How to build a 21st century protection board

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I've been experimenting with an ACS712 and solid state relay in place of rail fuses. It works, but gets expensive fast when doing stereo or multi-channel. Sensing current off the main transformer sounds like a neat idea, but is only useful for monoblock designs. I haven't had time to look into other options yet, but this is something I plan to do in the future.
 
That should work great. You can use one output winding for each board.

The bulk of the current draw in these is the relays. You won't be using a tube relay. The power and inrush relays are only both active for half a second, and your speaker relays are solid state which draw the same as an LED, so total draw will likely be under 250mA worst case.
 
your 30VA 12+12Vac transformer has a maximum continuous AC current of 1.25Aac

When feeding a capacitor input filter the maximum continuous DC current drops to about half, i.e. 612mAdc
If you want the transformer to run cool, then reduce your CONTINUOUS DC current to ~300mAdc.
That's a lot of continuous current to play with. Especially with 24V relays often drawing around 10 to 15mAdc, without a current reducing circuit.
 
They are high power relays.
1.9W through the coil, cf. small relays that are around 200 to 400mW.

A power saving circuit would be a good idea.
What voltage do they drop out at?
Will they hold in reliably at 50% current?

We have a pumped domestic water supply. The pumps are controlled with mains relays.
The one major failing was a relay coil burning out due to high dissipation in the coil. It was always the same relay. The householder that looked after the maintenance/service contractor suggested a different make of relay. Problem solved. The contractor did not even think about a solution to prevent breakdowns.
 
I actually burned a transformer up in my initial testing with these relays. This was the reason why we changed the software to shut off the inrush relay once the power relay energized. In my builds I use lower coil current relays.

I plan to explore controlling a power relay module over an I2C bus. This would make controlling dual monoblock designs much easier from a single control board. A power saving circuit would only require an extra resistor and some software modification to make it work.
 
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To test the control board. Fire it up without the rail powers connected and no bias or temp connections. It should go through the whole startup sequence, then when it is about to turn on the speaker relays, it should shut everything down and blink the LED at high speed. It will stay like this until you remove power from the control transformer or hit the reset button on the Arduino.

Next hook the rails to it and start it up again. It should go through the start up sequence, then turn the speaker relays on. Apply some voltage to the speaker connector. At around 2-3V everything should shut down and the LED should blink quickly again.

Restart it again and apply voltage to the bias connections. At around 4V the bias circuit should cause a shutdown, but this time the LED will blink at a slower rate.

Temp circuit operation can be tested by shorting the temp + and - connections together. This will again cause a shutdown and blink the LED at a different rate.

Power loss detection can be tested by quickly unplugging the control transformer and re-powering it. This again should cause a shut down, and blink the led at a different rate again.

Hi Jeff,

Today I tried to test the board with my little relay boards attached. I hooked up a +-36V SMPS to the power sense. The board runs through the sequence just as you described but after the speaker protect relays switch on then the whole thing shuts down and the LED blinks slowly. Are there any terminals that need to be shorted during testing?

Thanks, Terry
 
The board should operate without anything jumpered. 1 blink every two seconds means it's detecting a voltage loss in the 12V supply. Pin D9 on the Arduino should be Low. Q9 should pull it low. The base of 9 gets current right from the 12V transformer. D3 rectifies it. If it's not flowing enough current, you may need to increase C1.

Does the power terminal need to be shorted?
 
Have you already programmed these before or are they bad from new?

Well, sometime after midnight I figured this out.....
Board #1 had a poorly soldered micro USB port
Answered my own question when I specified the PL-2303HX serial chip
Downloaded the Prolific serial driver for this chip and it worked.
I guess all this chinese stuff could have anything installed on the serial so each board should be checked.
 
I've done some more testing on the new DC protection design. It seems to be glitch free down to 2Hz. Protection activates with around 1VDC when an AC signal is present. I think it's ready for real world testing in an amp.

Jeff

Are these the new boards suited for tube amps you mentioned in a PM to me a couple weeks ago?
Any inputs for monitoring a voltage divider on the A0-A5 terminals?
 
Jeff

Are these the new boards suited for tube amps you mentioned in a PM to me a couple weeks ago?
Any inputs for monitoring a voltage divider on the A0-A5 terminals?[/QUOTE


Monitoring high voltage directly with the Arduino likely wouldn't end well. Do you need to measure actual voltage, or just want an alarm at a trip point. An alarm at a trip point would be easy with an optoisolator. If you actually wanted to monitor voltage I would suggest at least using a AD converter over I2C. That way the AD converter would hopefully fry before the Atmega if something went wrong.

The control board has inputs either way.
 
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