Sure, it would be like a round U-/H-frame depending on realization.
Same accounts for the resulting resonance frequency caused by the length of the "tunnel"
I think it can potentially even look better than those big "blocky" h-frames that (IMHO) are not very living-room friendly (read "low WAF").
Here´s an example:
The Kjeldsen OB build thread
Same accounts for the resulting resonance frequency caused by the length of the "tunnel"
I think it can potentially even look better than those big "blocky" h-frames that (IMHO) are not very living-room friendly (read "low WAF").
Here´s an example:
The Kjeldsen OB build thread
Much that's wise in joensd's reply.
Can't find it now, but a year or two ago, I posted a piece about rear waves. The Rice-Kellogg driver has that damn rear wave. The question is how to harness it (without impairing the front wave like BR or large open baffle) or how to muffle it (like sealed box or infinite baffle or.... large open baffle).
Best to think in terms of solving the rear wave problem, and with my 17-foot labyrinth being my favourite solution. Resembles your Sonotube idea, eh.
B.
Great vis-a-vis the Sonotube idea.
Now some more questions...
I wonder if a Sonotube cylinder would advantages over an H-frame? Would they have less standing waves? Just wondering.
I have four Eminece OB-A15neo: 15” Neodymium Woofers (from an old PureAudioProject build I did some years ago) sitting in boxes.
I've thought to stick 2 of them in 2 sections of Sonotube (and mate them with DMLs).
16" x 4' Sonotube costs about $20.00. I think the drivers would fit nicely.
That said should I look at larger diameter Sonotubes?
Given less volume in a Sonotube tunnel vs a standard H-frame of the same length, would I need a longer tunnel vs an H-frame?
I have a large room (a loft in an old industrial building), roughly 16' wide X 60' long X 12' high. See attached rough floor plan.
My DMLs hang from a large bookcase/room divider and would hang above the subs.
Any suggestions on what length of Sonotubes to use?
Thanks,
- Andreas
Now some more questions...
I wonder if a Sonotube cylinder would advantages over an H-frame? Would they have less standing waves? Just wondering.
I have four Eminece OB-A15neo: 15” Neodymium Woofers (from an old PureAudioProject build I did some years ago) sitting in boxes.
I've thought to stick 2 of them in 2 sections of Sonotube (and mate them with DMLs).
16" x 4' Sonotube costs about $20.00. I think the drivers would fit nicely.
That said should I look at larger diameter Sonotubes?
Given less volume in a Sonotube tunnel vs a standard H-frame of the same length, would I need a longer tunnel vs an H-frame?
I have a large room (a loft in an old industrial building), roughly 16' wide X 60' long X 12' high. See attached rough floor plan.
My DMLs hang from a large bookcase/room divider and would hang above the subs.
Any suggestions on what length of Sonotubes to use?
Thanks,
- Andreas
Attachments
I did this about 6 months ago with a 15" driver in a 4' length of 16" diameter concrete form (e.g. a Sonotube type form). It worked OK but there was too much vibration for my liking. This was probably due to the low mass overall compared to the driver's cone mass. I didn't quite like the response at the front and rear mouth but this was likely because I was using an old OB driver that has not been used for years and that may have aged. In general you should be able to design this just like any other H-frame (the round cross section does not matter, it's the depth that is important). Resonances formed in the transverse direction will be stronger than for a square cross section, however.
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CharlieLaub -- Interesting, guidance appreciated. Many thanks.
This thread has me thinking further.
Last night, I found myself looking at the large freestanding bookcase | room divider in front of which I have my DMLs.
The bookcase, 18" deep, opens to both sides.
It seems like I could pretty easily build in the sub woofers (I'd do a pair) - embedded H-frames.
I'd likely need to give some thought to massing up the frame or isolating it from the bookcase.
Thoughts?
This thread has me thinking further.
Last night, I found myself looking at the large freestanding bookcase | room divider in front of which I have my DMLs.
The bookcase, 18" deep, opens to both sides.
It seems like I could pretty easily build in the sub woofers (I'd do a pair) - embedded H-frames.
I'd likely need to give some thought to massing up the frame or isolating it from the bookcase.
Thoughts?
Sequestering the rear wave in a large hollow hard tube is not good. The interior walls forming my 17-foot labyrinth were made from a kind of compressed shredded cellulose fiber used for "acoustic" ceiling tiles. And then, like all TLs, filled with lots of stuffing. That de-tuned the labyrinth without too greatly blocking it.
I made a giant OB once. I mounted a large sheet of particle-board like an apron on a heavy table, on the long axis. So the table top was part of the baffle. For an OB, you really need to think in relative terms of how much distance your can grab in any way and any direction possible.
B.
I made a giant OB once. I mounted a large sheet of particle-board like an apron on a heavy table, on the long axis. So the table top was part of the baffle. For an OB, you really need to think in relative terms of how much distance your can grab in any way and any direction possible.
B.