The_gnu thanks for the compliment mate...
The hydor pump makes next to no sound at all, you have to put your ear right next to it to hear any sound at all
The hydor pump makes next to no sound at all, you have to put your ear right next to it to hear any sound at all
Aussie Aussie Aussie!!!!
HB,
Mate that is looking like a top project. I got onto Trev and I will put in an order for some optics and follow in your footsteps.
Sorry to hear about your accident - I ride myself (but only a crappy Virago 250!!).
So are you going to water cool it?
Anyway, keep it going - its awesome.
G
HB,
Mate that is looking like a top project. I got onto Trev and I will put in an order for some optics and follow in your footsteps.
Sorry to hear about your accident - I ride myself (but only a crappy Virago 250!!).
So are you going to water cool it?
Anyway, keep it going - its awesome.
G
Oi Oi Oi
Thanks Goemon...
Yeah bikes are wonderful things aint they...started riding them when i was 3 years old, would get back on one tomorrow if i was able too...ah well.
Funny you should ask if im watercooling it, was discussing this with Trev actually, i had planned on watercooling two panes of glass and place it before the lcd...I have an old aquariius watercooling kit i picked up years ago (bad buy i give you the tip) Next to useless for watercooling a computer but the little 80mm radiator would work a treat to cool the glass. I haven't given up on this idea by any means and it will be seen on this forum down the track im sure but not on this particular projector..
Gald to hear you got onto Trev mate...could well be the best move you make for your projector forsure ;-) Start with quality and you got a good chance of things turning out right in the end 🙂
Thanks again for the nice comments Goemon hope all falls into place for your projector too buddy look forward to seeing your progress when you get started.
Thanks Goemon...
Yeah bikes are wonderful things aint they...started riding them when i was 3 years old, would get back on one tomorrow if i was able too...ah well.
Funny you should ask if im watercooling it, was discussing this with Trev actually, i had planned on watercooling two panes of glass and place it before the lcd...I have an old aquariius watercooling kit i picked up years ago (bad buy i give you the tip) Next to useless for watercooling a computer but the little 80mm radiator would work a treat to cool the glass. I haven't given up on this idea by any means and it will be seen on this forum down the track im sure but not on this particular projector..
Gald to hear you got onto Trev mate...could well be the best move you make for your projector forsure ;-) Start with quality and you got a good chance of things turning out right in the end 🙂
Thanks again for the nice comments Goemon hope all falls into place for your projector too buddy look forward to seeing your progress when you get started.
Water IR filter
Water makes a fantastic IR filter. It hardly absorbs any visible light, if you look at the absorbtion spectrum. If you put 2 cm in a glass baking dish, then put that between a hot lamp and your hand, you can barely feel any heat at all.
I have been thinking about using a DIY elliptical reflector just to fit a cold mirror into my 15" projector, but that seems like a lot more work than building a 3-4 cm thick water filter. (The only cold mirrors I have found that are big enough for a 15" light path are hundreds of dollars.) The nice thing about building a water filter, is that I can make it any size I need to fit in the light path.
Have you thought about the non-glass parts? I have considered aluminum channel extrusion or steel. Aluminum is lighter and easier to buy in a useful shape, but I would have to get somebody else to weld it. I would have to fabricate a steel frame completely, but at least I could weld it myself. Or another option would be starting with an aluminum die-cast box, then cutting big holes in the top and bottom for the glass. Any other ideas?
Water makes a fantastic IR filter. It hardly absorbs any visible light, if you look at the absorbtion spectrum. If you put 2 cm in a glass baking dish, then put that between a hot lamp and your hand, you can barely feel any heat at all.
I have been thinking about using a DIY elliptical reflector just to fit a cold mirror into my 15" projector, but that seems like a lot more work than building a 3-4 cm thick water filter. (The only cold mirrors I have found that are big enough for a 15" light path are hundreds of dollars.) The nice thing about building a water filter, is that I can make it any size I need to fit in the light path.
Have you thought about the non-glass parts? I have considered aluminum channel extrusion or steel. Aluminum is lighter and easier to buy in a useful shape, but I would have to get somebody else to weld it. I would have to fabricate a steel frame completely, but at least I could weld it myself. Or another option would be starting with an aluminum die-cast box, then cutting big holes in the top and bottom for the glass. Any other ideas?
Guy...I will be getting 2 glass panes cut to size 166mm x 106mm (size of lilliput lcd frame.) I will purchase 10mm aluminium channel from my hardware and and construct a frame to house these to glass panes in (will seal them to the frame with silicone) of course the channel will have to be cut to size as to not block the light from hitting the lcd, in this frame i will add 2 hose barbs for the inlet and outlet , connect them to the radiator and small pump i have with the old aquariius watercooling kit, wire it up and bobs your uncle so to speak...simple and total cost under 20 bucks for the glass and ali 🙂 I would have incorporated it into this projector but it was an after thought and i didnt quite have the room to squeeze the radiator in now...
You could also take a trip to your local Aquarium supplier and im sure they would knock one up for you on the cheap
Hope this gives you some ideas anyways mate 🙂
You could also take a trip to your local Aquarium supplier and im sure they would knock one up for you on the cheap
Hope this gives you some ideas anyways mate 🙂
SAFTEY WARNING!!!! Meat pies and sauce do mix 
, however electricity and water do not, guys please becareful water cooling anything that has electricity around it. It can be potentionally lethal!! Trev
Thats the hard way of doing it mate😀 , ill show you the easy and cheap way
, you will see lol.Trev🙂
Safety suggestion
Trev is absolutely right! I suggest that anybody using water cooling should not even turn on the power ONCE for a single trial run or test, without including a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) in the main power circuit. This device may be called something else in your country. Whatever it is called, you MUST get one. It looks a lot like a normal power outlet, but it also has two small buttons between the two grounded outlets. When you push in the one marked "RESET", the outlets will be powered. As soon as the device detects an unequal amount of current in the supply and return lines, the RESET button will pop out and the power is disconnected. (The other button generates a small imbalance so you can test it.) Connect the GFI to a normal grounded outlet (that has a REAL ground connection). Then plug EVERYTHING in your projector (light, fans, LCD, etc.) into the GFI. This will save your life if there is a water leak, or even if you screwed up the wiring and made a hot chassis.
I was thinking that I might be able to use the thermo-siphon effect to circulate the water to a radiator above the projector. This might work because hot water near the glass will be lower density than the colder water up in the radiator. On the other hand, a radiator may not even be needed: The water absorbs a lot of short-wave IR from the light path and re-emits it as much longer radiation in all directions. Maybe the fan airflow will be enough to keep it cool. Or a piece of low-E glass could be used to keep that longer IR away from the LCD. The point is that it will work by absorbing short-wave IR from the light. So I think it will work better if it is NOT in contact with the LCD. I was also thinking of putting it before my UV filter so the UV radiation will keep the water sterile.
I called a glass shop today to ask about 1/4" plate glass and tempered glass. Tempered is almost twice the price and has to be ordered. (They cut it and polish the edges, and then they temper it.) I tried 2 cm of water in a pyrex dish 1 cm from a 50 Watt halogen, and I could barely feel the glass right in front of the bulb getting warm. So I think I will try the normal 1/4" plate.
One more absolutely essential fact: Water expands about 1.5% as it goes from 60 F to 140 F (factoid from a water heater website). It is not at all compressable. So any such water system has to have a reservoir at the top that contains some airspace or is open to the atmosphere. A sealed system will either leak or explode when heated. If you use a clear tube to connect the system to the overflow reservoir, it could serve as a thermometer!
Trev is absolutely right! I suggest that anybody using water cooling should not even turn on the power ONCE for a single trial run or test, without including a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) in the main power circuit. This device may be called something else in your country. Whatever it is called, you MUST get one. It looks a lot like a normal power outlet, but it also has two small buttons between the two grounded outlets. When you push in the one marked "RESET", the outlets will be powered. As soon as the device detects an unequal amount of current in the supply and return lines, the RESET button will pop out and the power is disconnected. (The other button generates a small imbalance so you can test it.) Connect the GFI to a normal grounded outlet (that has a REAL ground connection). Then plug EVERYTHING in your projector (light, fans, LCD, etc.) into the GFI. This will save your life if there is a water leak, or even if you screwed up the wiring and made a hot chassis.
