I do have a multimeter and it can test capacitance. And I am still trying to locate a pair of suitable replacement caps. I do have a question regarding the official schematic and parts list @6thplanet provided a while back. It showed: C1 Capacitor, 5uf, 10%, Electrolytic. R1 Resistor, WW, 5 watts, .5 ohm.
Then a second line: C1 Capacitor, 4.5uf, 10%, Electrolytic. R1 Resistor, 5 watt, 10%, 1.0 ohm.
Am I to read correctly that the caps and resistors in the second line of C1 and R1 are suitable replacements should those in the first line be unavailable?
This is my soldering iron, I am concerned that it won't reach a high enough heat quickly to avoid damage to the terminals on the caps and resistors if I do change them.
Weller Soldering Iron
The exact value of capacitor will depend on the amount of resistance in series with it
Yours will be 5 uF to match the resistor and lamp fitted to your particular speaker.
Since you have a multimeter, why are you not telling me the resistance of each of these two components?
P.S. The gun should be alright if you solder quickly. You can also attach a crocodile clip between the component and its soldering point to act as a heatsink.
Yours will be 5 uF to match the resistor and lamp fitted to your particular speaker.
Since you have a multimeter, why are you not telling me the resistance of each of these two components?
P.S. The gun should be alright if you solder quickly. You can also attach a crocodile clip between the component and its soldering point to act as a heatsink.
Last edited:
I don't know if you can get them over there, but Mundorf of Germany do a 5 uF Bipolar E-Cap.
The soldering iron simply takes 6 seconds to reach soldering temperature after which you are ready to solder - quickly, using heat sink!
seeing as there's a meter available i'd check those darn lamps to see if they have continuity.
because if the replacement tweeter is a good sub and the lamps are ok but the problem stays with the one speaker then and only then i'd look at the caps....
because if the replacement tweeter is a good sub and the lamps are ok but the problem stays with the one speaker then and only then i'd look at the caps....
I'll try answering your question directly.
To the best of my knowledge, 4.5 uF NP electrolytic capacitors are not obtainable, whereas 5.0 uF ones are.
A workable compromise in either scenario would be to employ the readily available value of 4.7 uF.
P.S. There is no need to replace the lamp and resistor if they are in working order, so be sure to measure their resistances and to carry out 6thplanet's tap test on the lamp. There are opinions that there is no need to replace the capacitor, but I suggest you could at least measure its capacitance.
It seems like this thread is taking a turn sui generis.
I believe the time has come to finally dare (that's, to act) because I understand perfectly that some objects can also have sentimental value, but they shouldn't exaggerate too much. IMHO
Some posters (including me) have asked for some easy tests to be done at zero cost, but they have not been done (yet) and it seems that replacing the capacitor is the only choice that will solve everything despite there being no evidence (yet) of this nor even the approval of the passive speaker repair tech for Bose in the USA.
I'm not an expert technician and not even a technician, but it seems to me like a matter of common sense and frankly it doesn't seem like the correct way to continue... IMO
I believe the time has come to finally dare (that's, to act) because I understand perfectly that some objects can also have sentimental value, but they shouldn't exaggerate too much. IMHO
Some posters (including me) have asked for some easy tests to be done at zero cost, but they have not been done (yet) and it seems that replacing the capacitor is the only choice that will solve everything despite there being no evidence (yet) of this nor even the approval of the passive speaker repair tech for Bose in the USA.
I'm not an expert technician and not even a technician, but it seems to me like a matter of common sense and frankly it doesn't seem like the correct way to continue... IMO
Ha-ha! Your contribution indicates to me that this protracted thread is going viral! 😀
Very true, but there is unlikely to be sentimental value in this case since SpineyNorman picked the speakers up at an estate sale! 😉
Nothing changes in the meaning of my post since it wasn't specifically said to the OP, but it was in my view the (only?) case that could justify a very simple thread of even over 110 replies without even seeing the path to the "conclusion" yet. 😉
The source of the problem likely lies with your non-matching tweeter combination. However the capacitor, resistor and protection lamp should be included as part of the trouble shooting regime.
What I can say is that if its equivalent series resistance (ESR) has increased from when it was new then the capacitor is a candidate for replacement.
Let's hope that when 6thplanet's tweeters are slotted into your system, your HF problems are instantly solved, making a capacitor substitution simply the icing on the cake!
Please remember that there is nothing personal about other people's opinion (mine).
+1
Woo-hoo! The tweets have arrived and will be gently installed tomorrow. Thank you again, @6thplanet!
What is the consensus on connectors such as these instead of standard soldering? And who pronounces it as "solder" or "sawder?" Solder Seal Wire Connectors
What is the consensus on connectors such as these instead of standard soldering? And who pronounces it as "solder" or "sawder?" Solder Seal Wire Connectors
Last edited: