courage said:
Have you heard the UcDs? If you find something better, let us know. For me they work great. Most people here have tweaked them, so may sound different than the ones coming directly from Hypex.
Gertjan
courage said:
No, that would be nuforce that sold based on hype alone, there's a very distinct difference. With UCD you'll get what's promised, no hype involved. Maybe your parents can help you with the plugs??
Hi All,
Well, then I will ask this, will probably if all goes ok, will be getting my stuff to build one of these amps real soon.
Now, does anyone have what they would consider the best layout scheme? What wiring did you use etc. What size case did you use? If possible use inches.Any little tips and tricks for placement of parts and why and how etc. It's not that I don't want to experiment, rather it is I want to live through it. lol. no shocking experiences. How did you come to where it was as far as layout? So that is it.
Regards to all,
Ray
Well, then I will ask this, will probably if all goes ok, will be getting my stuff to build one of these amps real soon.
Now, does anyone have what they would consider the best layout scheme? What wiring did you use etc. What size case did you use? If possible use inches.Any little tips and tricks for placement of parts and why and how etc. It's not that I don't want to experiment, rather it is I want to live through it. lol. no shocking experiences. How did you come to where it was as far as layout? So that is it.
Regards to all,
Ray
just got my ucd400s. On these latest modules where are the input coupling caps? Mine do not look like the pics that have been posted. I have 4 small caps in the location where previous pics have shown only the two input caps. C23 and C24 I believe.
Thanks - Dave
Thanks - Dave
So I jumper out all four of them? I think they were C6, C7, C23, C24. I thought there were only 2 input coupling caps.
Dave
Dave
Nooo no no.. sorry, confused myself with the wording of your question.
C23 and C24 are still the coupling caps to be removed, the other two stay~!
C23 and C24 are still the coupling caps to be removed, the other two stay~!
Do you guys use softstarts or themistors, or other in rush limiting devices with your UcDs?
I don't with my current setup, but I am rebuilding them into monoblocks with more capacitance, larger toroid and wondered if I need to use a softstart. Thoughts?
I don't with my current setup, but I am rebuilding them into monoblocks with more capacitance, larger toroid and wondered if I need to use a softstart. Thoughts?
I'll be working on a softstart soon. Sadly due to the high efficiency /low supply demands of class d thermistors aren't a good solution at all.
Thanks, I hadn't thought of that, but it completely makes sense.
UcD's solution is an expensive one, but other implementations aren't so inexpensive either, especially when I was considering using the Bulgin lighted vandal resistant switches. Plus I am triamping with monoblocks, so individually powering on 6 monos sounds like a drag. I'll probably just leave them on all the time.
UcD's solution is an expensive one, but other implementations aren't so inexpensive either, especially when I was considering using the Bulgin lighted vandal resistant switches. Plus I am triamping with monoblocks, so individually powering on 6 monos sounds like a drag. I'll probably just leave them on all the time.
I don't use any kind of soft start in my production UCD amps. If you use diodes that can handle at least 150 amps of surge current then they won't blow. The diodes I use have a 300 amp surge rating. What else are you worried about?
Well I am actively amping, I am pretty much just concerned that I don't damage the amp module or the drivers and that I get long life out of my caps (Jensen 4poles).
Ric Schultz said:
Rick, that's really one secret you ought to have kept.
The first reason for a soft start circuit is so you don't scare your customers by having the lights dim each time they turn it on, or annoy them by repeatedly blowing the fuses, or tripping the breaker. I strongly doubt you're using the version of Plitron transformer which does not require a soft start. It's a little insane to be selling them a 1500VA toroidal transformer with no soft start... or have you actually tried that yet?
The other reason is to ensure a long life of the very expensive components you are selling to your customers, for which you'd really have to look a little beyond your meager 30 day money back guarantee.
BTW, love that super tweaky external binding post connection, scary as hell. You should forget the voodoo for awhile and look up some basics.
Cheers,
Chris
I'd have thought not using a softstart would not be very healthy (in the long run) for the psu caps
Does the inrush current shorten their life?
I do know I would have to keep resetting the trip in my fuse box😱
Does the inrush current shorten their life?
I do know I would have to keep resetting the trip in my fuse box😱
of course, I knew you would have to chime in with your negativity!
Chris,
No one is blowing fuses, or having circuit breakers go out, and the lights barely dim...no one but you cares....and you care because you are constantly out to "get" me. You are so predictable. so sad really.
By the way, I give 3 years parts and labor gaurantee, transferable.
Josh,
I use Jensen 4 poles also.
Many of the DIYers that have put together the amps are using no soft start, and no fuses on the rails....do you read on this forum or anywhere about failed diodes, modules, caps, drivers, or whatever?...no, you don't.
I understand some people are very conservative and are always thinking of every possible senario for failure and do everything imaginable to attain perfect reliablity...to each his own be given.
A soft start will no doubt effect the sound in a negative way unless you can bypass the softstart parts with a super big relay. Even the not very tweaky John Ulrich is doing this in his 500 watt a channel Class D Spectron III after realizing the sonic degradation of the softstart parts. Believe it, or not.
Chris,
No one is blowing fuses, or having circuit breakers go out, and the lights barely dim...no one but you cares....and you care because you are constantly out to "get" me. You are so predictable. so sad really.
By the way, I give 3 years parts and labor gaurantee, transferable.
Josh,
I use Jensen 4 poles also.
Many of the DIYers that have put together the amps are using no soft start, and no fuses on the rails....do you read on this forum or anywhere about failed diodes, modules, caps, drivers, or whatever?...no, you don't.
I understand some people are very conservative and are always thinking of every possible senario for failure and do everything imaginable to attain perfect reliablity...to each his own be given.
A soft start will no doubt effect the sound in a negative way unless you can bypass the softstart parts with a super big relay. Even the not very tweaky John Ulrich is doing this in his 500 watt a channel Class D Spectron III after realizing the sonic degradation of the softstart parts. Believe it, or not.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.