Hi Rick,
Well I certainly am not out to get you or whatever, I just wondered thats all🙂
I use 2 x 800vA transformers in my UCD180, I do know just one of these on its own takes the trip out in my fuse box without a softstart.
They are original Holden and Fishers so there quality is decent enough
Well I certainly am not out to get you or whatever, I just wondered thats all🙂
I use 2 x 800vA transformers in my UCD180, I do know just one of these on its own takes the trip out in my fuse box without a softstart.
They are original Holden and Fishers so there quality is decent enough
Rick I'm afraid your logic fails you completely.
You obviously lack understanding, and that's OK if you're here to learn instead of push your product. You're obviously not though. What I find sad is that you pray on the ignorance of others and readily sell them what I'll call poorly if not dangerously built products.
The $ rules you, not quality, you can moan and harp all you like it won't change that. Obviously you will take this personally, but when it comes to attacking, you're no amateur.
I'm not out to get you at all, but I'm happy to put you in your place, for the sake of the "people of the forum".
You haven't sold anyone any 1500VA's yet have you? You really might want to consider a soft start, Rick, and you really should look into why you need it, before you make things worse for yourself. This is basic stuff my friend. Buying good parts is just one step to making an amp, the rest is knowing what do with them.
I'm not at all intimidated by who's name you feel like dropping in the pretense that they'd agree with you. I take humor in the fact that all of a sudden the validity of soft start becomes obvious to you and ooooh... it must degrade the sound therefore I do not include one LOL... my god man, how do you sleep at night?
Please, show me a 1500VA that doesn't trip the breaker without one.
You obviously lack understanding, and that's OK if you're here to learn instead of push your product. You're obviously not though. What I find sad is that you pray on the ignorance of others and readily sell them what I'll call poorly if not dangerously built products.
The $ rules you, not quality, you can moan and harp all you like it won't change that. Obviously you will take this personally, but when it comes to attacking, you're no amateur.
I'm not out to get you at all, but I'm happy to put you in your place, for the sake of the "people of the forum".
You haven't sold anyone any 1500VA's yet have you? You really might want to consider a soft start, Rick, and you really should look into why you need it, before you make things worse for yourself. This is basic stuff my friend. Buying good parts is just one step to making an amp, the rest is knowing what do with them.
I'm not at all intimidated by who's name you feel like dropping in the pretense that they'd agree with you. I take humor in the fact that all of a sudden the validity of soft start becomes obvious to you and ooooh... it must degrade the sound therefore I do not include one LOL... my god man, how do you sleep at night?
Please, show me a 1500VA that doesn't trip the breaker without one.
Re: of course, I knew you would have to chime in with your negativity!
Garbage.
I presume therefore that you also do without mains fuse,switch and socket.
Ric Schultz said:
Garbage.
I presume therefore that you also do without mains fuse,switch and socket.
T.
So, you have no fuse in your amp? I use a 6.3 amp slow blow fuse without problem with one 500 watt toroid. You might want to try a 10 amp slow blow with two 800 watters....maybe even larger....this way you don't have to reset the breaker....Obviously, if the transformer and bank of caps are large enough then some form of soft start may be necessary. Most DIYers are not using a 800 watt tranny on each channel of a 100 watt amp!!!! he he... Another option is to use a 10-15 amp breaker in your amp (or even per channel...I mean, you really want separate power cords anyway)...it becomes the on/off switch and circuit breaker in combo. Some manufactures are doing it because they feel it sounds better than fuses. And, as I mentioned, you can use softstart with a timer that soon after shorts the whole thing with a super large relay (for better sound).
Many possibilities, as usual.
So, you have no fuse in your amp? I use a 6.3 amp slow blow fuse without problem with one 500 watt toroid. You might want to try a 10 amp slow blow with two 800 watters....maybe even larger....this way you don't have to reset the breaker....Obviously, if the transformer and bank of caps are large enough then some form of soft start may be necessary. Most DIYers are not using a 800 watt tranny on each channel of a 100 watt amp!!!! he he... Another option is to use a 10-15 amp breaker in your amp (or even per channel...I mean, you really want separate power cords anyway)...it becomes the on/off switch and circuit breaker in combo. Some manufactures are doing it because they feel it sounds better than fuses. And, as I mentioned, you can use softstart with a timer that soon after shorts the whole thing with a super large relay (for better sound).
