This is the I2S interface for the Gustard A-22. From the manual of IAN's Transport Pi it looks a bit different. Can someone confirm will it work with the transport Pi.
Mod
I tried some mods and I must realize that Ian did a great Job as nothing really improve, except usual stuff as Clock, OPAmps etc.
But one thing I would highly recommend is to remove all electrolyte capacitors. May this sounds a little bit strange, as it is somehow a 'good etiquette' to have this stabilization capacitors in well designed circuits. But this capacitors mellow down the sound and occupy your good power source 🙂
I really high recommend this, the music will be freed, sweet and more detailed !
May start with the caps on the I/V board as they are easy to remove or lift just on side of them.
Give it a try 🙂
Regards
Marcus
I tried some mods and I must realize that Ian did a great Job as nothing really improve, except usual stuff as Clock, OPAmps etc.
But one thing I would highly recommend is to remove all electrolyte capacitors. May this sounds a little bit strange, as it is somehow a 'good etiquette' to have this stabilization capacitors in well designed circuits. But this capacitors mellow down the sound and occupy your good power source 🙂
I really high recommend this, the music will be freed, sweet and more detailed !
May start with the caps on the I/V board as they are easy to remove or lift just on side of them.
Give it a try 🙂
Regards
Marcus
Attachments
So you haven't replaced them with anything?
I replaced the power rail caps on the IVSTD as I will be using a 15v supply for the opamps and I thought the 16v SMD caps maybe a little marginal. I will be fitting 1000uf 25V Panasonic and may bypass with a film cap
I replaced the power rail caps on the IVSTD as I will be using a 15v supply for the opamps and I thought the 16v SMD caps maybe a little marginal. I will be fitting 1000uf 25V Panasonic and may bypass with a film cap
No just removed.
In my testings I also add some bigger and lower esr caps in some places, but sound was always worse, so my reverse conclusion was to just remove the electrolyte caps..for me the result was very surprising and really good
In my testings I also add some bigger and lower esr caps in some places, but sound was always worse, so my reverse conclusion was to just remove the electrolyte caps..for me the result was very surprising and really good
Thats a good one...I assume you use Ians battery supply ? I will follow your approach.
I could not resist and tried the sound of different RPi boards as no matter what software I tried my Alix1D/Sotm/Mpdpup legacy system was more natural, more air, better tone...even with Ian Fifopi, battery and pulsar clocks...all on soekris dac with i2s while the alix goes over UsB.
This is completely subjective observation, only true in my system with my ears, but I did this for a couple of days at dofferent times of the day, so that i do not fool myself completely:
Rp4: Stiff, clean, technical
Rp3b: less stressed, warmer, but somehow fuzzy, a bit weird sounding, not as clear as RP4
Allo Usbridge: Less clear in the beginning than RP4, but opens up. No weird sound, seems to make less errors than the other boards, really quiet musical and involving, a real serious challenger of my existing setup. Needs still to open up a bit (Dietpi with Mpd)
Now, you can argue why spend so much money on it compared to a RPi...well, the difference between a crystek and the pulsar is less than the difference between the allo board and the normal RPi. So, if you want a better bang for the buck, I would recommend it.
I could not resist and tried the sound of different RPi boards as no matter what software I tried my Alix1D/Sotm/Mpdpup legacy system was more natural, more air, better tone...even with Ian Fifopi, battery and pulsar clocks...all on soekris dac with i2s while the alix goes over UsB.
This is completely subjective observation, only true in my system with my ears, but I did this for a couple of days at dofferent times of the day, so that i do not fool myself completely:
Rp4: Stiff, clean, technical
Rp3b: less stressed, warmer, but somehow fuzzy, a bit weird sounding, not as clear as RP4
Allo Usbridge: Less clear in the beginning than RP4, but opens up. No weird sound, seems to make less errors than the other boards, really quiet musical and involving, a real serious challenger of my existing setup. Needs still to open up a bit (Dietpi with Mpd)
Now, you can argue why spend so much money on it compared to a RPi...well, the difference between a crystek and the pulsar is less than the difference between the allo board and the normal RPi. So, if you want a better bang for the buck, I would recommend it.
Removing the caps is an interesting mod.
I know for when I was modding my soekris dac to feed it lifepo4 power, I removed electrolytic caps. It was better like that.
Will need to try removing some caps on my ian stack and see how it sounds.
