I got my new lamp. It is for commercial projection use. people use it to replace the

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#1,361
lamp removal, cement and replacement on lp350

Hi all: I received my new lamp from YWH and have been attempting to remove the cement holding the lamp in. I have 3 questions.
1)I tried soaking the whole reflector assembly in water as suggested in other threads to no avail. My first problem is removing the clear glass lens/cover on the reflector assembly. It is held on with cement under the lens and I cannot find any tool small enough to scrape under the lens to remove the cement. I tried fileing down a needle to as fine a point as I could make with no success. How the heck do other people do this?
2nd) Once I get that off I will have to remove the lamp itself from the ceramic reflector assembly. Once again it is cemented in and the cement is as hard as a rock. Scraping at it with an X-acto knife does nothing. Any advice would be appreciated.
3rd) Has anyone used black furnace cement for holding their lamps in place? I am sure the temperature will be fine, but is the original cement designed to transfer heat to the reflector assembly as CPU thermal cement does? Or is this not necessary. I received a tiny bag of cement from YWH but it may not be enough.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Stampee
 
#1,362
Hi AGM
to find a rheostat on the ballast, turn it and test the voltage at the same time,when the color is OK and the voltage is in 60-90v, that is OK.
dont overstep 60-90v, change the color is OK.

I have tested and its 73V

Hi Cyclop !
JYD lamps are still available.


Hi Stampee!
1)I tried soaking the whole reflector assembly in water as suggested in other threads to no avail. My first problem is removing the clear glass lens/cover on the reflector assembly. It is held on with cement under the lens and I cannot find any tool small enough to scrape under the lens to remove the cement. I tried fileing down a needle to as fine a point as I could make with no success. How the heck do other people do this?
---you can cut or slash the glue with a fit narrow knife, or shave. I have no reflector of 340, but it is like.
 

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#1,363
ywh

ywh,

I'm almost set to get another lamp for you for my Boxlight 3700 but I have a question. If I get a DC-type lamp and the ballast was designed for AC (or the opposite) , what will happen?

I am having 2nd thoughts on how to see if my ballst powers an AC lamp or a DC lamp since when I got the projector, the bulb had already broken off the ceramic holder.

Victor
 
#1,364
2nd) Once I get that off I will have to remove the lamp itself from the ceramic reflector assembly. Once again it is cemented in and the cement is as hard as a rock. Scraping at it with an X-acto knife does nothing. Any advice would be appreciated.
£­£­£­£­you can scrap the cement cover, dig the cement around bulb.



3rd) Has anyone used black furnace cement for holding their
lamps in place? I am sure the temperature will be fine, but is the original cement designed to transfer heat to the reflector assembly as CPU thermal cement does? Or is this not necessary. I received a tiny bag of cement from YWH but it may not be enough.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
---- cement is enough for this type lamp. only around a end bulb.
 

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#1,366
Re: ywh

victor-eyd said:
ywh,

I'm almost set to get another lamp for you for my Boxlight 3700 but I have a question. If I get a DC-type lamp and the ballast was designed for AC (or the opposite) , what will happen?
-----the bulb will be burned

I am having 2nd thoughts on how to see if my ballst powers an AC lamp or a DC lamp since when I got the projector, the bulb had already broken off the ceramic holder.
-----test the voltage when you power off the ballast for a moment

Victor
Click to expand...
 
#1,367
Infocus X2 - 150w DC SHP bulb

Hi folks.

I have found this site with google, and I am hoping I might have found what I am looking for.

I am trying to find someone that can supply the Phillips bulbs that are used to make the lamp modules for projectors.

The bulb I need is for an Infocus X2 projector, it is a 150W SHP bulb and I understand that is it made by Phillips.

If someone could please point me in the direction of someone who sells bare bulbs - as opposed to "lamp modules", that would be really kind. If these bulbs are NOT available, then a suitable replacement would be fine - even if slightly dimmer / slightly shorter life time.