Many possibilities, as usual.
Re: of course, I knew you would have to chime in with your negativity!
I feel forced to follow that up:
The difference between DIYers who may opt to not fuse or use certain protections is that it is "their" perogative, and hopefully they do so knowingly. In your case you're selling products which have to be safe.... are you now saying you do not use fuses either?!?
The usefulness of soft start in extending component lifespan is in the long term, something customers generally tend to appreciate.
The robustness of the modules themselves bare no regards to how poorly you seemingly implement them.
Just read your recent bs. Rick, how in the heck is a bigger slow blow fuse in the amp going to stop the breaker from tripping??? Whew!
Do you realize you need a specially rated breaker in order for it act as primary protection, if not, you need to use a fuse along with it?
Do you realize they'll still blow/trip, and the idea of the soft start is to prevent this annoyance from happening? Along with ensuring a very long component lifespan?
Rick, is "super big" and "super large" the technical term? 😀
PS: Where do these dual power cords run to.... the same outlet right? 😕
Ric Schultz said:
I feel forced to follow that up:
The difference between DIYers who may opt to not fuse or use certain protections is that it is "their" perogative, and hopefully they do so knowingly. In your case you're selling products which have to be safe.... are you now saying you do not use fuses either?!?
The usefulness of soft start in extending component lifespan is in the long term, something customers generally tend to appreciate.
The robustness of the modules themselves bare no regards to how poorly you seemingly implement them.
Just read your recent bs. Rick, how in the heck is a bigger slow blow fuse in the amp going to stop the breaker from tripping??? Whew!
Do you realize you need a specially rated breaker in order for it act as primary protection, if not, you need to use a fuse along with it?
Do you realize they'll still blow/trip, and the idea of the soft start is to prevent this annoyance from happening? Along with ensuring a very long component lifespan?
Rick, is "super big" and "super large" the technical term? 😀
PS: Where do these dual power cords run to.... the same outlet right? 😕
Re: Re: of course, I knew you would have to chime in with your negativity!
Rick presumably wires directly into the national grid to avoid all that nasty elcb mains degradation.
classd4sure said:
Rick presumably wires directly into the national grid to avoid all that nasty elcb mains degradation.
Well, you got me on the circuit breaker thang...I have had amps with 700 watt transformers, 200,000uf of caps and have never thown a circuit breaker on turn on (15 amp breakers). Never used a soft start, never blew a component in over 30 years. The amps I sell work fine, the amps I use work fine....that is what matters. Have fun.
Fusing
Hi Rick,
I find fusing anything more than the primary phase from the mains completely superfluous too, not to mention sonically harmful.
That is all that is needed for safety IMHO. By the time a rail fuse blows the components are dead as a dodo and the primary fuse will usually have blown anyway if a fastblow is used.
However there must be an appropriately rated fuse on the primary side to ensure the thing does not catch fire or otherwise become unsafe.
Why go to all the trouble of using fancy caps, good power supply wiring etc and then follow that with a fuse with all the tempco problems (and sonic IME) that entails?
Oh, I can think of one good reason actually... the blown rail fuse helps identify the location of the fault.
Rob.
Hi Rick,
I find fusing anything more than the primary phase from the mains completely superfluous too, not to mention sonically harmful.
That is all that is needed for safety IMHO. By the time a rail fuse blows the components are dead as a dodo and the primary fuse will usually have blown anyway if a fastblow is used.
However there must be an appropriately rated fuse on the primary side to ensure the thing does not catch fire or otherwise become unsafe.
Why go to all the trouble of using fancy caps, good power supply wiring etc and then follow that with a fuse with all the tempco problems (and sonic IME) that entails?
Oh, I can think of one good reason actually... the blown rail fuse helps identify the location of the fault.
Rob.
Ric Schultz said:
Thanks Rick,
I meant the mains consumer unit for our house not the fuses in my amp😀 it uses reset fuses, I already use T8A fuses for each transformer in my amp, sorry for the confusion.
The Reason being I use such high current transformers is because I already had them spare, it seemed a shame to waste them, they are also good quality, totally silent in operation.
The relays in my softstart are 30A🙂 each of my UCDs have its own psu with 2x 6800uf on each +/- rail., I also have fuses after the psu caps.
