Help to choose the ultimate midrange driver

Got it

I checked out that driver also and im sure it's worth a try

*no stuffing on interior walls of cabinet or near driver or port opening (in-cabinet).
-where do i put the stuffing?

I was thinking i build a 10 liter box, i will try a pair of flexunits, got them Cheapy and they Will arrive in a week☺️

If i make the box like a cannon 17*17*45cm h*b*d with s 50mm port in the back?

I want to limit the dispersion to have a Little bit more isolated sound


About the Visaton:



Basically what I'm saying here is that you can achieve smoother sound that's almost as detailed as the Visaton with the very inexpensive Peerless TC9F when loaded in a larger volume bass-reflex (deep) *cabinet tuned to lower than 70 Hz (rear facing port) and with an appropriate high-pass filter around 300 Hz. Depth of field will be MUCH better than with the Visaton in a small over-stuffed box.

*no stuffing on interior walls of cabinet or near driver or port opening (in-cabinet).

I wouldn't call this an "ultimate" midrange result.. but absent a bit of detail -it won't be that far off IF it's done properly (..as previously mentioned with the AT and its box/port configuration).
 
Note: I did a basic model of the 4" Flexunit, it looks like it would be around *8 liters w/ a 50 Hz tuning freq. w/ 1 vent about *2 inches in diameter with a box shape of about:

width: 5" (..though you will likely have some chamfered panels added to the box for better diffraction performance: EDIT - as noted below in the next quote.)
height: 9" (with the midrange closer to the bottom of the baffle, and the vent closer to the top of the enclosure exiting the back panel.)
Depth: *12"

Again, with a high pass filter around 250-300 Hz.

*these can be a bit variable depending on cabinet wall thickness, vent length relative to the interior of the box, and box depth relative to the box below it (..you don't want the midrange box over-hanging the base cabinet). 50 Hz isn't "fixed" either, but it should not be to far off of this. Of course remember that actual T/S parameters will vary with a real driver, and Fs in particularly is usually higher than spec.ed (w/ Vas often being a bit lower).. In other words, some changes might be required (..though absolute precision isn't required in this use-case because the high-pass filter is so much higher than the port resonance).

If you like what you are currently getting in the configuration, I'd say stick with it but make some *large round-overs on the sides of the face-plate ..to lower diffraction a bit.

*at least an inch.

So basically a "box" of it's own but is only wider ..by virtue of the added round-overs.

This would work reasonably well with angled/chamfered edges (instead of round-overs):
 
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*no stuffing on interior walls of cabinet or near driver or port opening (in-cabinet).
-where do i put the stuffing?

..do an inch+ wrap around the vent - keeping that wrap OFF of the top of the interior by at least an inch. I use 1.5" ultra-touch insulation (it's a full cotton re-bond batting - basically cloths dryer lint and other fiber bonded together).. there should be something similar to that near you. I'd wax (slippery smooth) the interior walls of the cabinet AND the interior of the vent pipe.

The vent should extend most of the length of the cabinet interior depending on vent diameter tuning freq. and cabinet size relative to the driver's actual T/S parameters.
 
Got it

I want to limit the dispersion to have a Little bit more isolated sound

You don't want to do that - it's a step in the wrong direction subjectively speaking.

IF you've got problems with mid. freq.s with respect to walls, then use 3" plus thick panels of rockwool on the walls around the speakers. (..and typically decorate the panels with an open-weave fabric of choice.)
 
Got it, it was just an idea=)

I will do the box as you advised


Originally Posted by ScottG View Post

Note: I did a basic model of the 4" Flexunit, it looks like it would be around *8 liters w/ a 50 Hz tuning freq. w/ 1 vent about *2 inches in diameter with a box shape of about:

width: 5" (..though you will likely have some chamfered panels added to the box for better diffraction performance: EDIT - as noted below in the next quote.)
height: 9" (with the midrange closer to the bottom of the baffle, and the vent closer to the top of the enclosure exiting the back panel.)
Depth: *12"

Again, with a high pass filter around 250-300 Hz.
 
Understand!

I will be able to try any kind of settings
I am agfraid i am falling a little bit behind with the testing , , hopefully tonight ill get to plug in a better mic=)


It is so very valuabe that its poossible to save as many configurations that you like on the dbx.

Very easy to get lost changing
I applied pretty much EQ and it sounds nice=)


Yes - it is correct that if you can avoid crossing in the middle of where our ears are most senstive to most kinds of distortions and deviations - then it's a good idea.
But if you can do it nicely - then the benefits can outweigh the potential issues.
So of course you need to be careful with the tuning, EQ and filters and mix of drivers. But in a double blind test. It has been proven that when comparing the JBL M2 with the Revel Salon 2 - within reason - meaing considering max spl and other factors. Then people like them for some of the same reaons - a good polar response and even flat frequency response - not expensive drivers and many other fanzy exotic details. But mainly because they both carry the same basic sensible design - which covers what our ears likes the most.
 
that could inspire you ! google translate is your friend : ribon + audiotechnology + peereless hds , serie filter in the tweeter & mids for the enthusiasts ... liquenz - audiyofield
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Checking, might need to try a ribbon also



@ D. : all these 15" drivers you're talking too are very good for hifi project, procure a chest experience none of the 6" or 8" in quantity enough to make the same Sd can procure as testimonied man people.
Yes these ones can go to 700 hz and above :eek:ften a little harmless dip around 1k but the off axis suffer for a sota overlap around XO imho.

