I just fried my T4 🙁
I used the 500W 36VAC Toroid like Ampit in this thread did. The first few times no problem, and now it got fire... What did I do wrong?
I used the 500W 36VAC Toroid like Ampit in this thread did. The first few times no problem, and now it got fire... What did I do wrong?
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CrashHouse, Can you post pictures of your torroid connections
I bought a T4 board and a connexelectronics 500 power from a friend, I also had a meanwell clone 48v 350w power supply so I decided to try both supplies to see proformance . listening to my flac collection through a decent dac on my sony sp6000 towers rated at 180w 8ohm . I found no difference between the two power supplies where the sound was concerned, zero , I was thinking of trying torroidal power supply to compare how that sounds but your expierience is making me think twice. Just for information the T4 has gobs of great sounding power enough to tear my speakers apart if i let it . The sound is clean and sweet and really makes you want to listen more I have tried many diy amps I would rate the tk2050 as best sounding but anemic in power . the T4 really is that tiny blow your socks off wow factor amp we always hear of. will be trying the 3050 tripath as soon as i am sure its not a trial but a well reviewed board ......Dio
I bought a T4 board and a connexelectronics 500 power from a friend, I also had a meanwell clone 48v 350w power supply so I decided to try both supplies to see proformance . listening to my flac collection through a decent dac on my sony sp6000 towers rated at 180w 8ohm . I found no difference between the two power supplies where the sound was concerned, zero , I was thinking of trying torroidal power supply to compare how that sounds but your expierience is making me think twice. Just for information the T4 has gobs of great sounding power enough to tear my speakers apart if i let it . The sound is clean and sweet and really makes you want to listen more I have tried many diy amps I would rate the tk2050 as best sounding but anemic in power . the T4 really is that tiny blow your socks off wow factor amp we always hear of. will be trying the 3050 tripath as soon as i am sure its not a trial but a well reviewed board ......Dio
I removed the board to make pics for Steinar. They believe that the problem is too high a voltage at a short time after the amp is turned on. That is probably causing it. They will be adjusting the voltage downwards, but at this time I'm stuck with my €65,00 toroid I cannot use. The toroid was connected at the two 36 volt leads, which measured 34,8 volts (no load).
I removed the board to make pics for Steinar. They believe that the problem is too high a voltage at a short time after the amp is turned on. That is probably causing it. They will be adjusting the voltage downwards, but at this time I'm stuck with my €65,00 toroid I cannot use. The toroid was connected at the two 36 volt leads, which measured 34,8 volts (no load).
An idea - Could you maybe unwind it? It might still be a good fit for a T4 if you can.
An idea - Could you maybe unwind it? It might still be a good fit for a T4 if you can.
You mean the toroidal transformer?
Yep!
Hmmm. really mean unwind or wind extra to lower the secondary AC voltage?
I'll take a look at it tomorrow.
Hmmm. really mean unwind or wind extra to lower the secondary AC voltage?
I'll take a look at it tomorrow.
I'm not 100% sure how it's done, I've only seen it discussed, but yes, unwind as in take a few loops off the secondary side I think.
As Google is my friend, this post caught my eye:
"There's another way to do this that doesn't involve discombobulating the transformer. Simply wind another few turns on the outside of the toroid (using heavy gauge insulated wire), and connect them in series with the existing secondary winding. Then, use a multimeter to test for the correct phasing. One connection polarity will increase the secondary voltage, and the other one will decrease it."
Anyone can confirm this?
"There's another way to do this that doesn't involve discombobulating the transformer. Simply wind another few turns on the outside of the toroid (using heavy gauge insulated wire), and connect them in series with the existing secondary winding. Then, use a multimeter to test for the correct phasing. One connection polarity will increase the secondary voltage, and the other one will decrease it."
Anyone can confirm this?
Yes. This is something I discovered for myself. In my case, I introduced it into the primary circuit (needs careful insulation!). But it should work equally well in the secondary.
Yes. This is something I discovered for myself. In my case, I introduced it into the primary circuit (needs careful insulation!). But it should work equally well in the secondary.
Okay gonne try this first!
Dead T4
ok guys my Hifimediy T4 and Connexelectronic SMPS500R 48V 230V came today. I have wired it together as best i could, using some online pictures for help. The problem is that it is dead. there is no sound at all coming from the smps,I expected a little hum. none of the lights come on on the T4. can someone look at my wiring to see if I have connected it up right?
ok guys my Hifimediy T4 and Connexelectronic SMPS500R 48V 230V came today. I have wired it together as best i could, using some online pictures for help. The problem is that it is dead. there is no sound at all coming from the smps,I expected a little hum. none of the lights come on on the T4. can someone look at my wiring to see if I have connected it up right?