Kind Regards

Mark
 
#1,369
#1,372
Bulb

Please can you tell me how I can order from you - I tried to PM you but I am still not alowed to contact folks directly yet - so would you please pop ME an email - exmark@lineisp.com

180w instead of 200w doesn't seem so bad to me - and on the basis that the last bulb didn't last anywhere near its rated life, I would guess if I work on the basis that the new one will onyly last half rated life - but operate in full mode instead of economy, I guess the brightness will still be perfectly adequate for my needs

Very many thanks for your input - and please pop me a note telling me the price / how to pay etc.

Mark
 
#1,375
Hi !!

I bought last week a NEC LT81 DLP projector with a lamp with 1100 hours (It's a 280-watt metal halide lamp with an air filter. NEC guarantees the lamp for 1000 hours or 6 months.)

According the replacement pdf file, the new one I need is a JYs275/A.C.

Good news ... I now know witch bulb I have to buy ...

BUT when I have a better look to the replacement pdf file, I also read

NEC LT100 --> JYs275/D.C. !!

It is very strange because, it is exactly the same lamp in the NEC LT100 and the NEC LT81 !!
( as here for example )


So do I need a DC or a AC bulb for my LT81 ??

Thanks in advance and let me know if you need more info.

(sorry for my poor english, I'm french ...)
 
#1,376
I need a new projector bulb...

ywh,

Hello the bulb on my NEC LT260 projector is getting towards the end of it's usable life.

Are there replacement bulbs available for relamping?

The correct replacement bulb is a 220W NSH part number LT60LPK.

The only replacement bulb I can find is a 180W SHP type but I understand this will not work? Is there some sort of other bulb that will work?

Thanks for your help as this is all very confusing.
 
#1,377
Hello, thank you for the helpful info so far – and I would like to order a couple of bulbs for the Infocus projector please – on the basis that I then have a spare for next time.

I did go to the website - but as I was wanting to ask a final question - and also wondered if I needed to add anything extra for internation carriage I am still stuck.

Incidentally, the bulb did have a single wrap of wire going around it – as reading your FAQ, that seems to be important.

I am in the UK, so I am guessing I need to add something to the Cart to increase the amount charged for carriage. Please can you tell me how much extra to add for bunging it over the puddle for me.

You mentioned I needed the 180w SHP, or the JYS/DC, I am a little confused as you seem to sell the 200w rated one, but seem to suggest I should get the 180w. I am more than happy to bow to your knowledge but I am intrigued as to why it is best to get the 180w instead of the 200w unit

As I said, I would like to buy two bulbs please, I would like to buy both the 180W SHP and also the JYS/DC – I will then install the dearer one and keep the cheaper one for a spare.

Please let me know how much extra to send you for P&P for two bulbs to the UK – and also how I go about adding that amount at the checkout. If you really do not like sending to the UK, I am prepared to order two additional bulbs for another projector (family members) which will need a bulb sooner or later if it helps to make it worth your while to help me out. This projector is an Optoma EP 739 DLP using a 200W SHP lamp.


Very many thanks.


Kind Regards

Mark


PS: something that *may* be of interest to folks is that if the reflector has a little of the silvering missing (I think usually aluminium these days), then you CAN re-silver them. Although silver can tarnish, pure silver does not tarnish as much - and placing a small bit of white "chalk" in the housing can help prevent tarnishing too.

If anyone is interested in the DIY re-silvering of glass let me know and I will post the "recipe" on here. It isn't difficult, though it isn't cheap. Silver nitrate is also toxic, so usuall handling precautions would need to apply.

In my case, there is only a small amount missing so rather than silver the entire bulb, I am just going to use the solution at the very bottom where a little of the original has flaked off.
 
#1,378
Hi meck11
uhp 180w is OK, you need jyd/ac 200w.

Hi MattMarttigan
it is a 280-watt metal halide DC lamp , the replacement pdf file is not right.

Hi classicradio
180W SHP is not best choose, JYS/DC is best.

Hi guymark
180W SHP is best if you turn on economical model of lamp.
it is not cheaper, $100, each, include shipping and cement.
 
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