Yes i will use the response for overlap in crossover
its changable anytime and i think that is great that it could be listened to and adjusted, trying new settingd
The manufacturer of the 15" advised to cross up to 800



You should not forgett in your project that the mid driver has two fire 2 octaves and it's way better at 3 octaves cause the low & high passes are far from each other.
The AMT will not suffer to be crossed higher than 2k hz for the global sounding quality of your project imho. You have it, use it, its clarity is certainly a good atch with the SVS you like that use a metal dome : the AMT is certainly better due to a cleaner waterfall and precision : just the "speed" and tone due of that is a challenge for the mid, hence all the posts from the contributors.
As said 125 hz (more or less beginning of voice but tenor and baryton- to 2000/4000 hz is great for the voice (I'm a fan of around 100 hz xo in my hoe speakers while as said in the beginning : FR here means low spl and more distorsion - cause low size mid but the soundstage is also better : trade offs !
You could certainly xo around 300 hz where there is often a dip in most cabinet room placment but you have to measure it in your room related to the waf and how react the room (can be something dips arond 250 to 400 hz


according the room and speakers placment in the limit of the waf : no more than 1 meter from the front bafle before the spouse cry and sing the Travatia showing you the outside door or worse the window ! Here a 15" could be the good candidate with a 6" : SB Satori 300 to the AMT, The illuminator, the Audiotechnology and the very good Revelator according many - but the satori they are scalled by proce order. The audiotechnology being certainly the closer to the SVS but I surmise the Peerless HDS Nomex 6" for a low price and sound will be closer to the what you experienced in the SVS ;)... in the SVS two 6" are used for the bass but you can use the Peereless up t0 2k certainly to the AMT : you need simulations.


I say 6" cause the too big size difference between two drivers is not advised too much : a 15" with a 4" or 5" : but experienced designers or help in the XO drawing... I have not that knowledge, many have it here though.


- Well i was thinking about this but does it make a difference when crossed at 300 if the mid is small?


If Scott told you the Visaton, believe him, he adviced me for a tweeter that is cheap for a refurbishing of a friend loudspeaker and that was a very valuable advice (thanks again ScottG :) ) I was surprised by the cheap sb26STAC 1" tweeter dome unit considering the price and the friens could not be happier.

-Defenitely bellieve him
I might just have got another idea what was the best use for te Visaton driver






cheers, hope that helps.... Seems clear to me that your mid should be a 3 or 4 octave wild to putt the AMT the higher you can for a non sound mismatch in the high mid & low treble tonality and also to be lower than 400 hz if you can but a good XO will be harmless if a 15" is crossed above... but what about the 2 or 3 octaves width of the mid then ???? ;)

-How do you mean "but what about the 2 or 3 octaves width of the mid then ???? ;)"

=)


Again all these rules apply more in theory, surely experienced designer know how to break them I surmise.[/QUOTE]
 
Dropbox - 20201008_193225 (1).mp4 - Simplify your life

Frequency response movie
Not very much midrange here

Also it seems the amt is lacking in the higher frequencies
I eqed the amt to be play louder in the higher frequencies so it's strange

Got to check the eq...

You got some nice juicy standing wave there at 40Hz. I have one at 45.
Its good but you should put on a good bass kick song and make a cut (if it sounds swollen). Boom but not swollen :p

This is a good song to take control over the standing waves
Rammstein - Los (Official Audio) - YouTube
 

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The bass standing wave yes, it's the infinite baffle crossed 45hz
It is one eminence kilomax 18.
It does a pretty good job but won't go that low so i suppose the kick is because of its rolloff


now this is not a good measurements because i have turn the left channels off and the infinite baffle was still on.

The base is actually very Good, tight fast and a Little bit deep
i think it will be better when the new 18 inch woofer arrive
 
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You got some nice juicy standing wave there at 40Hz. I have one at 45.
Its good but you should put on a good bass kick song and make a cut (if it sounds swollen). Boom but not swollen :p

This is a good song to take control over the standing waves
Rammstein - Los (Official Audio) - YouTube


The bass is very precise in this song when playing in this system
I do not like to much bass and here it's all Good ☺️
 
Really hard to get rid of the standing wave
i have crossed my infinite baffle subwoofer on 45 Hz
I have a separate filter with No EQ

Should not be a problem but it is
The eminence kilomax18 won't go so deep so it need some gain to compensate.

I think the se ib18ht Will be alot better don't you?


You got some nice juicy standing wave there at 40Hz. I have one at 45.
Its good but you should put on a good bass kick song and make a cut (if it sounds swollen). Boom but not swollen :p

This is a good song to take control over the standing waves
Rammstein - Los (Official Audio) - YouTube