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When I hold the SMPS with mains terminal in front of you, from left to right i have wired it Earth, Neutral, Live.ok guys my Hifimediy T4 and Connexelectronic SMPS500R 48V 230V came today. I have wired it together as best i could, using some online pictures for help. The problem is that it is dead. there is no sound at all coming from the smps,I expected a little hum. none of the lights come on on the T4. can someone look at my wiring to see if I have connected it up right?
I cannot see very clear but seems that the GND is not connected at all. if you are using the single voltage version, the GND is in the middle and the positive terminals are the first and third, which are connected together to double the output current capability. please read on the manual http://www.connexelectronic.com/documents/SMPS300R.pdf page 4 top.
another thing what i see, the output voltage adjust potentiometer lost it's hat. have you tried to adjust the voltage using a bigger screwdriver ? do not connect the smps to the amp yet, disconnect all the wires and check the output voltage without load. if the potentiometer was damaged, the output voltage might increase to about 120-130% of the nominal output voltage due to lack of feedback and the smps might enter in overvoltage protection mode.
if the voltage is fine, connect the amp, with correct polarity.
another thing what i see, the output voltage adjust potentiometer lost it's hat. have you tried to adjust the voltage using a bigger screwdriver ? do not connect the smps to the amp yet, disconnect all the wires and check the output voltage without load. if the potentiometer was damaged, the output voltage might increase to about 120-130% of the nominal output voltage due to lack of feedback and the smps might enter in overvoltage protection mode.
if the voltage is fine, connect the amp, with correct polarity.
you was right Cristi. I connected the earth instead of the negative terminal at it began to work. Do I need to connect the negative terminal too, it appears to be working with just the positive and earth. Will this reduce the current or voltage if i leave unconnected?I cannot see very clear but seems that the GND is not connected at all. if you are using the single voltage version, the GND is in the middle and the positive terminals are the first and third, which are connected together to double the output current capability. please read on the manual .
I did try to adjust the voltage when it was not powering the T4. The white plastic cover popped off but the potentiometer still appears to work underneath. the white cover does not appear to clip back on.another thing what i see, the output voltage adjust potentiometer lost it's hat. have you tried to adjust the voltage using a bigger screwdriver
Update
I managed to turn the voltage down to 33.1 Volts with about 4 windings. I used solid core isolated copper wire and it appears to be stable. I must say it is not the nicest solution in say estatics, but it works very well. Now I have to wait for my new T4s with the Mundorf caps. I had to pay a little more, but then again anything to improve the sound is welcome. I'll keep you updated and will post any pics when everything is done and ofcourse works. 😀
Btw meanwhile I'm upgrading my Klipsch KG 4.2. Like a ti dome and better wiring. Any suggestions for a replacement crossover in addition to the T4s?
Okay gonne try this first!
I managed to turn the voltage down to 33.1 Volts with about 4 windings. I used solid core isolated copper wire and it appears to be stable. I must say it is not the nicest solution in say estatics, but it works very well. Now I have to wait for my new T4s with the Mundorf caps. I had to pay a little more, but then again anything to improve the sound is welcome. I'll keep you updated and will post any pics when everything is done and ofcourse works. 😀
Btw meanwhile I'm upgrading my Klipsch KG 4.2. Like a ti dome and better wiring. Any suggestions for a replacement crossover in addition to the T4s?
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Update
I managed to turn the voltage down to 33.1 Volts with about 4 windings. I used solid core isolated copper wire and it appears to be stable. I must say it is not the nicest solution in say estatics, but it works very well. Now I have to wait for my new T4s with the Mundorf caps. I had to pay a little more, but then again anything to improve the sound is welcome. I'll keep you updated and will post any pics when everything is done and ofcourse works. 😀
Okay gonne try this first!
I managed to turn the voltage down to 33.1 Volts with about 4 windings. I used solid core isolated copper wire and it appears to be stable. I must say it is not the nicest solution in say estatics, but it works very well. Now I have to wait for my new T4s with the Mundorf caps. I had to pay a little more, but then again anything to improve the sound is welcome. I'll keep you updated and will post any pics when everything is done and ofcourse works. 😀
... Now I have to wait for my new T4s with the Mundorf caps. I had to pay a little more, but then again anything to improve the sound is welcome. I'll keep you updated and will post any pics when everything is done and ofcourse works. 😀
Mundorf caps? I was just searching for some Mundorf M cap Supremes for inputs on my T4. The WIMAs just wore me out, too much midrange and no texture, everything to me sounded glossy.
I settled for some Dayton 1% precision audio with polyester bypass and it is quite an improvement and may not even get the Mundorf now.
The T4 sounds astounding now and am having some friends over to show it off.
Almost 100,000 uF power reserve and a 500VA provide some generous and very tight bass, tighter than from anything else I own. There are some qualities in this amp that I just do not hear in anything else.
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