With the softstart I have no problems so far😉
In my view, if you're going to do something so foolish as to employ loosely dangling live speaker wires out the back of the amp, destined for sale to the general public, you'd do very well to employ every means of protection possible.
Hi Chris,
Could you describe the sonic differences between the cerafines and jensens? I see them on sale and am going to give myself a birthday present.
PS. I have been using dual bridge config with many small FC caps from leftovers.
Regards,
Chuck.
Could you describe the sonic differences between the cerafines and jensens? I see them on sale and am going to give myself a birthday present.
PS. I have been using dual bridge config with many small FC caps from leftovers.
Regards,
Chuck.
But that amp says 'Millenium DAC' on the front. Surely, that has to count for something 😉classd4sure said:
There are no loosely dangling wires on my amps. The litz (coated) wires are covered with cotton, brought through a rubber grommet insulated hole in the chassis, bent towards the binding posts, tinned on the ends and wrapped fully around the binding posts and soldered to itself in a loop. Not any more dangerous than the binding post itself. Chris, always looking for trouble.
If you ever tried the binding post bypass, you would never go back. Much tighter bass, more tunefull bass, more harmonics, much more extended and pure highs, better macro and micro dynamics...but, I guess you are not interested in such things.
If you do it like I describe, it is a no brainer great sounding reliable mod.
If you ever tried the binding post bypass, you would never go back. Much tighter bass, more tunefull bass, more harmonics, much more extended and pure highs, better macro and micro dynamics...but, I guess you are not interested in such things.
If you do it like I describe, it is a no brainer great sounding reliable mod.
Rick,
I'm going to be blunt with you now, because I've grown bored of you, and your antics, ignorance, and lies.
Your first "tweak" was to use.. brass? was it? as a dampener .. so that you dont' hear the sound of your "fingernail over the heatsink through the speakers". I questioned your logic behind that, and you immediatly retorted, trying to play me off as some bad guy while you, our hero the tweaker, the listener, knew so much more than the "engineer".
That's an extremely weak position to take, and a very low tactic, when you did that I lost any respect for you that I may have had.
I pointed out many instances of the lack of reason behind your tweaks, and when your made up physics failed to sway my beliefs, I was a tyrant, for whom the people of the forum needed to rise up against.. lacked peace and love, and you had a personal mailing list of my fans that supported you. These I find all to be very weak tactics.
Just a second ago I was showing a friend your handy work as displayed on your website. We were enjoying a good laugh about your super tweaky binding post connection.
Then came back to this thread and read your most recent response, about how you loop the wire around the post and "solder it to itself"?? (and you really think that's any brighter? wow.)
I'm 100% certain all you did was give it a half twist around the binding post, and after reading your recent BS, I went back to the website to verify that fact, lo and behold, the picture just vanished!! Why is that Rick?
You can play the victim all you like, I'm tired of your whinning, how hard done by you try to come off as, attempting to gain pity for yourself.
I'm going to be so bold now as to say you have no business selling this junk of yours to the unsuspecting public, you're just dangerous, and have no clue what you're doing. You're not here giving sound advice to anyone, you're hear to push your little tweaks, and it's just rediculous.
If you were a DIYer or someone who's trying to learn, or to contribute as a professional with good information, I'd never ever take this tone with you, but I see you as something altogether different, something despicable, you're what I loath in the industry. You're a self promoting commercial vendor, even the very basics are lost on you, and you invent foolishness to make up for your lack of understanding to market your product with voodoo, which won't actually produe a good amp as the basics have gone ignored, since you're ignorant of them.
I don't blame you one bit for removing those pictures. I sure hope you'll rethink you're latest gimmick for the good of your customers, if you in fact have any, and put some sense into your implementation for a change.
So just to be perfectly clear:
"wrapped fully around the binding posts and soldered to itself in a loop. "
Saying that just proves you're a complete liar, especially when you can't remove the picture fast enough. The wires were half wrapped, barely hooked around the binding post, and sure as heck were not soldered into a loop. Were they actually soldered into a loop, well, it's actually no better I'm afraid.
No amount of whinning or preaching is going to convince me this is a smart move, or that the pictures you removed were as you now describe.
