My parts arrived today from Mouser. It's my first time with smd parts. Just soldered a 27.4k resistor, it's easier thanI thought it would be 🙂
SMD is easy. It just take a little getting used to. Even miniature ICs aren't bad at all to work with once you figure out how to do it.
Mouser sent me 22R 1W smd resistors market on the bag label as 220R and 10R 1W marked as 100R. The markings on the parts and measurements indicate the correct value, 22 and 10 ohms. I'm going to measure all the other resistors. Unfortunately, I don't have equipment to measure the small pF capacitors and they have no markings on them. I'll have to trust Mouser...
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You need to be careful with Mouser parts, especially LEDs and resistors. It's hard to believe business' that size don't seem to employ anyone that knows anything about the parts they are selling! Newark/Farnell and Digikey sales staff know nothing either, but their parts descriptions are better.
I can't see any problem here.
10R SMD marked as 100 the last zero=0 zeros
22R SMD marked as 220 the last zero=0 zeros
That's how a component is normally marked, but not the bag that it comes in from a North American supplier. Normally the packaging would say 22 Ohms, or 10 Ohms. I've had some show up saying 10Ohms, just to make it more confusing.😀
It's correct then. As Thimios said, the last digit is the number of zeros on the end of the value.
It should say 22 Ohms and 10 Ohms not 220 Ohms and 100 Ohms. All the other resistors are marked ok. For example, 1.82k resistors are marked 1.82kohms
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There isn't really a standard for manufacturers, so it varies, but 220 normally means 22 ohms. This would be equivalent to red/red/black stripes on a through hole resistor. I have some Yaegos here that are marked 22R0. I have other Yaego resistors that say nothing at all on them. I have some Panasonic 10 ohms that say 100 on them. There's no real standard and everything changes again when you get into precision resistors.
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Okay, so the issue is Mouser's minimum wage help.😀 It's really tricky to deal with them on a regular basis. You can't even trust them to link the correct datasheet with the parts they are selling. They have a great inventory and good prices, but you need to waste a lot of time double checking their info if you want to get the right parts the first time. For passives and LEDs, I'm usually willing to pay a little more and get them right the first time. I usually buy mine from Newark. At least their search engine usually finds the correct value.
When in doubt measure them with your DMM. 220 may be a 1% 22 ohm resistor. 220R is 220 ohms. I order my SMT's from Digikey and they have been 100% correct so far.
Digikey Canada is excellent, but the US counterpart has some issues. I've only had to deal with the US side a few times, and it was all bad. Vzaichenko had a lot of fun with them too!
I just use what I have in stock. I stock a lot of Nichicon VR caps. Nice compact size with a good lifespan rating.
Wow, you made your own thru-hole PCB! Glad it works - did you have any problems with first start-up? What bias current are you running?
Hi Sownel,
Nice build! was your pcb the VHex v1.1? (originally designed by Valery) It looks exactly the same, I have mine etched but not populated yet...😉