97.3dB @1m is the same as 91.3dB @2m, 85.5dB @ 4m, and so on. So what is your listening distance? Also, do remember that your tweeter doesn't look equally efficient at 86dB/1m and this may require you to settle down for ~92dB (net) sensitivity instead of 95, and add some more headroom for equalisation. I think you'll be needing at least 10W per channel, hope you have it.
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Living room has a table that will be 1, 2m away from speakers. The hole room layout will change, thats another project of mine, to redecorate the living room.
There is couch that is around 4m away, and a comfy chair that is at the end of the room.
Entire length of living room is ~6m
I do have other amps, but rather use this one i bought, i tested it today with some meh speakers 6om , and it sounds really warm and light, love the sound. Also source was a phone with really whimps RCA cables i had laying around, so when everything is setup correctly it will be decent
For cables im thinking of buying 4mm copper with silver layout, price is 5e per meter. Also thinking of using that cable aswell when i build crossover.
Regarding crossover, from what i understand, if i want to split LF and HF sections to run on two amps, it can be done. If i want to run it as single unit i will just need to bridge the terminals ? Or there is more to it and entire redesign is needed ?
For time being i will have to make ends meet ends with lower power.
Im still thinking about amp i will build and how will it all look, but im planning on 20-40w amplification class A SE.
There is couch that is around 4m away, and a comfy chair that is at the end of the room.
Entire length of living room is ~6m
I do have other amps, but rather use this one i bought, i tested it today with some meh speakers 6om , and it sounds really warm and light, love the sound. Also source was a phone with really whimps RCA cables i had laying around, so when everything is setup correctly it will be decent
For cables im thinking of buying 4mm copper with silver layout, price is 5e per meter. Also thinking of using that cable aswell when i build crossover.
Regarding crossover, from what i understand, if i want to split LF and HF sections to run on two amps, it can be done. If i want to run it as single unit i will just need to bridge the terminals ? Or there is more to it and entire redesign is needed ?
For time being i will have to make ends meet ends with lower power.
Im still thinking about amp i will build and how will it all look, but im planning on 20-40w amplification class A SE.
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Any "special" cables for speaker/crossover are not required. I use regular 4 sq. mm electrical wiring, easily available in different colours, at great prices. And do you know what pro-audio and cinema people use? Same thing!
However, always get good quality shielded cables for carrying the line-level signals (RCA), in order to avoid EMI/stray signal pickup and the tarnishing / corrosion of contacts.
You do not need for more than one amplifier, since you already have a network to split the lows and highs. With more than one amplifier, people are more likely to use active rather than passive crossover. However, if you really believe in bi-wiring, go ahead and get separate binding posts for the woofer and tweeter.
20-40W is the correct amplifier sizing for your speakers, room, seating distances and the typical SPL requirements of 80-90dB, for both music and movies.
Do show some photos when it's ready.
Cheers.
However, always get good quality shielded cables for carrying the line-level signals (RCA), in order to avoid EMI/stray signal pickup and the tarnishing / corrosion of contacts.
You do not need for more than one amplifier, since you already have a network to split the lows and highs. With more than one amplifier, people are more likely to use active rather than passive crossover. However, if you really believe in bi-wiring, go ahead and get separate binding posts for the woofer and tweeter.
20-40W is the correct amplifier sizing for your speakers, room, seating distances and the typical SPL requirements of 80-90dB, for both music and movies.
Do show some photos when it's ready.
Cheers.
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Will do, currently im debating what to do with amp, output trafos arnt grounded aswell as speaker ground, could be bit hazardous
I will have to fix that, and from looks of it rebuild/rewire amp entirely. For crossover, i was more curios if what i currently have could be used for active crossover, without changing parts ?
Yesterday i started making some layouts, im thinking of using some plastic/wood board, drill the hole for leads and layout components on top of it and do the wiring on bottom side (Use leads as much as possible and little bit of copper cable for places it cant reach. Leave crossover boards near amp for more aesthetic look and easy service/upgrade.
Active crossovers maybe made from opamp circuits at very low power as they operate before the power stages. However, passive ones consist of LP and HP filters matched to the impedances of the woofer and the tweeter respectively.
I think your idea of connecting the woofer and tweeter separately to the amplifier is known as bi-wiring, while the term that pertains to active crossover is bi-amping. Be careful not to mix these up.
I think your idea of connecting the woofer and tweeter separately to the amplifier is known as bi-wiring, while the term that pertains to active crossover is bi-amping. Be careful not to mix these up.
Little update.
I bought Alu profiles, 100x40 x 2.5mm, there are some rough edges i will have to sand, and also some scratches and dimples on body that will have to be polished. Still thinking how should i paint them.
I also ordered wood for cabinet, Poplar 15mm plywood. should arrive during next week.
Im still little conflicted on what to do with damping. I was thinking to damp all sides but the front and bottom where the bass reflex is, kinda makes sense since there are no holes or stuff on other sides.
Next week im taking some holidays so i will finish crossover, hopefully my friend with cut and paint cabinet pieces, then just to install damping and glue everything together.
