Cool! Surprisingly, none of the listings were USA, but then [not to 'rub it in'] cheesecloth is plentiful/cheap.
You're right GM. Just found cheesecloth for 80rsd/1m2. Thats about 0.8$
http://www.tangoks.com/производ/cedilo-za-sir-105x105/
http://www.tangoks.com/производ/cedilo-za-sir-105x105/
Hi Danny, that's some nice information there. But don't you think that the flux paths are equally orthogonal in both Fig. 5 and Fig. 6 on Mr. Gravesen's website that is, "out of table / towards screen (90*) in Fig. 5" and "out of table / parallel to screen (also 90*)" in Fig. 6 ? Hope you understand what I'm saying. Thanks for the link.
DrZoidberg said:
I think the new placement is alright. You may reduce the distances or else the capacitors will end up having long interconnections, needing more copper (cost/inductance/size). Hope you have a PCB plan for the network.
You're right about the saturation current limit, one needs the biggest value that he/she can get for the size/money. However, note that we always look for air-core inductors first (end-game).
In case of 5 and 6, imagine the flux as a line through the core donut hole.
In case of 5, the left coil has a vertical flux line, the right has a horizontal flux line that goes through the left core, the flux lines are crossing.
For 6, the right has a horizontal flux line that doesn't go through the left core, the flux lines are not crossing and also not parallel.
In case of 5, the left coil has a vertical flux line, the right has a horizontal flux line that goes through the left core, the flux lines are crossing.
For 6, the right has a horizontal flux line that doesn't go through the left core, the flux lines are not crossing and also not parallel.
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Thanks, i totally forgot about those oldschool diapers, material and weave is the same i think as standard cheesecloth.
Regarding this talk/blow test, should it allow or block it ? For thicker damping i get it should block it, but dont know about "cheesecloth"
Well, leads on coils are very short anyway, i was thinking to use some copper wire i had leftover from where i had to reduce two air coils, they were slightly bigger values.
PCB will be this white plywood board, going to paint it black, drill holes for leads and zipties. and then raise it with little wood feet or something. I plan on keeping XO board outside, near amp.
I know everyone preference is air coils, why is this ?
danny_66 said:
So it's not enough if the flux paths are perpendicular, they should not be crossing each other, got it, thank you very much!
DrZoidberg said:
I suggest you make a proper "printed" board as the capacitor leads need to be fairly low inductance. On a PCB, this becomes possible as the trace width can be widened (less inductance) as far there's space. Note that the copper wire/plywood method fails in this respect.
Air-core are preferred in the audio industry as they don't exhibit any non-linear behaviour (vs. steel/ferrite) such as saturation, hysteresis, remnance etc.
Well i dont think its possible to make a PCB, and at this point it will be additional hassle i have to take care of.
Maybe i can optimize placement so it only uses components leads. But i still want to make sure two ferrite coils are in opposite corners from each other, min 20cm. Air coils i can stack as in guide showed.
As for glasswool wrapping, could this cheesecloth silk be used ? I will see what is cheaper.
Also, i just realized i will place woofer once box is sealed, so i will have to apply it on outside rim, maybe glue it a bit or something and then install driver in cabinet.
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Since crossover networks are usually simple, I could design the PCB for you (no charges) if you have the means to get it printed. A PCB is always more reliable. Placement could be retained as you wish, not a problem. Only the circuit diagram, positioning and component sizes would be required.
In my opinion, any thin cloth would be sufficient for wrapping up the felt / glass wool. If the fibres are held together they would prefer to stay together that's all.
In my opinion, any thin cloth would be sufficient for wrapping up the felt / glass wool. If the fibres are held together they would prefer to stay together that's all.
Thats the thing, i dont know anyone who can print it. I guess design wouldnt be that hard. I do agree PCB will look nicer. For now its going on board, i could always repackage it.
This comes across like there's only one side of the coin... There are drawbacks and advantages to each type.
Anything loosely draped around anything acoustic needs to protect, yet allow sufficient airflow to minimize resistance, such as cheesecloth or similar. Apply an increasing number of layers will of course progressively increase its acoustical resistance, but you're only interested in protecting the driver, XO from any insulation dust/particles, so just a single layer. Best then to put the XO in a ventilated box.
A career in industrial electrical controls taught me that a cold welded [crimped] ring tongue connector clamped with the appropriate hardware is as good as it gets, so recommend this basic type construction:
If you're going to solder the interconnections anyway, then that's best done on a PCB. You could also use terminal blocks as mentioned by GM, if the leads lengths permit, but from the photographs you were showing, I think the components you have purchased are meant for PCB assembly.
Do you have some guide/paper that explains different types of coils ?
Soo... cheesecloth is there to prevent stuff flying into the speaker etc... not to adjust something acoustically. Maybe better to put it on smaller array speakers than the bass if this is the case.
I think the same cheesecloth that you put behind the grille (if any), can also be used to wrap up the glasswool, you don't need to buy other fabric. Just make sure it's breathable like bandage gauze, that's enough.
Cheers!
Cheers!
I can't think of one aimed at regular selection of crossover coils. The standard electronics texts will explain the situation. However most coils designed for crossover use will suit most situations, even while there can be preferences.
This is not really true. Noise is a larger contributer than distortion in modern amps, so it is best to have your amplifiers not too large.