I think you and I have a very different definition of the word "fact". I think your usage is more close to the word "belief".
This is not belief but simple physics.
Now all my cd’s are ripped and I use streaming exclusively but in the past I have also used the Furutech demagnetiser and it really helps.
I have been designing cd players in the past and found that static electricity and small magnetic fields near the laser unit influence the servo system of the laser unit. As you probably know the servo system works with coils that pick up electromagnetic fields.
The aluminium layer is slightly prone to magnetism and this is erased when using the demagnetiser, it will also lower the static load.
The same phenomenom appears for all the cd loaders that use a magnet clamping system. Removing the magnet (changing it for a heavier weight puck) does have a big effect on the ability of the laser to read the data with less faults.
All this is crucial for a real time process of playing a cd, I do not know if it effects a ripping process because this process is not real time and the data can be read again and again untill it is correct.
This is not belief but simple physics.
Physics is a science - based on evidence. Not speculation. Stating a theory is only the first step. The next step is to verify the theory by actual evidence. So far all you have provided is unverified speculation.
You claim that you have found that static electricity and small magnetic fields near the laser unit influence the servo system of the laser unit. Can you please share with us how you have found and verified that?
Physics is a science - based on evidence.
Julf,
Probably better just to drop it. Arguments can't be won and people can't be convinced by the type of statements you are making. If people have already firmly made up their minds about what they believe, then arguing often just makes it worse. Please see 'backfire effect,' etc. Belief perseverance - Wikipedia
Julf,
Probably better just to drop it. Arguments can't be won and people can't be convinced by the type of statements you are making. If people have already firmly made up their minds about what they believe, then arguing often just makes it worse. Please see 'backfire effect,' etc. Belief perseverance - Wikipedia
You are right - and the whole demagnetizing woo has nothing to do with I2S and FIFOs anyway, so yes, enough on that one.
I can execute normally: aplay -D plughw:1,0 5.wav -v, where 5.wav is 16bits bit depth and 44.1KHz.
When I execute "aplay -D plughw:1,0 6.wav -v", where 6.wav is 24bits bit depth and 352.8KHz, the system displays:
Code:Playing WAVE '6.wav' : Signed 24 bit Little Endian in 3bytes, Rate 352800 Hz, St ereo aplay: set_params:1297: Unable to install hw params: ACCESS: RW_INTERLEAVED FORMAT: S24_3LE SUBFORMAT: STD SAMPLE_BITS: 24 FRAME_BITS: 48 CHANNELS: 2 RATE: NONE PERIOD_TIME: (85333 85334) PERIOD_SIZE: (30105 30106) PERIOD_BYTES: (180630 180636) PERIODS: (3 5) BUFFER_TIME: (341332 341333) BUFFER_SIZE: 120422 BUFFER_BYTES: 722532 TICK_TIME: 0
It seems that the hardware of my pi itself does not support more than 16bits.
In this case the problem is the file format S24_3LE, that's not a standard 24bit format which ALSA supports, it should be S24_LE.
You can try speaker-test and pass it -F S24_LE to force 24bit format. Also, the driver is probably limited to 192 khz.
Moving on . . . . 😉
I have a problem fitting theBuffalo I/V board adapter to
the Mercury I/V board. One tab sits on a capacitor
preventing the adapter from seating properly.
I'm considering cutting off the one corner leaving
three to support Ian's dual ESS dac.
-ICHI
I have a problem fitting theBuffalo I/V board adapter to
the Mercury I/V board. One tab sits on a capacitor
preventing the adapter from seating properly.
I'm considering cutting off the one corner leaving
three to support Ian's dual ESS dac.
-ICHI
Attachments
I found that I can play normally mp3 or WEB RADIO without resampling. This seems to mean that my problem is not in the DAC, the problem is that my PI can't directly handle higher high resolution WAV files?
AFAIK for some the reason the codec that is used to decode MP3 files (and perhaps other lossy codecs) always outputs 24bit audio. That might be why that is working for you.
All this is crucial for a real time process of playing a cd, I do not know if it effects a ripping process because this process is not real time and the data can be read again and again untill it is correct.
