I AM D v200, Fx Audio d802, optimisation and TPA3116

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I built a new desktop puter with an i7 and Asus Z97 motherboard with internal spdif out.
Connected it to my D802 and the output is much better than Toslink from my laptop.
The noise is gone.
Im not sure if it sounds better, could be distorsion also.
On vacation now so I did'nt have time to listen.
My son is happy with the upgrade anyway. :)
 
I looked at the doc for the internal Realtec ALC892 at my Asus Z97-A motherboard and maybe the internal SPDIF it's programed at high level output.
Don't realy understand what low level is?
Anyway, I don't have any noise problems anymoore.
My old laptop, still not to old, it's an i7 dont put out same volume via Toslink.
Asus_zpss5nyyn20.png
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Anyway, I replaced the XL2596 for a Pololu 12V, 2.2A Step-Down Voltage Regulator D24V22F12. Way less ripple/noise but still not as quiet as a linear reg. No heat though which I like more as the switcher is working as long as the 32V adapter is plugged in...

I promised a picture. 40 mV peak-peak is better than it was before (100 mV peak-peak with the XL2596) but I wish it was better.
 

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Happy = good

Meanwhile I improved some things in my D802. I shielded the Pololu regulator board only to discover the D802 itself slightly emits some EMI at the speaker outputs. This is only when speakers are connected. As I coincidently had another device emitting EMI I had hard time as even the optical communication stopped. The other device was switched off and the slight EMI the D802 emits no longer was a real problem. Now my attention goes to the other device which was supposedly a quality product but it is a real transmitter. Its tiny PSU is so noisy that when I keep it near the D802 the display of the D802 is flashing !!

* Correct resistor values for when you want to use green LEDs are 330 Ohm and 2k2 in 0805 size.

With 14 mV RMS ripple at the 12V line I really should not complain and I see this as a finished modification. It sounds very good. FX Audio and North Flat Japan have released a new version for the japanese market. It is called D802J. When looking at the D802J i don't see much difference except that the PCB is white but it still is the 2014 revision so the new version still has the XL2596.
 
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Hi.

I have same problem as Solve with my D802. Listening close to speakers (~1m, 93 db speakers). Noise/hiss is so huge. Practically unusable. Automatic mute on no signal makes this even worse. Hiss - silent - hiss - silent...

Noise is constant. It is not amplified. Low volume (1) or max volume (100) no difference at all. Tried USB input and toslink (toslink with asus xonar dg and with panasonic tv). Same hiss. No difference. Tried muptiple PC with USB input, same result.

Only difference makes supply voltage. 24V less hiss than 32V. 12V much less than 24V.

Can replacing xl2596 for linear regulator help (like globulegl did)? Or this is different problem?
 
Thanks for response.

I did remove xl2596 (lm2596 in my case) and then simple put battery on Vout and GND pin but result is still bad. Maybe litte bit better? Did not really help.

I also tried different speakers (less sensitive) but same result. Also tried powering amp just from batteries (main supply from one battery, logic rail from another, signal over toslink). Same result. Also moved amp away from other electronics - same result.

What may affect noise floor?

Any other amplifier is "silent" compared to my D802 :/
 
Hi ntdrt,

yes if you remplace the xl2596 by a linear regular the noise is lower. If you change the power supply the different is not very important.

I replace both the LM317 for 3.3v and 5v with pin compatible LT3088 ultralow noise regulator, and it still fairly noisy if I get my ears close. But since my speaker is fairly low sensitive, can't really hear it from a meter away.
 
Happy = good

Meanwhile I improved some things in my D802. I shielded the Pololu regulator board only to discover the D802 itself slightly emits some EMI at the speaker outputs. This is only when speakers are connected. As I coincidently had another device emitting EMI I had hard time as even the optical communication stopped. The other device was switched off and the slight EMI the D802 emits no longer was a real problem. Now my attention goes to the other device which was supposedly a quality product but it is a real transmitter. Its tiny PSU is so noisy that when I keep it near the D802 the display of the D802 is flashing !!

* Correct resistor values for when you want to use green LEDs are 330 Ohm and 2k2 in 0805 size.

With 14 mV RMS ripple at the 12V line I really should not complain and I see this as a finished modification. It sounds very good. FX Audio and North Flat Japan have released a new version for the japanese market. It is called D802J. When looking at the D802J i don't see much difference except that the PCB is white but it still is the 2014 revision so the new version still has the XL2596.

I wonder if the output filter can be improved. The D802 filter is much more simpler than the one in the datasheet.
D802 is missing 2 snubber to ground (before and after inductor) and several filter caps.

Another concern is all the smd caps around the sta326, since the D802 can get quite warm on the heat sink, as temperature goes up, the smd capacitance goes down depending on the smd cap quality.
 

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Hi ! A real pleasure to read this topic :) I've got questions to automate some actions on my V200.9.6 with an arduino: 1 - Is there any way to know the current input source and volume level ? 2 - Is there any serial communication available on the main board ? 3 - Any ideas to simulate input source change or volume change directly on the main board (otherwise I will try with IR...) 4 - What is the "VRTG" port ? Thanks !
 
Wow strange text presentation ! I can't edit my previous message so, let's try again :
A real pleasure to read this topic :)
I've got questions to automate some actions on my V200.9.6 with an arduino:


  1. Is there any way to know the current input source and volume level ?
  2. Is there any serial communication available on the main board ?
  3. Any ideas to simulate input source change or volume change directly on the main board (otherwise I will try with IR...)
  4. What is the "VRTG" port ?

Thanks !
 
Too much. Absolute max. voltage for STA326 is 36V... Using that 36V PSU will destroy D802 and it is no fun replacing STA326.

IMO it sounds slightly better with a 24V PSU.

Thanks! JP.

I have 24 volt PS somewhere too.

I did Globulegi's rectifier mod, and it is playing beautifully right now. Only difference is that I did not have a bigger cap so left the original in place.
 
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