While I've built doweled together furniture for folks that want true vintage replicas, all I meant was I just use whatever scrap laying around, though dowel rod scraps [available in long lengths same as metal/threaded] up against a square/angled joint allows more glue/adhesive surface area.
As Allen pointed out, decent wood glue is plenty strong enough, but ideally requires very flat joints, major clamping while it [slowly] dries whereas construction adhesives sets quick, fills gaps [within reason], little/no clamping beyond just holding pieces together, comes in a calk tube for quick seam work, etc., with the downside of requiring traditional mineral spirits/paint thinner for cleanup with all that implies, so not an option for some [many?] DIYers around the world that don't have a well vented place to work.
Looks like Visaton is quite some brand around where you live.
Yes, wood glue is usually stronger than wood itself and screws are just there to hold the panels in place until the glue sets in. However, since there's no point in removing the screws afterwards, people just choose to leave them there. In other words, you may not need any screws or pegs if you have the means to properly clamp all the panels at the correct angles angles to each other.
All the best.
Well, if thats the case, im only worried now if in case of needing to open up a cabinet once its sealed, its going to be pain in the ***. Hopefully there will be no need for that 
I allways liked Visaton, i think they make great things at great price, i have used their speakers in the past, proved to be quite nice if you set them correctly. For components i never tried them, i have one or two of their air coils in my other speakers. Caps look promising, big chunky, solid weight in them. Webshop from which i ordered is like official Visaton distro center in Austria, so kinda made sense to grab everything there as it was available.
Getting Alu profile is proving to be more difficult than i originally thought. I found some online but they dont have 3mm thickness, only 2.5mm and 3.5mm, im thinking to get the thicker one.
I allways liked Visaton, i think they make great things at great price, i have used their speakers in the past, proved to be quite nice if you set them correctly. For components i never tried them, i have one or two of their air coils in my other speakers. Caps look promising, big chunky, solid weight in them. Webshop from which i ordered is like official Visaton distro center in Austria, so kinda made sense to grab everything there as it was available.
Getting Alu profile is proving to be more difficult than i originally thought. I found some online but they dont have 3mm thickness, only 2.5mm and 3.5mm, im thinking to get the thicker one.
Since all types browse the forums; for PA work apps, ideally need to remove them and filled with a sawdust/glue putty as the screws weaken the joint.
Thanks for the info, GM. I didn't know about that. Could you please also mention how the screws weaken the joints ? Is it due to the rust/chemical conversion ?
Removing screws makes sense in PA applications since the box is just starting a life of abuse and/or adverse outdoor conditions such as heat, cold, rain, snow etc.
Removing screws makes sense in PA applications since the box is just starting a life of abuse and/or adverse outdoor conditions such as heat, cold, rain, snow etc.
You're welcome! Same basics as a cardboard/metal/whatever box, i.e. it destroys the wood's structural integrity, creating a 'hot spot'/high impedance mismatch of sorts. Drop a heavy box [or light one from a high height] just glued together and it bounces/crushes while one with screws/bolted hardware ~ shatters on impact along the joint.
If you must use some sort of clamping hardware, at least keep it to an absolute minimum and nowhere near any corners [crush zone]. Better a messed up corner or two where boxes/pallets/whatever tend to hit first that can be repaired than replacing a whole one AND maybe some/all of any 'delicate'/expensive components inside.
If you must use some sort of clamping hardware, at least keep it to an absolute minimum and nowhere near any corners [crush zone]. Better a messed up corner or two where boxes/pallets/whatever tend to hit first that can be repaired than replacing a whole one AND maybe some/all of any 'delicate'/expensive components inside.
Is this from theoretical or practical experience ?
So, i talked to my friend and he will create me the cabinets and array baffle board. He will also paint them matt black which will go really nice with natural aluminum silverish color.
He will clamp everything in one go, should be sturdy enough.
We will only use screws to secure bass baffle board to the front panel.
Now that i am almost complete and everything is ordered/bought, im think about amp.
Im divided between Musical Fidelity A100x for around ~250e or some single ended tube amp (prices are 200-500e), all is second hand.
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DrZoidberg, do you plan to use a projector alongside these speakers? In that case, it's best to paint the whole thing matt black, including the aluminium portion.
Coming to amplification, here is the tube / valve forum, which is full of knowledge, experiences and recommendations.
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Ha, that sounds like a blast
By projector you mean like video projector or ? Not really, currently in living room i have two large cabinets that will be behind speakers, i know its not ideal, but in some time i will probably arrange different positioning.
Regarding amp's, its the same situation as with speakers here, new stuff is almost twice expensive than lets say in EU, best bet is second hand market, if you get lucky with some nice equipment.
I have a Kenwood KA-5090R, a nice AB class amp, but its in bad shape, corroded all over the place, loses right channel when it gets bit hot etc... i use it on my "secondary" setup in my apartment. I also have Kenwood KA 3500 which is powering a sub in said setup, but its also in bad shape.