I was thinking that I might be able to use the thermo-siphon effect to circulate the water to a radiator above the projector. This might work because hot water near the glass will be lower density than the colder water up in the radiator. On the other hand, a radiator may not even be needed: The water absorbs a lot of short-wave IR from the light path and re-emits it as much longer radiation in all directions. Maybe the fan airflow will be enough to keep it cool. Or a piece of low-E glass could be used to keep that longer IR away from the LCD. The point is that it will work by absorbing short-wave IR from the light. So I think it will work better if it is NOT in contact with the LCD. I was also thinking of putting it before my UV filter so the UV radiation will keep the water sterile.
I called a glass shop today to ask about 1/4" plate glass and tempered glass. Tempered is almost twice the price and has to be ordered. (They cut it and polish the edges, and then they temper it.) I tried 2 cm of water in a pyrex dish 1 cm from a 50 Watt halogen, and I could barely feel the glass right in front of the bulb getting warm. So I think I will try the normal 1/4" plate.
One more absolutely essential fact: Water expands about 1.5% as it goes from 60 F to 140 F (factoid from a water heater website). It is not at all compressable. So any such water system has to have a reservoir at the top that contains some airspace or is open to the atmosphere. A sealed system will either leak or explode when heated. If you use a clear tube to connect the system to the overflow reservoir, it could serve as a thermometer!
Yup water and electricity aint best of pals that forsure and certain...mix the two and they can be deadly. Excellent idea on the GFI to Guy... For the Aussies on the forum Clipsal make these they are available in OZ and they're cheap...
Trev is working on a lil sumthin' this evening for us Guy... he ripped a window out of his house and chopped it up is supergluing it together whacking some tape here and there and plugging a pump into it so he was mumbling between chomping down apple or steak i forget which now 😛 lol ...be interesting to see what this clever fella comes up with im sure it will be "different"
Trev is working on a lil sumthin' this evening for us Guy... he ripped a window out of his house and chopped it up is supergluing it together whacking some tape here and there and plugging a pump into it so he was mumbling between chomping down apple or steak i forget which now 😛 lol ...be interesting to see what this clever fella comes up with im sure it will be "different"
LOL, hey mate atleast i eat healthy food. Ill see what i come up with today, im going to think in it first so i dont have to go out and make a mess for nothing and i want a fully working model not just a half assed job just to show you guys what you could do lol, though, that maybe the case as i have yet to go out and look for a tap and die set, (darn shop is outa stock!).
Guy, i see 2 ways you could do this, either have a pump radiator ect for a lcd cooling system, or have a stand alone filter (more your idea) near the light or in the light path.
Standard convection movement of the water wont be enough for lcd cooling, too much water movment with a pump will give us distorted light from the current. And then to get even more technical you have to have an even flow of water over the entire area so there isnt any hot spots on the lcd as this will afect the contrast.
Trev🙂
I can remember watching a tv show about 10 years ago, where a breathable liquid was use to replace air in the lungs of rats. One of this liquids other properties was that it is non conductive, it was said that it could be used to cool computers. This stuff would make an great direct cooling system for our lcds. I think it was one of the perfluorocarbon compounds.Then again maybe I'm just dreaming.
DJ
DJ
superglue?
I think I will try silicone RTV instead of superglue. RTV is used in aquariums and to make engine gaskets, so it should have no problems with a little hot water. Even the low temperature versions are rated to over 100 C. I seem to recall that superglue (cyanoacrylate) doesn't hold up well to hot water.
My first thoughts on construction were to just glue together acrylic or polycarbonate without any metal, but when I looked up the expansion of hot water, I realized I would need to tap at least one hole in the side. I hate drilling those plastics.
BTW: The REALLY cheap and easy way to test the concept is to put 2 cm of water in a clear pyrex baking dish. Cover it with a piece of clear plastic wrap from the kitchen, held tight with a big rubber band. Then (very carefully!) put that in the light path. Then see if you can see waves or other disturbances in the projected image.