Also, since I am looking at your website, I'm further amused to note that not a single amp includes any means of ventilation!! Did you even read the included data sheet with your modules? Along with your "dampening" brass plate with it's worse heat transfer than aluminum, you're truly putting together a winning combination.
Your layouts, made obvious by your backplates, further demonstrates a serious lack of understanding as to the very basics, you need to get yourself a book. Rather putting the modules right next to each other, seperate them as much as possible, with the RCA's (low level, high impedance) .... well... no, just get a book. Looking at your parts list I think I've helped you enough already anyway. Nice plastic plugs you filled those tweaker holes with. Does that option cost more? Or is it your intention that they blow out when the internal pressure builds enough?
You know what else is really funny to me right now Rick? It's that I just noticed I never closed the original window that shows the picture you removed. I'll post it here for good measure. Note carefully how the wire is not at all soldered to itself.
I'll agree with you on this single thing "it is a no brainer ". I guess that's what 30 years of tweaking gets you.
I'm going to be blunt with you now, because I've grown bored of you, and your antics, ignorance, and lies.
Your first "tweak" was to use.. brass? was it? as a dampener .. so that you dont' hear the sound of your "fingernail over the heatsink through the speakers". I questioned your logic behind that, and you immediatly retorted, trying to play me off as some bad guy while you, our hero the tweaker, the listener, knew so much more than the "engineer".
That's an extremely weak position to take, and a very low tactic, when you did that I lost any respect for you that I may have had.
I pointed out many instances of the lack of reason behind your tweaks, and when your made up physics failed to sway my beliefs, I was a tyrant, for whom the people of the forum needed to rise up against.. lacked peace and love, and you had a personal mailing list of my fans that supported you. These I find all to be very weak tactics.
Just a second ago I was showing a friend your handy work as displayed on your website. We were enjoying a good laugh about your super tweaky binding post connection.
Then came back to this thread and read your most recent response, about how you loop the wire around the post and "solder it to itself"?? (and you really think that's any brighter? wow.)
I'm 100% certain all you did was give it a half twist around the binding post, and after reading your recent BS, I went back to the website to verify that fact, lo and behold, the picture just vanished!! Why is that Rick?
You can play the victim all you like, I'm tired of your whinning, how hard done by you try to come off as, attempting to gain pity for yourself.
I'm going to be so bold now as to say you have no business selling this junk of yours to the unsuspecting public, you're just dangerous, and have no clue what you're doing. You're not here giving sound advice to anyone, you're hear to push your little tweaks, and it's just rediculous.
If you were a DIYer or someone who's trying to learn, or to contribute as a professional with good information, I'd never ever take this tone with you, but I see you as something altogether different, something despicable, you're what I loath in the industry. You're a self promoting commercial vendor, even the very basics are lost on you, and you invent foolishness to make up for your lack of understanding to market your product with voodoo, which won't actually produe a good amp as the basics have gone ignored, since you're ignorant of them.
I don't blame you one bit for removing those pictures. I sure hope you'll rethink you're latest gimmick for the good of your customers, if you in fact have any, and put some sense into your implementation for a change.
So just to be perfectly clear:
"wrapped fully around the binding posts and soldered to itself in a loop. "
Saying that just proves you're a complete liar, especially when you can't remove the picture fast enough. The wires were half wrapped, barely hooked around the binding post, and sure as heck were not soldered into a loop. Were they actually soldered into a loop, well, it's actually no better I'm afraid.
No amount of whinning or preaching is going to convince me this is a smart move, or that the pictures you removed were as you now describe.
Also, since I am looking at your website, I'm further amused to note that not a single amp includes any means of ventilation!! Did you even read the included data sheet with your modules? Along with your "dampening" brass plate with it's worse heat transfer than aluminum, you're truly putting together a winning combination.
Your layouts, made obvious by your backplates, further demonstrates a serious lack of understanding as to the very basics, you need to get yourself a book. Rather putting the modules right next to each other, seperate them as much as possible, with the RCA's (low level, high impedance) .... well... no, just get a book. Looking at your parts list I think I've helped you enough already anyway. Nice plastic plugs you filled those tweaker holes with. Does that option cost more? Or is it your intention that they blow out when the internal pressure builds enough?
You know what else is really funny to me right now Rick? It's that I just noticed I never closed the original window that shows the picture you removed. I'll post it here for good measure. Note carefully how the wire is not at all soldered to itself.
