😕 oh..I want a ported box and a F3 of about 30Hz-40Hz
It seems that the main problem is that I have not found any driver with a resonant frequency of about 10Hz..

may be you type something wrong in online calculator..
may be it will be better to find some finished project..
Don't think I've ever hear a 21" for home use. But I have heard several rigs that used single or double 18s per side. Double 18" is about 40% more cone area than a single 21".
They don't move "too much" air. Sure do give clean bass, tho.
No problem mating them to a 15, 12 or 10 inch midrange.
They don't move "too much" air. Sure do give clean bass, tho.
No problem mating them to a 15, 12 or 10 inch midrange.
Erik, 21lw1400 cone isn't a piston after 200
normal 3way 😀
+ 1"-1.4" comp. driver 🙂.. Double 18" is about 40% more cone area than a single 21".
They don't move "too much" air. Sure do give clean bass, tho.
No problem mating them to a 15, 12 or 10 inch midrange.
normal 3way 😀
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Yep. Even a dome or planar tweeter will work well in a domestic setting.
Eburg? Are you out there on the edge of the Urals?
Eburg? Are you out there on the edge of the Urals?
Hi,
Really depends on what your SO (aka SWMBO - She Who Must Be Obeyed) lets you get away with.
Given that I have the okay for a pair of Shearer Bass Bins and a pair of Altec A7's with Wings in our living room, I would suggest that 21" is rather puny and you should consider a Fostex 30" instead, you could use an 18" Driver as upper bass/lower midrange to go with that... 🙂
On the other hand I know guys who dream in vain about a small 10" sub.
Ciao T
PS, a 15" Driver in pro-audio routinely is used to 800...1600Hz and it sounds just fine that way.
Hi Guys, Just wondering if a 21" bass driver would be too big to use at home when building a 3 way cabinet for full range audio?
Really depends on what your SO (aka SWMBO - She Who Must Be Obeyed) lets you get away with.
Given that I have the okay for a pair of Shearer Bass Bins and a pair of Altec A7's with Wings in our living room, I would suggest that 21" is rather puny and you should consider a Fostex 30" instead, you could use an 18" Driver as upper bass/lower midrange to go with that... 🙂
On the other hand I know guys who dream in vain about a small 10" sub.
Ciao T
PS, a 15" Driver in pro-audio routinely is used to 800...1600Hz and it sounds just fine that way.
Speaking of pro drivers, I'm running a pair of JBL 2245H in 8.5 cubic feet up to 160 Hz, crossing to a Zaph designed two way with a W15CY001. Crossing at my receiver's standard 80 Hz the two ways ran out of excursion early in my fairly large great room. Now it is much cleaner at any reasonable level. Looks odd but SWMBO doesn't live here so I don't have that issue for the time being.
No, 21" isn't too big if the driver has reasonably clean top end capability and you have the room for it. The catch is the best placement for your 3 ways may not be the best for the bottom end. I got lucky that I got pretty flat response throughout the room except for a major peak right at the stove.
No, 21" isn't too big if the driver has reasonably clean top end capability and you have the room for it. The catch is the best placement for your 3 ways may not be the best for the bottom end. I got lucky that I got pretty flat response throughout the room except for a major peak right at the stove.
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2x15" for the ~same money\same box volume..
And would allow push-push loading. Also a lot more choice for quality 15s.
dave
I want a ported box and a F3 of about 30Hz-40Hz
It seems that the main problem is that I have not found any driver with a resonant frequency of about 10Hz.
that would do the trick. The lowest I have seen is 20Hz.
not sure why you believe to need 10hz Fs 😕
but for a closed box, low Fs would be nice, sure
there are woofers with that low Fs, IB(infinite baffle)
but not possible in a small box
and its usually used in multiples due to low sensitivity
and then sub only
AE Speakers --- Superb Quality, Unforgettable Performance, Definitely.
should I choose a 21" from 18sound, I might look closer at 21NLW9000 instead
21NLW9000 - Extended LF Neodymium Driver
the other ones have low Qts, and you may struggle more to get it down low
looks very nice, I could be tempted too 🙂
but no doubt exstremely expencive
18" is more than enough for my needs 😀
21" isn't too big the PD2450 (24") has been used in three way:
Loudspeaker Kit Schmitti Memorial by Klang+Ton
however it apears from my earlier thread that PD2450 is not posible to obtain at the moment as PD have broken the mold! 🙁
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/167375-pd2450-horn-2.html
which is a shame as painkiller was going to build an insane tapped horn using one
Loudspeaker Kit Schmitti Memorial by Klang+Ton
however it apears from my earlier thread that PD2450 is not posible to obtain at the moment as PD have broken the mold! 🙁
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/167375-pd2450-horn-2.html
which is a shame as painkiller was going to build an insane tapped horn using one
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The MOC
😀
/Forsman
My 21" + 8" + AMT dipole. XO at 350 and 1500
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I want a speaker that will move some air so that I can feel it with the bass notes,
My sentiments exactly, whatever the physicists might say about little drivers with big movements.
In that case, you really want a Klipschorn to move air. Can't think of what could stir the air in a room as much.
for HF 😀 or want you combine dome tweeter with 21lw1400?Dude, a 1.4" driver is not going to kick anyone in the guts![]()
one young man gleefully boasted a subwoofer in his car: "..I have a blood nose gone, and my girl began to vomit"..🙄
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"of course you could put your faith in active crossover, and hope for the best"
Why tinitus writes off active so dismissively is a mystery to me. I won't bother with passives at all again.
What it will give you is far more control and less headaches than a passive crossover, but you already know that; "The crossover and other aspects of the design I'm OK with, but cabinets I really don't know much about."
Active Crossovers Vs. Passive Crossovers
BiAmp (Bi-Amplification - Not Quite Magic, But Close) - Part 1
BiAmp (Bi-Amplification - Not Quite Magic, But Close) - Part 2
Frank
Why tinitus writes off active so dismissively is a mystery to me. I won't bother with passives at all again.
What it will give you is far more control and less headaches than a passive crossover, but you already know that; "The crossover and other aspects of the design I'm OK with, but cabinets I really don't know much about."
Active Crossovers Vs. Passive Crossovers
BiAmp (Bi-Amplification - Not Quite Magic, But Close) - Part 1
BiAmp (Bi-Amplification - Not Quite Magic, But Close) - Part 2
Frank
Does anyone have any experience building their own 3 way speakers and using a 15" to 21" driver?
I have built a 15 inch and two 18 inch systems.
I love the bass the 18 incher gives.
I combine it with another cabinet with 4 off 10inch speakers in it to get a full range sound.
No, not too big. The only problem is that 21" drivers tend to be used for pro audio, where deep bass is not required (which is not to say they cannot do it well). Equalization of the transfer function will likely be a necessity, but you will not be lacking in quality of sound.
A good application of a 21" might be a 21" up to 125Hz, XO to a 12" up to 1100Hz, XO to a waveguided compression driver.
A good application of a 21" might be a 21" up to 125Hz, XO to a 12" up to 1100Hz, XO to a waveguided compression driver.
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