I know for when I was modding my soekris dac to feed it lifepo4 power, I removed electrolytic caps. It was better like that.
Will need to try removing some caps on my ian stack and see how it sounds.
Which soekris did you modded like that ? I got the dam 1941 and consider a battery mod (Ians bat supply) but not sure if i can do that as the dac wants 5v input normally...
I'm using Regulators from DiyInHk, no battery, may with battery the Result of removing the Caps are different. I would suggest to start with the I/V Board to get an Idea. In case of transformer board I would start with the DAC Board, there are 3 Caps for each Rail. May be start with the Analog Part of the Dac Board so lift only one of these three caps.
Regards
Marcus
Regards
Marcus
Hi Umarkus,
I start with those as well...diyinhk...moving to salas ultrabib 1.3 was eyeopening...big difference...at least for the dac. The battery stuff from ian is simply there as i wanted to try...i have not yet an opion on that, but it is good, but not like i would say it is theholy grail. diyinhk vs. salas is a clear game.
I start with those as well...diyinhk...moving to salas ultrabib 1.3 was eyeopening...big difference...at least for the dac. The battery stuff from ian is simply there as i wanted to try...i have not yet an opion on that, but it is good, but not like i would say it is theholy grail. diyinhk vs. salas is a clear game.
@Blitz
Do you use 1x positive Ubib on the dac @5V.? I guess not 3 positive 3v3 for the seperate rails as Ubib does not go down that low?
I was considering using my Ubib +/- for the IVSTD opamps.
Do you use 1x positive Ubib on the dac @5V.? I guess not 3 positive 3v3 for the seperate rails as Ubib does not go down that low?
I was considering using my Ubib +/- for the IVSTD opamps.
Have a look here...some people use five of them, i use three:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ven...24-bit-384-khz-dac-module-23.html#post6182466
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ven...24-bit-384-khz-dac-module-23.html#post6182466
Hi, thx for the hint. If there are still some Boards available I will give it a try. Already send a message to tea-bag 🙂
The DiyInHk (0.56µV) boards sounds much better if there is no big cap in the output line. I also removed the OnBoard 1000µF, only keep the 4.7µF WIMA.
Regards
Marcus
Hi everyone,
I got the Accusilicon clocks today.
I put them in and the X01 led flashes once then off. X02 led stays on. (see jpg)
Is it normal?
I then turned off the whole thing and put the original stock clocks back in; same thing: X01 LED flashes once then off and X02 LED stays on.
I remember the stock clocks had both leds on all the time.
It plays back music as usual.
Any idea?
How to tell it is using the new clocks correctly?
I got the Accusilicon clocks today.
I put them in and the X01 led flashes once then off. X02 led stays on. (see jpg)
Is it normal?
I then turned off the whole thing and put the original stock clocks back in; same thing: X01 LED flashes once then off and X02 LED stays on.
I remember the stock clocks had both leds on all the time.
It plays back music as usual.
Any idea?
How to tell it is using the new clocks correctly?
Attachments
The clock light LED changes depending on material playing, in your pic X01 would light if you were playing 44.1KHz.
oh thanks. I playbacked a 44.1 song and it lit up. Relieved.
Let me burn in the Accusilicon clocks for couple days and report back.
Thank you very much.
Let me burn in the Accusilicon clocks for couple days and report back.
Thank you very much.
I've spent the weekend splitting the DAC from the FIFO with a view to fitting into a 2U case.
I wired it up for i2S as per this image plus the MCLK coax.
This did not work, but using a 40 pin ribbon cable did. There must be more connections required than just DATA, SCK, LRCK + GND. ??
I'm using an Allo USBridge Sig rather than a Pi though I suspect this makes no difference.
I wired it up for i2S as per this image plus the MCLK coax.
This did not work, but using a 40 pin ribbon cable did. There must be more connections required than just DATA, SCK, LRCK + GND. ??
I'm using an Allo USBridge Sig rather than a Pi though I suspect this makes no difference.
This is the I2S interface for the Gustard A-22. From the manual of IAN's Transport Pi it looks a bit different. Can someone confirm will it work with the transport Pi.
Hi .
Transport Pi designed for PS Audio I have to reverse polarity 2 pairs of 1,3 and 7,9 fiber HDMI cables for compatibility with Gustard X26.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Last edited:
This is the I2S interface for the Gustard A-22. From the manual of IAN's Transport Pi it looks a bit different. Can someone confirm will it work with the transport Pi.
Add :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
