to set high pass, low pass, limiter, etc. on these commonly used pieces of hardware?

I know what needs setting, but not how to set it.

But at least I have managed to get the pink noise and RTA mic working 🙂

Regards, Ben

PS. wait a moment, do I have the DEQ or DCX? 😕
 
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