So it is a software bug. I Actually thought maybe one of the temperature sensors was not ok, but they are provided witz 4.87V and put 0,66V out on the Sernsor line. So that should be fine.
So I need a JTAG then it seems? Or ios there a possibillity to progremm it with the atmel stk500? Havern't worked with it for some time so I'm not sure .
Thanks for the help.
Edit: Just seen you use the ISP. So I should be fine with the stk500
Stk500 is a wonderful tool , me using for the last 15 years this.
It is easy to use and do all the job.
You can use also the Atmel Studio with STK500 to program the firmware with ISP connector 6 pins .
But in your case it is about temperature sensor miss-connected.
Best regards.
Thanks Danzup.
I checked again and although they are corected the right way, it seems that the lm50 have taken damage somehow. the supply between + and - is 4.87V. still the output starts with 0.66V and is slowly increasing to 0.8V which is actually to high for my environment.
after some time now it changed to 0.08V which is obviously wrong. So I guesss I have to replace the temperature sensors?
Thanks for the help
I checked again and although they are corected the right way, it seems that the lm50 have taken damage somehow. the supply between + and - is 4.87V. still the output starts with 0.66V and is slowly increasing to 0.8V which is actually to high for my environment.
after some time now it changed to 0.08V which is obviously wrong. So I guesss I have to replace the temperature sensors?
Thanks for the help
Actually 0.8V is normal for around 30 Celsius degree and show that LM50 is working OK !
From data-sheet the output of LM50 should be this :
Vout (measured with voltmeter)= (10mV/Celsius degree x measured temp in celsius degree) + 500mV
- it show 0.75V at 25 Celsius degree
Please check that all connection are OK between LCD board and LM50 on both.Also please assure that both LM50 does not short circuit with radiator and amplifier !
There must be no electrical connection other than to the LCD board.
Can you wait for me and please provide me an e-mail to speak with you (contact me on personal messages) ?
Last edited:
I wrote you a pm
supply on the chips is fine and they are on my desk right now so no short circuit with radiators. I only test the LCD board + 2 temp sensors and power switch. everything else is detached. also checked connections. Both signal lines are ok from the LM50 up to the Atmega.
As a note for you , please do not disconnect board with relay , because when I2c slave target is not present weird things happens (aka big waiting time for UC !) .
Hi all ,
for those that are handy and comfortable with iron heating tools I suggest to you an upgrade that is very good for your Maya controller : upgrade C9 to 1000uF/25V ...35V . Please be aware that you need expertise for this as de-soldering on this position might damage the board if precaution are not taken.
for those that are handy and comfortable with iron heating tools I suggest to you an upgrade that is very good for your Maya controller : upgrade C9 to 1000uF/25V ...35V . Please be aware that you need expertise for this as de-soldering on this position might damage the board if precaution are not taken.
I breadboarded the ones I just received up and have the same heat shutdown issue. For now I have shut off the sensor in the menu to just test some things. How do you setup an apple remote for the unit? It isn't as simple as just moving the setting to NEC or trying to pair it, so what has to happen?
We are trying to simulate this. Can you describe exactly what you done and got heat shutdown ?
For Apple remote just select NEC protocol and you are done.
Regards,
Tibi
That capacitor must be 1000uF - 2200uF in order to keep unit stable with Zettler relays. These are commuting faster but drain more current.
Regards,
Tibi
I left it as you sent it, ran a 6 volt DC supply I had to it and used hooked up one input on the first unit. The second unit, I have only powered on.
The temp sensor issue may have gone away as it did not come up in the 5 minutes after I turned the setting back on.
I cannot get the apple remote to work. I have two of them. I switched to NEC (went to settings, moved to remote type, scrolled to NEC and then hit settings again). No luck. Neither one seems to work for it. Maybe I need the literature so I don't screw things up.
One note. The relays on one unit seem to make noise when powered on, but the other one does not. I have not checked to see if the non-noise making board works, but thought that it was interesting.
Shawn
The temp sensor issue may have gone away as it did not come up in the 5 minutes after I turned the setting back on.
I cannot get the apple remote to work. I have two of them. I switched to NEC (went to settings, moved to remote type, scrolled to NEC and then hit settings again). No luck. Neither one seems to work for it. Maybe I need the literature so I don't screw things up.
One note. The relays on one unit seem to make noise when powered on, but the other one does not. I have not checked to see if the non-noise making board works, but thought that it was interesting.
Shawn
9 volts DC did the trick on all the issues except the heat, but I have been unable to replicate that issue anyway.
In order to make system simple, could you remove the installation and function of the temperature sensors for me before shipping? I don't want to deal with any problem of temp sensors.
What is the revised schedule to arrange shipping? It has been two weeks since last estimated shipping schedule of Feb 8.
What is the revised schedule to arrange shipping? It has been two weeks since last estimated shipping schedule of Feb 8.
Have updated firmware upgrade document http://vicol-audio.ro/img/maya/Maya_firmware_upgrade.pdf
Regards,
Tibi
Regards,
Tibi
Finished amplifier with Maya control
After some problems at the start with the temperature sensors, I finally finished my little amp.
Thanks to the support of Tibi and Danzup I was able to find and resolve the problem. After replacing the sensors it's now working without problems.
I must have damaged them somehow. Maybe it was ESD.
Anyway I just wanted to say thanks again. Especially to Danzup who even wrote two firmwares in the attempt to find the problems cause.
I enjoyed listening to it for 2 days now and am very pleased with the result.
I'll go back to listening.
Have a nice day everyone
After some problems at the start with the temperature sensors, I finally finished my little amp.
Thanks to the support of Tibi and Danzup I was able to find and resolve the problem. After replacing the sensors it's now working without problems.
I must have damaged them somehow. Maybe it was ESD.
Anyway I just wanted to say thanks again. Especially to Danzup who even wrote two firmwares in the attempt to find the problems cause.
I enjoyed listening to it for 2 days now and am very pleased with the result.
I'll go back to listening.
Have a nice day everyone
Attachments
Nazgul, very nice project.
Tibi, I am preparing the chassis now as well.
Would there be in chance to get the dwg file for the back panel drilling, so it could be easily used by the chassis manufacturers. I have seen o my front panel dvg so far.
Thanks,
Oleg
Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk
Tibi, I am preparing the chassis now as well.
Would there be in chance to get the dwg file for the back panel drilling, so it could be easily used by the chassis manufacturers. I have seen o my front panel dvg so far.
Thanks,
Oleg
Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk
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