CD drive that perform CD rip and CD transport will also be read correctly by the CD. Even if the CD rip repeatedly reads the CD many times, the CD may be magnetically inconsistent with each reading, but it will not be read correctly until CD demagnetized by demagnetizer. The difference between before and after of demagnetized CD is huge. I don't have to compare it in hexadecimal format Files, even files are not the same size. For demagnetized CD, the WAV file has become significantly larger, with an increase of 120KB. I guess it should be because of the more details recorded.
If I can, I try to upload the music files without loss and let everyone go back and listen.
You do know that CDs are optical mediums, not magnetic like tapes? Here is a nice description on why the rips differ and how you might improve the results (spoiler: some CD drives work better than others) https://john-millikin.com/🤔/error-beneath-the-wavs
CD drive that perform CD rip and CD transport will also be read correctly by the CD. Even if the CD rip repeatedly reads the CD many times, the CD may be magnetically inconsistent with each reading, but it will not be read correctly until CD demagnetized by demagnetizer. The difference between before and after of demagnetized CD is huge. I don't have to compare it in hexadecimal format Files, even files are not the same size. For demagnetized CD, the WAV file has become significantly larger, with an increase of 120KB. I guess it should be because of the more details recorded.
If I can, I try to upload the music files without loss and let everyone go back and listen.
So what does this have to do with Ian's FIFO kit?
I don't have to compare it in hexadecimal format Files, even files are not the same size. For demagnetized CD, the WAV file has become significantly larger, with an increase of 120KB. I guess it should be because of the more details recorded.
You clearly don't understand how it actually works. If the files are not the same size, you are doing something wrong. Even if the drive would read an all-zeroes result every time, the file would still be exactly the same size. 0s and 1s take exactly the same size in uncompressed LPCM formats - the size of the file is totally determined by 3 factors - the number of bits per sample, the sample rate and the length of the track.
I gave up uploading the file. I try to use several verification codes, such as MD5, SHA1 and CRC32, provided by HashMyFiles, to show that different means of CD rip can get different WAV files with different senses of hearing. As shown in the figure, it can be clearly seen that there are three groups that are significantly different, but in the same group, even if the verification codes are the same, the actual hearing sense still has extremely small differences.
In these three groups, one of them is ripped by CD driver PIONEER bdr-s09xlt, and the other two are the same CD driver PIONEER BDR-S12J-X, which is divided into with demagnetized and without demagnetized.

The evidence is here. If the evidence I provide is suspected of being fraudulent, there is nothing to discuss. Because the facts speak louder than words. If you really want to explore the truth, you can only verify it by actually buying the item what I mentioned.
Regarding the CD with magnetic, Tvicol, who specializes in the CD player for a long time, he has a few points in the discussion thread.
Best conversion of old CD's to lossless?
In these three groups, one of them is ripped by CD driver PIONEER bdr-s09xlt, and the other two are the same CD driver PIONEER BDR-S12J-X, which is divided into with demagnetized and without demagnetized.

The evidence is here. If the evidence I provide is suspected of being fraudulent, there is nothing to discuss. Because the facts speak louder than words. If you really want to explore the truth, you can only verify it by actually buying the item what I mentioned.
Regarding the CD with magnetic, Tvicol, who specializes in the CD player for a long time, he has a few points in the discussion thread.
Best conversion of old CD's to lossless?
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So what does this have to do with Ian's FIFO kit?
Seeing you say this, I know that your understanding of reclock is limited, so I suggest you spend a little more time to really understand reclock, or let go of the self-righteous gesture, others will take the time to explain to you. In contrast, your attitude, no one is willing to spend time to teach you, because you think you understand, what else do you need to be taught?
Reclock can only present the result of CD rip more faithfully. The ripped file cannot and will not be changed by reclock, of course, it will not improve rip result.
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When you rip a CD using well known tools like dbpoweramp that uses the accurateRip to identify if the CRC matches other rips of the same CD pressing. That tells you that you most certainly have your rip the same as someone else (that could be many tens of rips with same CRC in their DB) and it is not by chance you're getting a CRC value which is identical. This means your rip is as good as it gets and if your file is bigger every time you rip it then something is wrong... There could be some explanation like ripping to WAV and FLAC which are both lossless format but will differ in size.