I'll agree with you on this single thing "it is a no brainer ". I guess that's what 30 years of tweaking gets you.
Attachments
Soft Start Modules
Hi All,
Well, for starters, the use of a softstart module will let your components last a little longer. To use this analogy, and no, not picking on smokers, but stats will show that if you don't smoke you will add at least 5 yerars to your life. Now, if you smoke, you won't see the affects for awhile. Just like the softstart, the advantage is you then can use lower fuse values. Your switches will not have pits and you might not have to replace them as offten. If you are using a 500VA and above, you definitely need a softstart module. So I am told by someone who would know. Hey JoshK, buy a softstart from Kevin for $35. It's to bad that Toroids have the inrush problem where a softstart in some cases is required.
Ray
Hi All,
Well, for starters, the use of a softstart module will let your components last a little longer. To use this analogy, and no, not picking on smokers, but stats will show that if you don't smoke you will add at least 5 yerars to your life. Now, if you smoke, you won't see the affects for awhile. Just like the softstart, the advantage is you then can use lower fuse values. Your switches will not have pits and you might not have to replace them as offten. If you are using a 500VA and above, you definitely need a softstart module. So I am told by someone who would know. Hey JoshK, buy a softstart from Kevin for $35. It's to bad that Toroids have the inrush problem where a softstart in some cases is required.
Ray
Chris vs Ric
Chris,
I am no apologist for Ric, I don't know him. However your constant hounding of him and your sanctimonious tone is intolerable. I also smelll the unmistakeable pong of hypocracy.
If Ric has lied then so have you. A few posts ago you accuse him of having live wires "loosely dangling" when the picture in your latest post shows nothing of the sort. The wires are have no reduntant length and arelooped sufficiently around the posts to prevent them dangling at all. The trouble with telling lies is you have to remember them...
Oh, a further point the UCD's are short circuit protected, so what is going to come to grief if the wires short?
You also lay into Ric at every opportunity regarding his alleged lack of knowledge or expertise, when his explanations for his tweaks are all that is needed, ie it sounds better. He does not claim to know why. Not too much from Ric I can recall smacks of voodoo. There are plausible theories for things such as the absense of ferric bolts holding the power transformers, and surely we need no explanation as to why bypassing the sbinding posts might be better? There have been errors by Ric over the fuse issue, but I suspect that these may have been hasty responses provoked by pressure from you. He had the good grace to concede the mistake as I recall.
Please end this vendetta now. I for one would sooner learn something.
Rob
Chris,
I am no apologist for Ric, I don't know him. However your constant hounding of him and your sanctimonious tone is intolerable. I also smelll the unmistakeable pong of hypocracy.
If Ric has lied then so have you. A few posts ago you accuse him of having live wires "loosely dangling" when the picture in your latest post shows nothing of the sort. The wires are have no reduntant length and arelooped sufficiently around the posts to prevent them dangling at all. The trouble with telling lies is you have to remember them...
Oh, a further point the UCD's are short circuit protected, so what is going to come to grief if the wires short?
You also lay into Ric at every opportunity regarding his alleged lack of knowledge or expertise, when his explanations for his tweaks are all that is needed, ie it sounds better. He does not claim to know why. Not too much from Ric I can recall smacks of voodoo. There are plausible theories for things such as the absense of ferric bolts holding the power transformers, and surely we need no explanation as to why bypassing the sbinding posts might be better? There have been errors by Ric over the fuse issue, but I suspect that these may have been hasty responses provoked by pressure from you. He had the good grace to concede the mistake as I recall.
Please end this vendetta now. I for one would sooner learn something.
Rob
Rob,
Being an apologist for rick is exactly what you're doing, or trying to. If you find my posts intolerable by all means, do not read them.
"If Ric has lied then so have you"
I'm trying to see the logic behind that, I can't. Have I lied? I'd say merely exagerated, ever so slightly to help get my point across.
Can that not be true independantly of rick's actions, or is this some quantum truth theory you're working with?
By every definition those wires are live and are loosely dangling, outside of the case. I do not think such a "connection" (for which I use the term... loosely) would pass any level of standard certification (or degree of common sense). The redundant length is where they pass through the case... the loose part is where they have no physical, mechanical connection, and a half of a loop bent around a binding post doesn't exactly qualify as such.
