An example of how to clean out old ferrofluid and replace it with new is given here:
Replace ferrofluid in tweeter - a B&W tweeter as an example
Replace ferrofluid in tweeter - a B&W tweeter as an example
A suitable replacement tweeter for the one in the Heybrook HB1 is the Vifa D27TG or the Scanspeak D2606 9220.00
Vifa D27TG-35-06 Diameter 104mm
Scanspeak Discovery D2606/9220 00
Vifa D27TG-35-06 Diameter 104mm
Scanspeak Discovery D2606/9220 00
Could it have become too viscous (gummy) with age?
Now, as I suggested earlier, try a different tweeter or a small loudspeaker on your crossover network - just to rule out the capacitors as the problem.
Now, as I suggested earlier, try a different tweeter or a small loudspeaker on your crossover network - just to rule out the capacitors as the problem.
I was try with another speaker.
I connect with capacitor 3.7uF and music was very quiet and wheezing.
For sure i wont to ask about gainclone.... Maybe something is wrong with my power amplifier?
I connect with capacitor 3.7uF and music was very quiet and wheezing.
For sure i wont to ask about gainclone.... Maybe something is wrong with my power amplifier?
Is the light brown material touching the dome and attenuating the sound?
What happens if you remove it and re assemble the tweeter for a quick test?
What happens if you remove it and re assemble the tweeter for a quick test?
Hi. Everything with tweeter its ok. They dont touch.
For now i go to gainclone. I check it.
How can I test it when he is connected?
When i check signal to speaker right have 1-1,8v. Left only 1.6 to 1.7v. When i give full power right have high olmost 150voltage. Left speaker have 1.6-1.9 v.
I think LM 3875 its damage.
For now i go to gainclone. I check it.
How can I test it when he is connected?
When i check signal to speaker right have 1-1,8v. Left only 1.6 to 1.7v. When i give full power right have high olmost 150voltage. Left speaker have 1.6-1.9 v.
I think LM 3875 its damage.
Your Gainclone amplifier may have been damaged when you connected it to your newly obtained Heybrook HB1 speakers.
One of the crossovers originally had that stranded copper wire soldered in place - apparently to convert the bi-wire terminals to single wire connection.
Connecting to the wrong terminals on that speaker would have short circuited that channel of your amp.
Anyway, as this now appears to be an amplifier problem, I suggest you close this thread and open a new one in the appropriate 'Amplifiers' section of the forum.
One of the crossovers originally had that stranded copper wire soldered in place - apparently to convert the bi-wire terminals to single wire connection.
Connecting to the wrong terminals on that speaker would have short circuited that channel of your amp.
Anyway, as this now appears to be an amplifier problem, I suggest you close this thread and open a new one in the appropriate 'Amplifiers' section of the forum.
Galu thank you for fast response.
I have a question about this bewiring.
This is possible to make one wiring? With this speakers?
I have a question about this bewiring.
This is possible to make one wiring? With this speakers?
Please post a photograph of the terminal side (the side you plug the speakers cables into) of the crossover board so that I can instruct you correctly.
The attached diagrams show the difference between bi-wiring and single wiring.
The 'links' shown in the single wiring diagram can simply be short lengths of copper wire.
It is best to link the terminals outside the cabinet as shown. Linking them inside, as appears to have been done with one of your speakers, can lead to disaster!
If you understand that, then there's no need to post the photograph I asked for.
The 'links' shown in the single wiring diagram can simply be short lengths of copper wire.
It is best to link the terminals outside the cabinet as shown. Linking them inside, as appears to have been done with one of your speakers, can lead to disaster!
If you understand that, then there's no need to post the photograph I asked for.
The copper wire links I referred to in post #31 are already in place on your terminal board.
So, you just have to plug the loudspeaker cable from the amp into one of the pairs of red and black terminals, as shown in the single wiring connection in post #32.
So, you just have to plug the loudspeaker cable from the amp into one of the pairs of red and black terminals, as shown in the single wiring connection in post #32.
As if by magic, the copper wire links have now disappeared from your image in post 35!
Am I seeing things! 😱
Put the links back for single wiring!
Am I seeing things! 😱
Put the links back for single wiring!
I can't help but think there is some room for confusion here! 😕
Compare the two attachments.
Note that the left hand board is wired correctly and that the right hand board is wired incorrectly (those thick copper wire links should not placed on this side of the board).
Compare the two attachments.
Note that the left hand board is wired correctly and that the right hand board is wired incorrectly (those thick copper wire links should not placed on this side of the board).
Attachments
I think I now see what's been going!
The board on the left had its links installed externally and the board on the right had its links installed internally - correct?
Both boards should have external links only which will allow them be single wired as shown in post #32.
The board on the left had its links installed externally and the board on the right had its links installed internally - correct?
Both boards should have external links only which will allow them be single wired as shown in post #32.