Then there's this thing called CD demagnetize... I understand that static electricity could potentially have effects on older equipment but a CD is all plastic and most likely get only static electricity... How can it get magnetize though? A magnetic field could potentially play with the magnetic field of the lens focus magnet coil inside the laser housing but that would require metal like on a cassette tape which use metal particles on the tape... This housing is most likely shielded as well.
Please correct me if I'm wrong
Do
Then there's this thing called CD demagnetize... I understand that static electricity could potentially have effects on older equipment but a CD is all plastic and most likely get only static electricity... How can it get magnetize though? A magnetic field could potentially play with the magnetic field of the lens focus magnet coil inside the laser housing but that would require metal like on a cassette tape which use metal particles on the tape... This housing is most likely shielded as well.
Please correct me if I'm wrong
Do
Seeing you say this, I know that your understanding of reclock is limited, so I suggest you spend a little more time to really understand reclock, or let go of the self-righteous gesture, others will take the time to explain to you. In contrast, your attitude, no one is willing to spend time to teach you, because you think you understand, what else do you need to be taught?
Have you ever heard the expression "ad hominem"?
This still has nothing to do with FIFOs and reclocking (something I am very familiar with professionally).
even if the verification codes are the same, the actual hearing sense still has extremely small differences.
Thanks. I think that indeed proves things - it proves that the issue is in what you are hearing, not the files. There are of course lots of explanations for why identical files can be perceived differently in sighted listening, but none of them are related to magnetism (not to mention clocking of FIFOs) in any way. I guess we can declare the case closed.
.... even if the verification codes are the same, the actual hearing sense still has extremely small differences.....
By this statement, you just disqualified all your past and future posts as being factual, as it clearly shows that you are either guessing or is just plain ignorant.
//
Moving on . . . . 😉
I have a problem fitting theBuffalo I/V board adapter to
the Mercury I/V board. One tab sits on a capacitor
preventing the adapter from seating properly.
I'm considering cutting off the one corner leaving
three to support Ian's dual ESS dac.
-ICHI
@ichiban,
In planning my own use of these adapters, I have been planning to put the adapter on top of the stack of RPi -> FiFoPi -> Ian's GB DAC and then the TP I/V stage on top of that.
You're planning to do it differently?
Greg in Mississippi
Ah. I see you have the connectors coming out of the top (component side) of the Mercury. ALL of the TP I/V boards I have here have the connectors coming out of the bottom side of the board.
You COULD cut off that ear, but then you lose mounting that I/V board in all four corners. I'd suggest either moving the connectors to the bottom side, moving the caps to the bottom side, or finding equivalent, but shorter caps.
Ian even includes new connectors you can use to mount on your boards. JUST be careful removing the old connectors (or caps)... In my experience, those pads are pretty fragile on the TP boards. I like to load up the connections with lots of solder (to be able to reach them all with a single soldering iron tip), then use that tip to heat them all up at the same time and push them out. OR you can cut the connector ends off and heat / push them one at a time and then replace it. OR pull the plastic spacer off, do the same, put the spacer back on, and reuse them.
NONE of my TP I/V board builds would fit on that adapter with the connectors on the top side of the board!
Greg in Mississippi
You COULD cut off that ear, but then you lose mounting that I/V board in all four corners. I'd suggest either moving the connectors to the bottom side, moving the caps to the bottom side, or finding equivalent, but shorter caps.
Ian even includes new connectors you can use to mount on your boards. JUST be careful removing the old connectors (or caps)... In my experience, those pads are pretty fragile on the TP boards. I like to load up the connections with lots of solder (to be able to reach them all with a single soldering iron tip), then use that tip to heat them all up at the same time and push them out. OR you can cut the connector ends off and heat / push them one at a time and then replace it. OR pull the plastic spacer off, do the same, put the spacer back on, and reuse them.
NONE of my TP I/V board builds would fit on that adapter with the connectors on the top side of the board!
Greg in Mississippi
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