I bought Alu profiles, 100x40 x 2.5mm, there are some rough edges i will have to sand, and also some scratches and dimples on body that will have to be polished. Still thinking how should i paint them.
I also ordered wood for cabinet, Poplar 15mm plywood. should arrive during next week.
Im still little conflicted on what to do with damping. I was thinking to damp all sides but the front and bottom where the bass reflex is, kinda makes sense since there are no holes or stuff on other sides.
Next week im taking some holidays so i will finish crossover, hopefully my friend with cut and paint cabinet pieces, then just to install damping and glue everything together.
I suggest you first get things functional and see if you like how it sounds. You could later come back to do the artistic part of it, painting and all. You can't paint (brush or spray) on aluminium and stainless steel directly. An acid-based etching primer is required for painting such materials.
Only 15mm? A big box like that has lower structural integrity. I would have gone for 1" board, 3/4" at the very least. It's a ported bass reflex and not a sealed box, so don't worry, it should still work fine, with bracing and all.
Thats why i want to prepare alu box before hand, but since only array will be in alu box, maybe i can do it after.
Yes, 15mm its from the manual. I spoke with my guy and no bracing needed. We are going to glue them all in one go. Thats why im thinking of adding bit more thicker damping, like at least 5cm of it on each side. 15mm was bit low for me too, but hey, if design say 15mm, lets go with it
Oh boy GM, you are just always full of useful stuff
I think il keep this one for myself and future reference, if you have more of such sites etc. cookbooks etc... please share, would love to archive all of this stuff.
On other note, quick question, regarding damping, what do you recommend for my situation ? Thickness 5 or 10mm glasswool ? Im thinking of not damping front board and bottom board.
I use to collect them along with numerous HDs full of pics, articles, etc., with consolidation as HDs got bigger, then a computer MB short?/fire ruined the HD + BU HD during a BU.
There out there though, including some old, but still pertinent, textbooks by Olson, et al, and if a dead link, many can be recovered in the web archives: Internet Archive: Wayback Machine
The pioneers taught me to line one side, back and panel opposite the vent [usually the top] with whatever density worked best, though in my case it normally was 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation [OC 703 nowadays] and only cover the other side panel if required.
Sealed were typically well stuffed using attic insulation with cheesecloth or similar lightly draped over the components: Altec Heathkit legato 2-15 inch horn & driver
Vented was critically damped using an impulse response: Click Test: Click Test | GM210 | Flickr
FWIW, recommend the industrial grade of Velcro, way stronger as I learned the hard way; just a small square at the top and bottom of something has often proven to be overkill until the weight or extension away from the mounting surface is significant.
There out there though, including some old, but still pertinent, textbooks by Olson, et al, and if a dead link, many can be recovered in the web archives: Internet Archive: Wayback Machine
The pioneers taught me to line one side, back and panel opposite the vent [usually the top] with whatever density worked best, though in my case it normally was 1" acoustic fiberglass insulation [OC 703 nowadays] and only cover the other side panel if required.
Sealed were typically well stuffed using attic insulation with cheesecloth or similar lightly draped over the components: Altec Heathkit legato 2-15 inch horn & driver
Vented was critically damped using an impulse response: Click Test: Click Test | GM210 | Flickr
FWIW, recommend the industrial grade of Velcro, way stronger as I learned the hard way; just a small square at the top and bottom of something has often proven to be overkill until the weight or extension away from the mounting surface is significant.
I have used 2" non-acoustic medium-density glasswool used for thermal insulation, available in hardware stores, works OK. You don't necessarily have to damp all the sides, but whatever you choose to do, do it for both speakers alike.
Don't worry about amplifier power, as 101 dB is good enough (I already said this earlier). However, it is always better (and reliable) if a larger amplifier (say 10W) operates at a fraction of its power capability (say 1W) than a smaller one working hard at full power.
Don't worry about amplifier power, as 101 dB is good enough (I already said this earlier). However, it is always better (and reliable) if a larger amplifier (say 10W) operates at a fraction of its power capability (say 1W) than a smaller one working hard at full power.
Ok, so wood panels arrived,
I was looking for damping material, there is 50mm glasswool
And guy also showed me this much denser fabric, its more dense and heavier, but thickness is around 10mm. I think he said its used for isolation for concrete or something.
Should i go with denser and stack it for 20mm ?
Maybe get both this and glasswool, and maybe make a sandwich fabric-glasswool-fabric ?
There is also this more lose 0.5mm fabric available aswell and is similar to the first one, its just bit lighter and less dense.
I was looking for damping material, there is 50mm glasswool
And guy also showed me this much denser fabric, its more dense and heavier, but thickness is around 10mm. I think he said its used for isolation for concrete or something.
Should i go with denser and stack it for 20mm ?
Maybe get both this and glasswool, and maybe make a sandwich fabric-glasswool-fabric ?
There is also this more lose 0.5mm fabric available aswell and is similar to the first one, its just bit lighter and less dense.
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