^ If I'm picking up what you're putting down... you tried to go by the silkscreen and some looked different to you by your recollection...
If that's accurate, then sadly, yep... you'll have one or more backwards. They should all face the same way.
Hope you get it sorted when you get home.
Let us know...
If that's accurate, then sadly, yep... you'll have one or more backwards. They should all face the same way.
Hope you get it sorted when you get home.
Let us know...
Wait, I will recheck but I believe I did have short leg out? will recheck, even though legs are now even, there is still the internal structure of the led
to look at, and the silk screen. Is there anything else that could prevent them from lighting? I must have reversed them darn it. But if I followed the pic, they should be correct? No more wonderment until I get home in an hour or two. At least I figured out the silk screen flat spot correctly!
to look at, and the silk screen. Is there anything else that could prevent them from lighting? I must have reversed them darn it. But if I followed the pic, they should be correct? No more wonderment until I get home in an hour or two. At least I figured out the silk screen flat spot correctly!
Maybe I'm wrong thinking, but if, and I mean if problem is reversed led, wouldnt voltage to it still be there? Also I would like to eliminate possibility
of taking that fitting apart until absolutely necessary, I will break it. Then de solder, resolder. Will diode test tell if in backwards? I dont know...I suppose I could measure at leg of led, instead of disassembly of the connector?
of taking that fitting apart until absolutely necessary, I will break it. Then de solder, resolder. Will diode test tell if in backwards? I dont know...I suppose I could measure at leg of led, instead of disassembly of the connector?
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Just poking at you, but if you're going to use the build guide... you must also read the build guide. Better to just use a DMM as ZM mentioned.
Below is from step 14, which if I recall... I wrote.
- Image 1 - This is the side facing the front of the chassis for the 2021 Twister board
- Image 2 - This is the side facing the front of the chassis for the 2023 Twister board.
- Note the differences in how the LEDs are marked on the silkscreen. Pay particular attention to the 'C' and the flat side of the LEDs on the silkscreens noting the cathode of the LED. The orientation of the LEDs is opposing for the two boards. Be sure you triple check before soldering.
Where? But ... yes... if the switch is in the proper place, and if you're measuring it in the correct place.
Yes...
Edited to add - I am a dodo. Even I looked at the picture incorrectly. So... I cleaned up above for future reference. For those that read the first iteration of the post... 6L6 has it perfect per usual in capturing the leg length, flat side, and orientation.
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I am omni idiot here. When delving into things I am not well versed in but need to figure out, I always think of two things Albert Einstien said:
1. "when faced with multiple explanation for problem, "The simplest explanation is usually correct." This is juxtaposed against:
2. "Everything should be as simple as possible, BUT NO MORE simple."
I figure simplest explanation is leds are reversed. Requires soldering, and unsoldering is fairly simple. That fails, I guess that was too simple!
1. "when faced with multiple explanation for problem, "The simplest explanation is usually correct." This is juxtaposed against:
2. "Everything should be as simple as possible, BUT NO MORE simple."
I figure simplest explanation is leds are reversed. Requires soldering, and unsoldering is fairly simple. That fails, I guess that was too simple!
Make no mistake, build guide is read. The only mention is that the two different boards are opposite with regard to led orientation. I think writers of these guides, while having to be brief as necessary sometimes read them with eye to their knowledge, assuming subconsciously everyone has same knowledge as creator. I see no protocol in guide for testing this out with dmm.
Not a worry. I was just poking at you. Heck, I had to do a double / triple take on it. I just remember like (I think) everything that long leg is positive.
With the DMM set to diode - The LED should light up when the red probe is on the anode (toward the middle), and the black probe is on the cathode (toward the outside). It should also provide the forward voltage of the LED. If they light up / read a forward voltage with the probes reversed.... then they're in backwards.
The guide is listed to be of "difficult" difficulty. From the sales page also... "This project is intended for intermediate to advanced DIYers. "
LED orientation is beginner stuff, IMO. Luckily if you get it wrong, it doesn't blow anything up. The good news is that after replacing 5 LEDs, you won't likely forget.
Well... me. 
LOL!
FWIW - Russellc - I also have now added (as of two days ago) to check the LED before installation with a DMM. I bought a gazillion 5mm and 3mm LEDs off one of those websites when I started building ... two of them have been DOA over the last few years. If I killed them, then no one has proof.
LOL!FWIW - Russellc - I also have now added (as of two days ago) to check the LED before installation with a DMM. I bought a gazillion 5mm and 3mm LEDs off one of those websites when I started building ... two of them have been DOA over the last few years. If I killed them, then no one has proof.
Howdy All!
A huge Thanks too all Zen mod and Mr Pass and team at diyaudio store and others on this thread
I am gathering parts for a real case its on its way
I have one question the amphenol part nos for the Zen mod chassis RCAs ?
I have a temporary setup and i must say very nice my first pre amp of this kind its amazing looking forward too completing it
Thanks again everyone.
A huge Thanks too all Zen mod and Mr Pass and team at diyaudio store and others on this thread
I am gathering parts for a real case its on its way
I have one question the amphenol part nos for the Zen mod chassis RCAs ?
I have a temporary setup and i must say very nice my first pre amp of this kind its amazing looking forward too completing it
Thanks again everyone.
^ Typical holes for "Neutrik D-Mount". Anything that fits those will work.
Compare something like this...
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...3YQORvNegvriUEmtjbYv-qmAdgX9GjnxoCIlEQAvD_BwE
To something like this...
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NF2D-B-2?qs=6LylQoPC2SuD/jInfxAMmQ==
If the mounts match... then you're good to go.
Compare something like this...
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...3YQORvNegvriUEmtjbYv-qmAdgX9GjnxoCIlEQAvD_BwE
To something like this...
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NF2D-B-2?qs=6LylQoPC2SuD/jInfxAMmQ==
If the mounts match... then you're good to go.
I get with the guide, just saying. This is my second Iron Pre, but first with twister led gizmo.
I'm beginning an investigation! Those poor innocent LEDs!Well... me.
FWIW - Russellc - I also have now added (as of two days ago) to check the LED before installation with a DMM. I bought a gazillion 5mm and 3mm LEDs off one of those websites when I started building ... two of them have been DOA over the last few years. If I killed them, then no one has proof.
That was sole reason for building another!!besides, LEDs are just an option
who sez that everyone must have them?
