You will buy it through the DIYAudio store. When the store is ready to ship they are going to send an email out to everyone on the list saying that the kit is ready with a link to purchase the kit. At some point it will be opened to the general public on the DIYAudio store website if you are not on the interest list.
I have registered on the GB list of this tread, so waiting for a mail or a PM
thanks for explanation
thanks for explanation
I sure hope so. Otherwise, Houston, we may have a problem...
Exactly. In addition, most part criteria have been posted for curious Greedy Boyz in KISS thread.. Nothing re: parts dimensions has changed from previous builds in 'KISS' thread. Even specific parts for input twister and recommended relays has been posted. I am sure 6L6 is reading also if he chooses to include this in the guide, but we have all details dimensions (where needed) for pin spacing / diameters / pitch etc. in my files. Like I said... if people know what to do... and are in a big hurry... no need for them to delay. If uncertain... they should wait. I can post general things in KISS thread if that is helpful for people to prepare.
You NEVER mess up any arrangement. 🙂. I can e-mail you re: who is doing what, but I think you already know. You're always too kind, and we all know how to find you when we need any info. Mainly all coordination is moving through non-mighty-moi and then on to Jason to ensure we all have one true source for all latest docs, planning, timing, etc. I also get to bother everyone re: status since my much-mightier-wifey would like some boxes shipped and is threatening to cut my cord. So, I poke people every once in a while in an attempt to preserve my critical wiring.
When the build guide is done (probably before then, actually) I will start a new build thread and make sure all the documentation goes in the first couple of posts.
That will make it easy to find.
That will make it easy to find.
Just take your time and keep up the great work and kind communication.Hi Everyone!
Sorry for the delay in responses. There is still one box to tick, and the person working on that particular box is incredible. I simply underestimated how much time they might need to do their vital work. That's on me. Apologies. From a trusted source, this is "the most complicated project" to be launched. It needs / deserves the best efforts from the best people. The goal is happy builders. So, all I can say is... my humble apologies for poor timing estimates, but I'm confident it will be worth the wait.
re: the link to the survey. I'm not sure of the technical reason, but from a practical standpoint, there is no need to sign up to express interest any longer.
All the kits from the first run are effectively spoken for. So, there's no need for anyone else to add their name to the list. Anyone that's not part of the first group can purchase kits from the store when they're in stock.
Other stuff....
The feedback from the survey was used to determine if there would be a chassis (and when). YAY, two chassis are in development! Timing... soon, but don't ask. 🙂. They're working quickly.
The only other relevant chunk is whether there might be a "completion kit" of some sort in the future. That's undecided. Given what we've all got on our plates at the moment, I wouldn't expect any news for "a while". So, if you're wondering whether to order all your extra parts or whether to wait on a completion kit... order your parts.
And until it's finished, we have (more than) enough projects to finish 😀
My personal parts lists with notes aren't all that professional, so I am refining them. I've sent them to a number of people for their early builds, but I don't feel great posting them as-is. They are definitely not the good definition of "fugly". I won't commit anyone's time to creating a Mouser / Digi-key cart with in-stock parts / exact quantities ... but typically someone nice pops up in the threads to create one from existing information.
Posts similar to "Will this work instead of that?", and/or "Is this part better than that one?" will continue when parts are out of stock and/or people choose to use their own favorite supplier or boutique parts.
However, I fully agree with what I believe to be the overall sentiment; a parts list is a wonderful start. It gives some confidence and removes some frustration for newer builders, and it can save some valuable time for even the busiest of experienced builders. It's a nice-to-have. And... it's "hardly a tough one". Again... happy builders.
I'll post them here and in the KISS thread when I get them beautified, verified, and deodorized. I'll ask how we may include them in more 'permanent' spots as needed. Anyone considering ordering parts now... should not need one, but....
Posts similar to "Will this work instead of that?", and/or "Is this part better than that one?" will continue when parts are out of stock and/or people choose to use their own favorite supplier or boutique parts.
However, I fully agree with what I believe to be the overall sentiment; a parts list is a wonderful start. It gives some confidence and removes some frustration for newer builders, and it can save some valuable time for even the busiest of experienced builders. It's a nice-to-have. And... it's "hardly a tough one". Again... happy builders.
I'll post them here and in the KISS thread when I get them beautified, verified, and deodorized. I'll ask how we may include them in more 'permanent' spots as needed. Anyone considering ordering parts now... should not need one, but....
Parts going in and out of stock, out of production etc. are one of the tricky aspects of this hobby.
