Didn't know you had a TH (or forgot); these are the speakers?
QTX Sound 6.5" Woofer with Kevlar cone 902.423
Did you look at them in WidISD? That shouldn't be hard.
btw, I think my Iso days are over, unless there is some great design out there that I'm missing out on.
I like the more efficient designs and the fact the amps run cooler. Using 6.5 woofers in a Iso might not work well also, just too small a cone to work with.
QTX Sound 6.5" Woofer with Kevlar cone 902.423
Did you look at them in WidISD? That shouldn't be hard.
btw, I think my Iso days are over, unless there is some great design out there that I'm missing out on.
I like the more efficient designs and the fact the amps run cooler. Using 6.5 woofers in a Iso might not work well also, just too small a cone to work with.
yeah they're the woofers i have.Did you look at them in WidISD? That shouldn't be hard.
btw, I think my Iso days are over, unless there is some great design out there that I'm missing out on.
I like the more efficient designs and the fact the amps run cooler. Using 6.5 woofers in a Iso might not work well also, just too small a cone to work with
and i dont have widISD, i downloaded it once but just couldnt get to grips with it lol, if an isobaric isnt the way to go i'll do something else
I would try the WinISD again, sounds like you were almost there.....
If you put in too many parameters, you'll get error windows.
E.g. "Qes" in Driver Editor, leave that blank, let the program calculate it.
If you type in the box and the program disagrees, it goes crazy
If that does happens, simply try again.
If you put in too many parameters, you'll get error windows.
E.g. "Qes" in Driver Editor, leave that blank, let the program calculate it.
If you type in the box and the program disagrees, it goes crazy
If that does happens, simply try again.
yeah they're the woofers i have.
and i dont have widISD, i downloaded it once but just couldnt get to grips with it lol, if an isobaric isnt the way to go i'll do something else
Hi 2009thread1,
You need the T/S parameters for the driver, the information in the link from Post #341 is not sufficient to simulate anything from.
Regards
You need the T/S parameters for the driver, the information in the link from Post #341 is not sufficient to simulate anything from.
Regards
i know, i did have them but i bought them nearly a year ago so they've gone walk abouts lolyou need the T/S parameters for the driver, the information in the link from Post #341 is not sufficient to simulate anything from.
🙁 At that price per (parts express) sub I was going to get a few just for fun. All gone. o well. Next Time.
Cool thread though. nice project.
Cool thread though. nice project.
I would try the WinISD again, sounds like you were almost there.....
If you put in too many parameters, you'll get error windows.
E.g. "Qes" in Driver Editor, leave that blank, let the program calculate it.
If you type in the box and the program disagrees, it goes crazy
If that does happens, simply try again.
ive given up on the diy box's for a while, but ive just bi-wired my q acoustics 2020 with some rega quattro cable, sounds even better now
The 6.5" T-TQWTs have a unique (detailed) sound and still loving them.
What a deal:$25 sheet of MDF, and 4 - $8 woofers (PE).
I do need to build one more "standing" box (4 woofers left).
What a deal:$25 sheet of MDF, and 4 - $8 woofers (PE).
I do need to build one more "standing" box (4 woofers left).
Odougbo, do you know much about car subwoofers ? i need some help 🙂The 6.5" T-TQWTs have a unique (detailed) sound and still loving them.
What a deal:$25 sheet of MDF, and 4 - $8 woofers (PE).
I do need to build one more "standing" box (4 woofers left).
More than some less than others (way less than others on here).
Most of the new subs supply plans or an example box.
Maybe one of the engineers will jump in and help you: what's the question?
Most of the new subs supply plans or an example box.
Maybe one of the engineers will jump in and help you: what's the question?

Odougbo, do you know much about car subwoofers ? i need some help 🙂
Only difference betwen a home and car sub is that most people plan into the design the bass lift that occurs beelow about 80hz in most cars. It amounts to approx 12db per octave boost below a turnover frequency equal to tle longest dimension of the intreior of the cabin. Below this frequency the car exibits a pressure response.
What are your design goals?
What are your design goals?
im going to buy an infinity kappa 120.9w soon, i'll use it in my room for a few months but then put it in my car, so im after a nice box design lolMore than some less than others (way less than others on here).
Most of the new subs supply plans or an example box.
Maybe one of the engineers will jump in and help you: what's the question?
uum, tuned to 30hz, maybe lower if possible and i dont want a huge box ?Only difference betwen a home and car sub is that most people plan into the design the bass lift that occurs beelow about 80hz in most cars. It amounts to approx 12db per octave boost below a turnover frequency equal to tle longest dimension of the intreior of the cabin. Below this frequency the car exibits a pressure response.
What are your design goals?
based on published specs with 4 ohm wiring an optimal sealed box has a f3 of 40 hz and a volume of 1.4 cubes.
A vented box of 2.96 cubes with a vent 4" by 17" will tune it to 23.78hz.
What sound goals do you have? loud!!! clean?
Do you want to wince every time a 30hz dubstep beat hits?
What vehicle?
How much power are you feeding this thing?
If you go vented the box will unload below tuning, id either keep the low tuning or go sealed.
The vented box will sound louder below 40 hz which is where most people like more oomph.
A vented box of 2.96 cubes with a vent 4" by 17" will tune it to 23.78hz.
What sound goals do you have? loud!!! clean?
Do you want to wince every time a 30hz dubstep beat hits?
What vehicle?
How much power are you feeding this thing?
If you go vented the box will unload below tuning, id either keep the low tuning or go sealed.
The vented box will sound louder below 40 hz which is where most people like more oomph.
okay, so i'd like it to be clean sounding, but loud at the same time, i'd be using it in my room for some time untill i got a car and then it would go in the car, i'd give it 350watts rms, maybe slightly more depending on what amps are availablebased on published specs with 4 ohm wiring an optimal sealed box has a f3 of 40 hz and a volume of 1.4 cubes.
A vented box of 2.96 cubes with a vent 4" by 17" will tune it to 23.78hz.
What sound goals do you have? loud!!! clean?
Do you want to wince every time a 30hz dubstep beat hits?
What vehicle?
How much power are you feeding this thing?
If you go vented the box will unload below tuning, id either keep the low tuning or go sealed.
The vented box will sound louder below 40 hz which is where most people like more oomph.
Most music, aside from bass music, is okay with the vented box, and the group delay(distortion) is below the levels you will notice within the bandwidth of this vented enclosure.
What are the dimensions inside the trunk where the box will go.
What are the dimensions inside the trunk where the box will go.
im not too sure yet as i dont have a car, but i was thinking about 13" high, 24-26" wide and 10-15" deep, some where around those figuresWhat are the dimensions inside the trunk where the box will go
Looks like a sealed box then. Thos dimensions leave a 1.2 cu ft box using. 75" material. Youll still get good loud bass in the car. And clean too. I just wont whomp like the vented box would.
what size would it have to be for a vented box ?Looks like a sealed box then. Thos dimensions leave a 1.2 cu ft box using. 75" material. Youll still get good loud bass in the car. And clean too. I just wont whomp like the vented box would
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