Please, do excuse the freedom which I took with this 🙂 ... he did remove the picture, which I posted to clearly show wasn't as he described, there's no "if rick lied" that applies, and I've no sympathy for him at all.
"and arelooped sufficiently"
... I'm just glad I didn't get the chance to make my coffee yet.. because I would have spit it out right there.. "sufficiently" lol. May I have the name of the standards comittee that would classify that as sufficient?
I find myself unwilling to go into detail as to why this is such a foolish idea, aside from the most obvious reasons. I leave it to you both to do your research. I find this a matter of common sense.
"Oh, a further point the UCD's are short circuit protected, so what is going to come to grief if the wires short?"
There's a good argument. 🙄
This is also a matter of common sense. I think you mean to say _WHEN_ the wires short. Such a "connection" invites problems, it's simply a matter of time. "If something can go wrong, it will".
Who in their right mind.. (there's the key word) would want to market something that's destined to fail? He's got future lawsuits to be concerned with... you know his junk isn't certified, therefore he ought to take every precaution that it is bullet proof, the judge isn't going to care much how he thought it sounded, or what he thought was overkill.
We have ignored cooling, ignored layout, ignored safety, and common sense... he's not a DIYer Robert, he's selling this crap and trying to market it here. He acts like knows when he obviously doesn't, he's bragged about his sales and how he makes his living off it... you just go have your sympathy for him.
The modules do have overcurrent protection, but is that a feature meant to be relied on? Doubt it! When you find out, let us know. I'd rather avoid that whole situation entirely. Just because it's there as a precautionary measure does not mean you should invite its use, much less rely on it to make up for your failings.
"You also lay into Ric at every opportunity regarding his alleged lack of knowledge or expertise"
Not every opportunity, not by far. I actually pass up quite a few, grudgingly enough. Last night was exceptional though, normally I restrict myself to questioning his lack of reason, and his willingness to overlook the very basics in liew of his voodoo. It only became clear to me last night he wasn't overlooking it at all.
Rick's repeated mistake is to follow up my replies with his idiocy, which invites his expertise, logic and reason (or lack thereof) into question. Most recent example being what brought all this on:
"my production amps don't use soft start, me use big diode, what else worries you". His production amps were not the topic of concern until he willingly made it so. What a circus that turned out to be.
..."when his explanations for his tweaks are all that is needed, ie it sounds better. He does not claim to know why."
Nonsense, he claims to know why, it's the invented cure for his invented problem, pay attention.
Typically your posts tend to depict someone who appreciates a solide understanding of things..along with the benefits that can bring. The how's and the why's. All of a sudden this is of no use to you? All of a sudden the gospel of a voodoo marketeer is good enough, and just because he said so? Do you also truly feel that this is the appropriate venue for that garbage??
I always regarded this as a true sanctuary from such drivel, the one and only haven, so excuse me, I'll make no apologies for being sanctimonious about it to help keep it that way, and the quality of available information high. One second you're all for what works and the next voodoo is OK, that to me is hypocracy, Sir.
"Not too much from Ric I can recall smacks of voodoo. There are plausible theories for things such as the absense of ferric bolts holding the power transformers, and surely we need no explanation as to why bypassing the sbinding posts might be better?"
Oooooh boy. I can take a day to play with that.. but I'm going to go on the premise that it's obvious enough to already be hilarious to everyone.
If you really believe that, let us know how it goes when you try going for the "no IEC sound", after all, there's a fuse or a breaker somewhere down the line, right?
🙄 
"There have been errors by Ric over the fuse issue, but I suspect that these may have been hasty responses provoked by pressure from you. He had the good grace to concede the mistake as I recall. "
Yeah, he was finally provoked into attempting to use facts instead of "hippy love" to prove his worth, and failed miserably.
As someone with "production amps" don't you think he ought to know something about fusing and be able to correctly write a hasty reply on it that isn't entirely absurd?? It's pretty basic after all.
No one was even asking him about fusing, they were trying to hint he ought to reconsider his position, and he failed to see it. Instead he took it as an opportunity to display his ignorance, and that's what happened.
I don't think it's unreasonable to hold him to higher expectations, as the manufacturer he claims to be, along with the caliber of advice which he gives. Mind you, I haven't seen any real advice from him yet, just little hints as to what people stand to gain should they go with his production amps, because he knows secrets.