Definitely it will be class A amplification, im just divided between cheaper solid state amps (like that Musical Fidelity A100x, which is around 20w, more than enough power for these speakers) or buying mysterious (probably hand made) tube amps.
My concern is longevity of said amp. I think chasing around tubes when they burn out will be pain in the ***. Then again, solid state in class A will be hot in standby, soo.. it also has shorter life span than pushpull AB.
My next project will most likely be to make some nice class A amp, but i yet to dive in that topic. Hek, im such a noob when it comes to speakers, i have a long way to learn before i dare to design something myself
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Finding a class A power amplifier chip would be a really difficult job since IC packages are not good at rejecting the heat generated by the high power dissipation. This is probably why most chips are class B, class AB or class D (PWM), with class A falling largely into the discrete category.
It looks to me like you may have to go with tubes.
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Hi guys,
Soo, first, i bought tube amp, 2x 3.6w which should be plenty for start, later i will plan some tube project, but first lets finish speakers
You can find said amp in this thread i made > Help chosing second hand tube amp for 95db speakers
It is option 1.
Second, holy moly, if someone told me finding Alu profiles will be hardest task i would laugh. But i found one company that have 100x40mm dimension, but thickness is avaible in 2.5mm and 4mm, but in project its 3mm. Should i get ticker or slimmer profile ?
Soo, first, i bought tube amp, 2x 3.6w which should be plenty for start, later i will plan some tube project, but first lets finish speakers
You can find said amp in this thread i made > Help chosing second hand tube amp for 95db speakers
It is option 1.
Second, holy moly, if someone told me finding Alu profiles will be hardest task i would laugh. But i found one company that have 100x40mm dimension, but thickness is avaible in 2.5mm and 4mm, but in project its 3mm. Should i get ticker or slimmer profile ?
Did you check the amplifier and speakers (electrically)? If not, I suggest you do it now just to check if everything is in order. By doing so, you could also get a rough idea of the loudness that the said amplifier and speaker could actually provide into your room.
The woofers maybe fed directly as long as the network & cabinet are not ready. The smaller ones maybe tested the same way, albeit at very, very low power, like you would check a toy speaker.
I have not understood (at all) what the function of the aluminium piece in that speaker is. If it's there just for the aesthetics then I don't think a little thicker or thinner section would really matter.
The woofers maybe fed directly as long as the network & cabinet are not ready. The smaller ones maybe tested the same way, albeit at very, very low power, like you would check a toy speaker.
I have not understood (at all) what the function of the aluminium piece in that speaker is. If it's there just for the aesthetics then I don't think a little thicker or thinner section would really matter.
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Hi Virus,
I have tested amp with seller, he had some 50's alinco speakers cc 92-93db, sounds really nice. Only problematic thing was main volume pot, which is bit dirty, but i could replace it with another or try to clean it with alcohol or benzin With this setup i could net somewhere around ~101db, good enough before i make myself a proper SE tube amp
I tested one BGS40 woofer without XO with some aiwa crap amp (like really really bad amp from mini cd player) and its sound, was quite surprised considering what was driving it.
Alu profile is a resonate chamber for 6x array speakers. On profile, there will be a cutout where wooden 9mm baffle will be placed which will hold small speakers. Alu profile will be open on both top and bottom side. Entire profile will be filled with glasswool or some other damping material, added extra where baffle will be.
I have tested amp with seller, he had some 50's alinco speakers cc 92-93db, sounds really nice. Only problematic thing was main volume pot, which is bit dirty, but i could replace it with another or try to clean it with alcohol or benzin With this setup i could net somewhere around ~101db, good enough before i make myself a proper SE tube amp
I tested one BGS40 woofer without XO with some aiwa crap amp (like really really bad amp from mini cd player) and its sound, was quite surprised considering what was driving it.
Alu profile is a resonate chamber for 6x array speakers. On profile, there will be a cutout where wooden 9mm baffle will be placed which will hold small speakers. Alu profile will be open on both top and bottom side. Entire profile will be filled with glasswool or some other damping material, added extra where baffle will be.
Since the chamber is laden with glasswool, the 2.5mm aluminium should be alright, I guess.
I have no idea about tubes, that was why I was asking. Nice to know that the amplifier and speaker sound loud enough to you.
Also, your concept of having a better amplifier later really makes sense, as the final amplifier power required is properly known only after cabinet, crossover and equalisation are done. Anything before that is just an estimate.
I have no idea about tubes, that was why I was asking. Nice to know that the amplifier and speaker sound loud enough to you.
Also, your concept of having a better amplifier later really makes sense, as the final amplifier power required is properly known only after cabinet, crossover and equalisation are done. Anything before that is just an estimate.
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In my tube help thread, one guy said this
1 Watt is 0dB Watt
20 Watts is +13dB Watts
95dB + 13 dB = 108 dB
So taking this calculation, with 3.6w i should get +5.5db, with base 95 makes it around 101-ish, good enough for start. I would rather go with quality over quantity
I have no intention of throwing private rave partys