^ Exactly. This kit uses some obsolete and other currently 'hard to get' parts. In addition, certain parts require matching, so it's challenging. Hopefully by providing all the actives for the kits... builders won't have to worry too much about stocks. I've seen projects become announced, then the stock of certain parts may evaporate over night from certain sellers. We wanted to try and prevent that here. I've sat around for months waiting for parts to get back into stock in some cases...(edited to add - not for this project). Nobody likes that, but them's the breaks. 🙂
Most of the passive parts shouldn't be too challenging for people to get. <knocks wood> <rubs rabbit's foot>
Most of the passive parts shouldn't be too challenging for people to get. <knocks wood> <rubs rabbit's foot>
you got what kit is having in bags ...... and then except relays, everything else can be bought in first Grocery Store
and then - relays - good that we can use either those with 24Vdc and 12Vdc coils, with change of one zener diode
really all parts are of generic variety
and then - relays - good that we can use either those with 24Vdc and 12Vdc coils, with change of one zener diode
really all parts are of generic variety
Would you have dimension info for the resistors and caps? That should be enough for people to start gathering parts if they're up for it. 🙂
^ Of course... all will be posted eventually in the spit-shined version previously mentioned, but in the interim... I love the enthusiasm.
For everyone...
Below is NOT proofed, and it is NOT double checked. However, for those that really, really, need some extra help, don't want to print the file in post #61, and feel compelled by the DIY spirit to order parts ASAP before we get better docs out... here ya go.
All recommended resistors are '0207' (per ZM) standard 1/4W size. All have lead spacing of 10mm. If anyone is planning to use big ol' "1/2W" RN65 series Dales; don't. I'd wait to get your boards. 🙂 There's a few tight spots. I never bothered to ask ZM hole diameters or measure them myself or look at them in the PCB files. "Normal" 1/4W resistors definitely fit.
Edited for clarity - I tend to joke a lot, but I don't want to cause confusion when it could be taken literally. RN65 will clearly not work. Even the Dale RN60 series would likely be a very tight fit in some spots. Unless you're sure... use regular old 1/4W rated and sized resistors.
Small electrolytics (C7 - C10 etc) - 2.5mm lead spacing. Max diameter 5mm
Medium electrolytics (C12 - C19 etc) - 5mm lead spacing. Max diameter 10mm
Big Electrolytics (C1 - C4 etc) - 5mm lead spacing. Max diameter 14mm
Small film caps (snubber etc) - 8mm lead spacing. Max length 10mm. Max width 3mm
Big film caps (C5, C6 etc) - 10mm or 15mm lead spacing. Max length 18mm. Max width 6mm
All of those ... Maximums are max recommended... I'm sure people will feel free to wedge in some preferred parts at their discretion.
Hope that helps.
For everyone...
Below is NOT proofed, and it is NOT double checked. However, for those that really, really, need some extra help, don't want to print the file in post #61, and feel compelled by the DIY spirit to order parts ASAP before we get better docs out... here ya go.
All recommended resistors are '0207' (per ZM) standard 1/4W size. All have lead spacing of 10mm. If anyone is planning to use big ol' "1/2W" RN65 series Dales; don't. I'd wait to get your boards. 🙂 There's a few tight spots. I never bothered to ask ZM hole diameters or measure them myself or look at them in the PCB files. "Normal" 1/4W resistors definitely fit.
Edited for clarity - I tend to joke a lot, but I don't want to cause confusion when it could be taken literally. RN65 will clearly not work. Even the Dale RN60 series would likely be a very tight fit in some spots. Unless you're sure... use regular old 1/4W rated and sized resistors.
Small electrolytics (C7 - C10 etc) - 2.5mm lead spacing. Max diameter 5mm
Medium electrolytics (C12 - C19 etc) - 5mm lead spacing. Max diameter 10mm
Big Electrolytics (C1 - C4 etc) - 5mm lead spacing. Max diameter 14mm
Small film caps (snubber etc) - 8mm lead spacing. Max length 10mm. Max width 3mm
Big film caps (C5, C6 etc) - 10mm or 15mm lead spacing. Max length 18mm. Max width 6mm
All of those ... Maximums are max recommended... I'm sure people will feel free to wedge in some preferred parts at their discretion.
Hope that helps.
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^ You're quite welcome. You're quick. I edited for some clarity.
OH! I forgot ZM mentioned heatsinks in a previous post... these are the one's I used. I keep a ton of them around for small dissipation stuff.
Mouser part - 532-507302B00
Silkscreen dimensions for those that want to do their own shopping are:
Internal width (contact surface) 11mm. ... I'd say this is close to the minimum recommended.
Internal depth 'fins' / 'wings' 9mm. Can go bigger.
If anyone is concerned, ask or print and measure from post #61. There's a pretty reasonable amount of room. Heck, I mounted my fins facing away from the center of the board I think in all my builds to make my life easier.
OH! I forgot ZM mentioned heatsinks in a previous post... these are the one's I used. I keep a ton of them around for small dissipation stuff.
Mouser part - 532-507302B00
Silkscreen dimensions for those that want to do their own shopping are:
Internal width (contact surface) 11mm. ... I'd say this is close to the minimum recommended.
Internal depth 'fins' / 'wings' 9mm. Can go bigger.
If anyone is concerned, ask or print and measure from post #61. There's a pretty reasonable amount of room. Heck, I mounted my fins facing away from the center of the board I think in all my builds to make my life easier.
The DIYA community is just awesome. Thank you to everyone involved in making this project happen.