He also did not concede anything, he pulled his usual pity routine to gain your sympathy, which I see worked, and dismissed the importance of it entirely.
If the fuse thing is the only area you can think of to perhaps fault him on, clearly you've not been paying attention.
"Plausible theories" or invented problems, you decide. You ought to research this ferrous mounting bolt issue, you'll get a good laugh, I assure you. (hint... we aren't operating in the Gigahertz Megawatt range).. Let's remove the aluminum mounting plate.... and tie wrap it to an aluminum chassis, even though tie wraps become dry and brittle, especially with repeated heating/cooling cycles like it will see around a transformer in a power amp..... LOL... wheeeewww.
I question your definition of "plausible theory"... for now I'll stick with the term voodoo.
Let Rick defend himself if he can, I'll do the same. Don't fall for his pity routine. This isn't a vendetta issue at all, it's matter Vs anti-matter.
" I for one would sooner learn something."
You just did.
Best Regards,
Chris
Being an apologist for rick is exactly what you're doing, or trying to. If you find my posts intolerable by all means, do not read them.
"If Ric has lied then so have you"
I'm trying to see the logic behind that, I can't. Have I lied? I'd say merely exagerated, ever so slightly to help get my point across.
Can that not be true independantly of rick's actions, or is this some quantum truth theory you're working with?
By every definition those wires are live and are loosely dangling, outside of the case. I do not think such a "connection" (for which I use the term... loosely) would pass any level of standard certification (or degree of common sense). The redundant length is where they pass through the case... the loose part is where they have no physical, mechanical connection, and a half of a loop bent around a binding post doesn't exactly qualify as such.
Please, do excuse the freedom which I took with this 🙂 ... he did remove the picture, which I posted to clearly show wasn't as he described, there's no "if rick lied" that applies, and I've no sympathy for him at all.
"and arelooped sufficiently"
... I'm just glad I didn't get the chance to make my coffee yet.. because I would have spit it out right there.. "sufficiently" lol. May I have the name of the standards comittee that would classify that as sufficient?
I find myself unwilling to go into detail as to why this is such a foolish idea, aside from the most obvious reasons. I leave it to you both to do your research. I find this a matter of common sense.
"Oh, a further point the UCD's are short circuit protected, so what is going to come to grief if the wires short?"
There's a good argument. 🙄
This is also a matter of common sense. I think you mean to say _WHEN_ the wires short. Such a "connection" invites problems, it's simply a matter of time. "If something can go wrong, it will".
Who in their right mind.. (there's the key word) would want to market something that's destined to fail? He's got future lawsuits to be concerned with... you know his junk isn't certified, therefore he ought to take every precaution that it is bullet proof, the judge isn't going to care much how he thought it sounded, or what he thought was overkill.
We have ignored cooling, ignored layout, ignored safety, and common sense... he's not a DIYer Robert, he's selling this crap and trying to market it here. He acts like knows when he obviously doesn't, he's bragged about his sales and how he makes his living off it... you just go have your sympathy for him.
The modules do have overcurrent protection, but is that a feature meant to be relied on? Doubt it! When you find out, let us know. I'd rather avoid that whole situation entirely. Just because it's there as a precautionary measure does not mean you should invite its use, much less rely on it to make up for your failings.
"You also lay into Ric at every opportunity regarding his alleged lack of knowledge or expertise"
Not every opportunity, not by far. I actually pass up quite a few, grudgingly enough. Last night was exceptional though, normally I restrict myself to questioning his lack of reason, and his willingness to overlook the very basics in liew of his voodoo. It only became clear to me last night he wasn't overlooking it at all.
Rick's repeated mistake is to follow up my replies with his idiocy, which invites his expertise, logic and reason (or lack thereof) into question. Most recent example being what brought all this on:
"my production amps don't use soft start, me use big diode, what else worries you". His production amps were not the topic of concern until he willingly made it so. What a circus that turned out to be.
..."when his explanations for his tweaks are all that is needed, ie it sounds better. He does not claim to know why."
Nonsense, he claims to know why, it's the invented cure for his invented problem, pay attention.
