Yes, hacking into the existing I2S lines is an option, but this is rather tricky with the D802.
You probably don't want to hear this, but if you need to add a direct I2S input to a Full-Digital-Amp, then the V200 is an easier option since it provides "Auxiliary" I2S input connection points on the PCB. And I can confirm that the "Auxiliary" input is selectable via the V200's remote control.
You probably don't want to hear this, but if you need to add a direct I2S input to a Full-Digital-Amp, then the V200 is an easier option since it provides "Auxiliary" I2S input connection points on the PCB. And I can confirm that the "Auxiliary" input is selectable via the V200's remote control.
On the contrary, I have an open mind at the moment between d802 and v200. I have established that, to my ears, the d802 sounds better when using the spdif/coax input. I haven't established which I prefer using USB or direct i2s.
Regretably the current v200 amps seem have lost the easy i2s connection points although Mikey has published an alternative method. Probably someone with more of a clue than me will find an i2s solution on the d802 long before I get to the stage of poking around myself. I am thinking that I should perhaps have got the wireless version of the d802 so I have an unwanted source that could be ripped out and its i2s line used.
Nothing to do with gplden ears. If you use an i2s connection you are essentially doing Source i2s --> Amp i2s. If you use spdif you are doing Source i2s -> Source spdif -> Amp spdif -> amp i2s i.e. you have two extra conversions.
Whether that is audible is going to depend on how well implemented your spdif interfaces are and indeed how well the i2s connection is implemented. And how deaf you are etc.
I followed globulelg's recommendations and use the i2s connection on the v200. The difference in SQ is noticeable (to my ears) . As explained by globulelg, the spdif chip in the V200 is not great. Anyway, since I use i2s out of a xmos multichannel USB card, it is simpler as well to feed the V200 directly with i2s. Practical considerations, such as cable length, etc..should also be taken into account.
I have two v200 (bi-amping) one of the older models with the i2s port, and the newer one without. The connection on the newer model is straightforward as well.
For the d802 it would make sense to check out the specs of the spdif first.
I have two v200 (bi-amping) one of the older models with the i2s port, and the newer one without. The connection on the newer model is straightforward as well.
For the d802 it would make sense to check out the specs of the spdif first.
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Hello,
On the D802, the SPDIF chip is an AK4113 which has been stated above to be a good one. For my purpose, I decided that I would use the SPDIF input, and not try to kack the I2S. On the D802, my understanding is that the esiest is to "cut" the link to the chip that selects the input of the USB (for example), and solder there the external I2S.
Whan I look to those amps, I sort of dream of an open source software on those amps. For the little strory, I also control some RC planes. A great guy took a basic 50$ chinese RC transmitter, and recogonised that it was Analog/Digital inputs, a screen, a microcontroller. He added a small programmer and retroengineered the software. The open source community then developped the best ever developped software for a RC transmitter (my opinion), with great concepts and unparalleled flexibility. This has been an immense success, with some champions using that, and manufacturers now proposing products using that software:
Welcome to OpenTX
Turnigy 9X 9Ch Transmitter w/ Module & 8ch Receiver (Mode 1) (v2 Firmware)
Imagine the same with a D802, possibility to reprogram to add other inputs, suppress the crappy EQ modes, allow to replace by your own and use all features from the STA326 associated MCU.
I have to stop dreaming, as I don't have the skills to develop such a thing.
However, I think that except for power level STM32 boards + (http://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/...o-cca01m1.html + provided software libs bring very near from that idea. Only limitation is the power
JMF
On the D802, the SPDIF chip is an AK4113 which has been stated above to be a good one. For my purpose, I decided that I would use the SPDIF input, and not try to kack the I2S. On the D802, my understanding is that the esiest is to "cut" the link to the chip that selects the input of the USB (for example), and solder there the external I2S.
Whan I look to those amps, I sort of dream of an open source software on those amps. For the little strory, I also control some RC planes. A great guy took a basic 50$ chinese RC transmitter, and recogonised that it was Analog/Digital inputs, a screen, a microcontroller. He added a small programmer and retroengineered the software. The open source community then developped the best ever developped software for a RC transmitter (my opinion), with great concepts and unparalleled flexibility. This has been an immense success, with some champions using that, and manufacturers now proposing products using that software:
Welcome to OpenTX
Turnigy 9X 9Ch Transmitter w/ Module & 8ch Receiver (Mode 1) (v2 Firmware)
Imagine the same with a D802, possibility to reprogram to add other inputs, suppress the crappy EQ modes, allow to replace by your own and use all features from the STA326 associated MCU.
