Hi Neazoi,
I used 1% metal film resistors. and 5W wirewound for the 1 Ohms.
next one i build will be tantalums and probably the 1 Ohms will be metal oxide or better - non inductive low noise.
-Dan
I used 1% metal film resistors. and 5W wirewound for the 1 Ohms.
next one i build will be tantalums and probably the 1 Ohms will be metal oxide or better - non inductive low noise.
-Dan
Le Monstre parts "Group Buy"
Hello all,
I am not sure if this is the right place to ask,
But i have some parts for "Le Monstre" from my last build and i am going to organise some more parts for my next build,
if anyone is interested in a "group buy" to to save on freight costs let me know.
-Dan
Hello all,
I am not sure if this is the right place to ask,
But i have some parts for "Le Monstre" from my last build and i am going to organise some more parts for my next build,
if anyone is interested in a "group buy" to to save on freight costs let me know.
-Dan
I am interested about the input fets for both channels, if you can match them. I have them already but they are not matched.
I also can provide anyone with the metal oxide power resistors. In a few days I will have 100 of these. So I think I could pretty mach them.
I also can provide anyone with the metal oxide power resistors. In a few days I will have 100 of these. So I think I could pretty mach them.
if there is enough interest:
2SK170 (originals)
2SC1775 (originals)
2SA872 (originals)
2SB716 (originals)
2SD756 (originals)
2SC2837 (better than orginals)*
2SA1186 (better than orginals)*
Thanks to Lumba for suggesting these.
I can match them all.
Dan
2SK170 (originals)
2SC1775 (originals)
2SA872 (originals)
2SB716 (originals)
2SD756 (originals)
2SC2837 (better than orginals)*
2SA1186 (better than orginals)*
Thanks to Lumba for suggesting these.
I can match them all.
Dan
daniel,
In order not to disturb people here, please go to www.neazoi.com where I have my email in the first paragraph and send me an email. I am interested in all the matched transistors (except the power ones)
In order not to disturb people here, please go to www.neazoi.com where I have my email in the first paragraph and send me an email. I am interested in all the matched transistors (except the power ones)
If I want to insert a current meter to continuously monitor the current in each channel, do I need to insert just one on the +V or do I need two of them at +V and -V ?
Yes I know, but I would like to have a amper-meters on the PSU to continuously monitoring the current as I am going to operate the amplifier from batteries only.
In this case do I need two amper meters in each channel +/-V or just one at the +V ?
In this case do I need two amper meters in each channel +/-V or just one at the +V ?
Hello Neazoi,
You will need two ammeters to measure the current in each rail.
Just a suggestion, you could monitor the voltage of the battery under load on each rail as this will be a better indicator of the battery charge.
Hope this helps / makes sense
do you have some pics / specs of he batteries you chose, i am thinking about getting some soon.
-Dan
You will need two ammeters to measure the current in each rail.
Just a suggestion, you could monitor the voltage of the battery under load on each rail as this will be a better indicator of the battery charge.
Hope this helps / makes sense
do you have some pics / specs of he batteries you chose, i am thinking about getting some soon.
-Dan
I had thought so, here is the complete pattery psu schematic.
The batteries I purchased was these: http://eshops.gr/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=201
and the datasheet https://www.eshops.gr/battery-batteries/EFFEKTA_BTL_batteries.pdf
And the charger like this: http://eshops.gr/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=11496
But mine is 24V to charge the batteries in series as shown on schematic
Apologise about the Greek sites.
Btw, today I got my precious metal oxides so I will be able to match them dan.
The batteries I purchased was these: http://eshops.gr/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=201
and the datasheet https://www.eshops.gr/battery-batteries/EFFEKTA_BTL_batteries.pdf
And the charger like this: http://eshops.gr/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=11496
But mine is 24V to charge the batteries in series as shown on schematic
Apologise about the Greek sites.
Btw, today I got my precious metal oxides so I will be able to match them dan.
Attachments
I hope you place these meters only temporarely for testing?
Else DON'T DON'T DON'T do that..
Keep your powerlines as short and solid as possible.
An Amp-meter is a realy inferior piece of wire..
That's my opinion...
Kees
Else DON'T DON'T DON'T do that..
Keep your powerlines as short and solid as possible.
An Amp-meter is a realy inferior piece of wire..
That's my opinion...
Kees
I was wondering so..
There is no point to take care of so many little things like "resistor sound" and not to take care of the inductance of these meters..
maybe, after the tuning process, I will leave only the voltmeter with a switch in series with it, to test the voltage of the batteries during playing at several time intervals, and not permanent to the circuit..
That sounds like a better (and a cheaper) idea I think.
There is no point to take care of so many little things like "resistor sound" and not to take care of the inductance of these meters..
maybe, after the tuning process, I will leave only the voltmeter with a switch in series with it, to test the voltage of the batteries during playing at several time intervals, and not permanent to the circuit..
That sounds like a better (and a cheaper) idea I think.
JohanH said:
Does the voltmeter presents as resistance in parallel with the resistor or also as inductor in parallel with the resistor?
Assuming a digital voltmeter; a resistance (check specs of voltmeter: should be well over 100k or better)