Typically your posts tend to depict someone who appreciates a solide understanding of things..along with the benefits that can bring. The how's and the why's. All of a sudden this is of no use to you? All of a sudden the gospel of a voodoo marketeer is good enough, and just because he said so? Do you also truly feel that this is the appropriate venue for that garbage??
I always regarded this as a true sanctuary from such drivel, the one and only haven, so excuse me, I'll make no apologies for being sanctimonious about it to help keep it that way, and the quality of available information high. One second you're all for what works and the next voodoo is OK, that to me is hypocracy, Sir.
"Not too much from Ric I can recall smacks of voodoo. There are plausible theories for things such as the absense of ferric bolts holding the power transformers, and surely we need no explanation as to why bypassing the sbinding posts might be better?"
Oooooh boy. I can take a day to play with that.. but I'm going to go on the premise that it's obvious enough to already be hilarious to everyone.
If you really believe that, let us know how it goes when you try going for the "no IEC sound", after all, there's a fuse or a breaker somewhere down the line, right?
🙄 "There have been errors by Ric over the fuse issue, but I suspect that these may have been hasty responses provoked by pressure from you. He had the good grace to concede the mistake as I recall. "
Yeah, he was finally provoked into attempting to use facts instead of "hippy love" to prove his worth, and failed miserably.
As someone with "production amps" don't you think he ought to know something about fusing and be able to correctly write a hasty reply on it that isn't entirely absurd?? It's pretty basic after all.
No one was even asking him about fusing, they were trying to hint he ought to reconsider his position, and he failed to see it. Instead he took it as an opportunity to display his ignorance, and that's what happened.
I don't think it's unreasonable to hold him to higher expectations, as the manufacturer he claims to be, along with the caliber of advice which he gives. Mind you, I haven't seen any real advice from him yet, just little hints as to what people stand to gain should they go with his production amps, because he knows secrets.
He also did not concede anything, he pulled his usual pity routine to gain your sympathy, which I see worked, and dismissed the importance of it entirely.
If the fuse thing is the only area you can think of to perhaps fault him on, clearly you've not been paying attention.
"Plausible theories" or invented problems, you decide. You ought to research this ferrous mounting bolt issue, you'll get a good laugh, I assure you. (hint... we aren't operating in the Gigahertz Megawatt range).. Let's remove the aluminum mounting plate.... and tie wrap it to an aluminum chassis, even though tie wraps become dry and brittle, especially with repeated heating/cooling cycles like it will see around a transformer in a power amp..... LOL... wheeeewww.
I question your definition of "plausible theory"... for now I'll stick with the term voodoo.
Let Rick defend himself if he can, I'll do the same. Don't fall for his pity routine. This isn't a vendetta issue at all, it's matter Vs anti-matter.
" I for one would sooner learn something."
You just did.
Best Regards,
Chris
It is simple. This is a forum about technology, so let us talk about technology not about people, and be civil and respectful.
If we can avoid using words such as "you", "he", "his" and so on, and instead use constructs such as "my view is" we would keep the level of the discussion readable and tolerable for all.
I agree with Rob that reading personal attack posts on a technical forum is intolerable.
Guy
If we can avoid using words such as "you", "he", "his" and so on, and instead use constructs such as "my view is" we would keep the level of the discussion readable and tolerable for all.
I agree with Rob that reading personal attack posts on a technical forum is intolerable.
Guy
No mudslinging - by order.
Gentlemen, I have neither the time nor inclination to wade through pages of alleged mudslinging. If you wish to argue your points of view, then please do so - that is what the forum is for. Dispute politely and either back up your assertions with solid facts, or present your arguments as a personal opinion and allow that others may not share that opinion. Assertions not clearly presented as opinion, yet not backed up by solid facts, are legitimate targets for criticism. However, all members have a right to expect that criticism to be polite and as far as possible, impersonal.
I now have my eye on this thread...
Gentlemen, I have neither the time nor inclination to wade through pages of alleged mudslinging. If you wish to argue your points of view, then please do so - that is what the forum is for. Dispute politely and either back up your assertions with solid facts, or present your arguments as a personal opinion and allow that others may not share that opinion. Assertions not clearly presented as opinion, yet not backed up by solid facts, are legitimate targets for criticism. However, all members have a right to expect that criticism to be polite and as far as possible, impersonal.
I now have my eye on this thread...
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