I have to stop dreaming, as I don't have the skills to develop such a thing.
However, I think that except for power level STM32 boards + (http://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/...o-cca01m1.html + provided software libs bring very near from that idea. Only limitation is the power
JMF
Hi Peter !!
Yes i can. My enghish is very very bad but i can t explain to you when i go back , because i am in holiday now. I make pict , draws and explications.
You can write it in french if translating causes you a headache, we'll understand. I do like your mods (but think work can be tidier ), keep on the good work Globulegi.
I saw Globulegi's mod on the 12V PSU of the D802 and I think this might be a good solution for the proposed 7812 heat generator:
https://www.pololu.com/product/2855
Ordered one to try out...
), keep on the good work Globulegi.I saw Globulegi's mod on the 12V PSU of the D802 and I think this might be a good solution for the proposed 7812 heat generator:
https://www.pololu.com/product/2855
Ordered one to try out...
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You can write it in french if translating causes you a headache, we'll understand. I do like your mods (but think work can be tidier
+1 (On se debrouille)
If my memory serves me, I think you remove the back 4 screws and the front 4 screws and you should pull out the board. You might need to pull out the volume knob and unscrew another ring screw ... or something like that.
Thanks, there was some red glue like stuff on the ring of the encoder. It needed some light violence to get the nut loose.
Anyway, I replaced the XL2596 for a Pololu 12V, 2.2A Step-Down Voltage Regulator D24V22F12. Way less ripple/noise but still not as quiet as a linear reg. No heat though which I like more as the switcher is working as long as the 32V adapter is plugged in...
Also a 75 Ohm BNC like always and Pana FC for the 1800/35. Replaced the red LEDs for green ones only to discover the power on LED glows much less than the "mute" LED which really is the "speaker on" indicator. Never liked red LEDs for indication of stuff that is OK. We use red here only for errors etc. If you replace them please note that the "mute" is connected to 12V via a 1k resistor and the power on LED is connected to 3.3V via a 470 Ohm resistor. I did not have one in stock but with standard green LEDs the 470 Ohm must be replaced for a 330 Ohm. The 1 kOhm can be replaced for a 1k5 one. I hope I find some time today to measure it some more and listen to it.
My D802 was very sensitive to the angle the remote was held. The infrared receiver was soldered in in an angle. A PCB was pushing it backward. Resoldered it and now it is fine.
Anyway, I replaced the XL2596 for a Pololu 12V, 2.2A Step-Down Voltage Regulator D24V22F12. Way less ripple/noise but still not as quiet as a linear reg. No heat though which I like more as the switcher is working as long as the 32V adapter is plugged in...
Also a 75 Ohm BNC like always and Pana FC for the 1800/35. Replaced the red LEDs for green ones only to discover the power on LED glows much less than the "mute" LED which really is the "speaker on" indicator. Never liked red LEDs for indication of stuff that is OK. We use red here only for errors etc. If you replace them please note that the "mute" is connected to 12V via a 1k resistor and the power on LED is connected to 3.3V via a 470 Ohm resistor. I did not have one in stock but with standard green LEDs the 470 Ohm must be replaced for a 330 Ohm. The 1 kOhm can be replaced for a 1k5 one. I hope I find some time today to measure it some more and listen to it.
My D802 was very sensitive to the angle the remote was held. The infrared receiver was soldered in in an angle. A PCB was pushing it backward. Resoldered it and now it is fine.
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Here is my modest setup: 2 V200 connected to a multi-channel USB card through I2S. Sounds good !
https://pslweb.informatick.net/_detail/v200.jpg?id=usb_to_i2s
I wish there was a way of synchronizing both V200 to a single remote, but that's a detail.
https://pslweb.informatick.net/_detail/v200.jpg?id=usb_to_i2s
I wish there was a way of synchronizing both V200 to a single remote, but that's a detail.
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Hello, very interesting solution. Tell me where to buy the module as you Micro USB to I2S. This module reads all the music from a flash drive? I am currently a good unit (player) for I2S.Which PSU you used to it?
Thank you very much! Please tell me a good player with access i2s. I've found that's just such a (FPGA Lossless Mastering Digital Turntable Player Ape FLAC WAV DSD 192K24BIT HiFi | eBay), but the price is not cheap.
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