Oops.
Addressed earlier. Someone else caught the error on the sheet. Already corrected for future.
🙂
hope proper ones are delivered and that omission is just on paper
sorry if I missed info earlier
sorry if I missed info earlier
Yep. 2.5 in all baggies. Only parts ordered. So, no way for me to ook that up. 😉
I received mine today and just checked there - its LM336-2.5 in the bag but the paper says its 5v version.
^ Nah, I haven't earned the right to blame Pa (yet). That one's all on me.
I put a note in post #1 just in case.
As always, I appreciate people bringing the goofs to my attention. The early builders did an awesome job before they all went out into the wild, and it's sooooooo appreciated. However, there still may be a glitch or two.
I put a note in post #1 just in case.
As always, I appreciate people bringing the goofs to my attention. The early builders did an awesome job before they all went out into the wild, and it's sooooooo appreciated. However, there still may be a glitch or two.
I've still got casework (a lot of casework) to do, and some RCA plugs in the post, but I've got a fully operational balanced version.
...and I inverted the volume pots.
Last edited:
Zen, Patrick (and Papa for the Susy),
Just wow.
I gave it a quick run through some of my current listening favorites, including Marc Ribot's Aurora En Pekin, and I could tell when he was playing with the tone knob on his guitar. This with cold Alephs. Your efforts made me smile quite broadly today.
I'll re-square the volume and get the case in a better temporary condition and give it some long martini-contemplation time over the weekend.
Just wow.
I gave it a quick run through some of my current listening favorites, including Marc Ribot's Aurora En Pekin, and I could tell when he was playing with the tone knob on his guitar. This with cold Alephs. Your efforts made me smile quite broadly today.
I'll re-square the volume and get the case in a better temporary condition and give it some long martini-contemplation time over the weekend.
I got my SE-kit.
It seems the High Ni core material makes a difference in data sheet compared with the 50% Ni version:
https://cinemag.biz/output/PDF/CMOQ-4.pdf
Edcor has a pure steel core. The only data I could find was this:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0586/3830/3419/files/Plot_PC600-600.pdf?v=1626816454
Is it possible to describe the sound difference between the two?
It seems the High Ni core material makes a difference in data sheet compared with the 50% Ni version:
https://cinemag.biz/output/PDF/CMOQ-4.pdf
Edcor has a pure steel core. The only data I could find was this:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0586/3830/3419/files/Plot_PC600-600.pdf?v=1626816454
Is it possible to describe the sound difference between the two?
Congratulations Toadroller! (Now why did I read you post in the Emperor's voice? 😀 😀 😀)
(Now why did I read you post in the Emperor's voice? 😀 😀 😀)
more $ will give you more details
Cinemags are my fave, but Edcors are far from bad, even if cheapest
in case of these 3(4) options, your $ is not paying for BS, faaar from that
I will use the provided Cinemags!
The schematics PNGs prints nicely on A4 paper.
As I don't install any relays I will omit the dedicated PSU components for this.
If output is taken from JP1/2 it makes a nice B1-clone......
I will ask Gianluca for a special version chassis for my needs (e.g. a front panel without any holes other than the 4 mounting holes and a back panel with only one set of inputs).
The schematics PNGs prints nicely on A4 paper.
As I don't install any relays I will omit the dedicated PSU components for this.
If output is taken from JP1/2 it makes a nice B1-clone......
I will ask Gianluca for a special version chassis for my needs (e.g. a front panel without any holes other than the 4 mounting holes and a back panel with only one set of inputs).
speaking of Bal
with one input only, you can wire input either to input 1 pads (with shorts in place of K1) or leading input wires to end/ougoing pads of K1 ........ or directly to CCW & WIP pads, if omitting pot too
if using it Bal - Bal (SE) , do not forget shorts in place of K6 relay
if using it SE - Bal (SE), you don't need shorts in place of K6 relay, but you also don't need all components for negative phase buffer
with one input only, you can wire input either to input 1 pads (with shorts in place of K1) or leading input wires to end/ougoing pads of K1 ........ or directly to CCW & WIP pads, if omitting pot too
if using it Bal - Bal (SE) , do not forget shorts in place of K6 relay
if using it SE - Bal (SE), you don't need shorts in place of K6 relay, but you also don't need all components for negative phase buffer
Last edited:
Hello IRON PRE-builders,
although I always need some help...
the build went on very smoothly.
I only recognized one little thing - I had to cut / grind one edge of the plastic foot of one CINEMAG transformer to R28.
That is an easy procedure for me. But that nice CINEMAG should sit flat on the pcb.
Zen Mod likes it tight?
I am still on a solderslingin' nightflight... greedy grabbing parts and destroying boxes - oh my
Cheers
Dirk 😉
although I always need some help...
the build went on very smoothly.I only recognized one little thing - I had to cut / grind one edge of the plastic foot of one CINEMAG transformer to R28.
That is an easy procedure for me. But that nice CINEMAG should sit flat on the pcb.
Zen Mod likes it tight?
I am still on a solderslingin' nightflight... greedy grabbing parts and destroying boxes - oh my
Cheers
Dirk 😉
Attachments
Hi Dirk -
Really nice call-out. Thanks! I just checked with 10 different CineMags, and they all overlap the pad for R28 just a bit. I thought it may be a manufacturing tolerance and you just got one with slightly bigger footprint. That spacing could be a bit more generous.
Great solution.
Really nice call-out. Thanks! I just checked with 10 different CineMags, and they all overlap the pad for R28 just a bit. I thought it may be a manufacturing tolerance and you just got one with slightly bigger footprint. That spacing could be a bit more generous.
Great solution.
I checked my PCB + Cinemag and I will also do the "Dremmel trick".
Alternative the R28 could be mounted from bottom of the PCB and then cut leg so it just flush the surface.
Alternative the R28 could be mounted from bottom of the PCB and then cut leg so it just flush the surface.
that's nothing, comparing with bombs Papa usually lay for Greedy Boyz
improvise ......
improvise ......