I think I will try silicone RTV instead of superglue. RTV is used in aquariums and to make engine gaskets, so it should have no problems with a little hot water. Even the low temperature versions are rated to over 100 C. I seem to recall that superglue (cyanoacrylate) doesn't hold up well to hot water.
My first thoughts on construction were to just glue together acrylic or polycarbonate without any metal, but when I looked up the expansion of hot water, I realized I would need to tap at least one hole in the side. I hate drilling those plastics.
BTW: The REALLY cheap and easy way to test the concept is to put 2 cm of water in a clear pyrex baking dish. Cover it with a piece of clear plastic wrap from the kitchen, held tight with a big rubber band. Then (very carefully!) put that in the light path. Then see if you can see waves or other disturbances in the projected image.
Wasnt star trek was it? 😀
I hope not, anything that contains fluoride in it is deadly poisonous. Ever wonderd why metal cleaner shines metal so well and so fast? the active ingredient is flourocilic acid. 1 drop of that on a persons hand will kill them in under 20mins, and has the potentional to eat away all of the bones in under 24hrs, ahhhhhh thats why it whitens your teeth!!
Trev🙂
This is the stuff
Well it isn't a Liquid O2 mix but this is better...
This is the stuff: Fluorinert
Check out this cooling system for a PC
http://www.octools.com/index.cgi?caller=submersion.html
Here is the 3M site for the Fluorinert:
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/...oilgas_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html
And you can buy it here:
http://www.hamptonresearch.com/hrproducts/2797.html
Dazzzla said:
Well it isn't a Liquid O2 mix but this is better...
This is the stuff: Fluorinert
Check out this cooling system for a PC
http://www.octools.com/index.cgi?caller=submersion.html
Here is the 3M site for the Fluorinert:
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/...oilgas_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html
And you can buy it here:
http://www.hamptonresearch.com/hrproducts/2797.html
breathable liquid
Flourine gas is very poisonous and florine is very active chemically because it will combine with a lot of other stuff and release some energy. But the result will be stable. Kind of like HCl and NaOH are very corrosive, but you mix them together and get H2O + NaCl: Salt water, which is not very toxic!
Lots of florocarbons are very harmless liquids. Go out and rent "The Abyss" DVD. Actor Ed Harris really did "breathe" that stuff when they shot the film. It is not a special effect. (BTW, he said he felt like he was gonna die.) It is also now used as an experimental blood replacement.
But using a florocarbon (like Freon) may be good for transporting heat from one location to another (by evaporation and condensation), that is not really the problem in a projector. Hot parts emit long-wave IR, but you can just cool them with fans.
We need to remove short-wave IR from the light before it hits the LCD. Water is great at doing just that. And it does it very selectively because it passes most of the visible light.
So I just went to a nearby surplus metal shop and got some aluminum channel, and a glass shop to order some 1/4" plate glass. $25 US so far, and I still need to get some RTV and brass fittings (AND MY GFI OUTLET
). I already have pipe thread taps. Fun, fun, fun...
Flourine gas is very poisonous and florine is very active chemically because it will combine with a lot of other stuff and release some energy. But the result will be stable. Kind of like HCl and NaOH are very corrosive, but you mix them together and get H2O + NaCl: Salt water, which is not very toxic!
Lots of florocarbons are very harmless liquids. Go out and rent "The Abyss" DVD. Actor Ed Harris really did "breathe" that stuff when they shot the film. It is not a special effect. (BTW, he said he felt like he was gonna die.) It is also now used as an experimental blood replacement.
But using a florocarbon (like Freon) may be good for transporting heat from one location to another (by evaporation and condensation), that is not really the problem in a projector. Hot parts emit long-wave IR, but you can just cool them with fans.
We need to remove short-wave IR from the light before it hits the LCD. Water is great at doing just that. And it does it very selectively because it passes most of the visible light.
So I just went to a nearby surplus metal shop and got some aluminum channel, and a glass shop to order some 1/4" plate glass. $25 US so far, and I still need to get some RTV and brass fittings (AND MY GFI OUTLET
). I already have pipe thread taps. Fun, fun, fun...
Seems the race is on...will Guy get the RTV and brass fittings or will Ace get his hands on a tap and die set first... im eagerley awaiting the outcome eitherway...very interesting fellas
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