Don't know why I didn't think of using a ruoter. I own five plus a router table and two trim routers.
Thanks for the tip.
Blessings, Terry
Thanks for the tip.
Blessings, Terry
Using routers on fiber reinforced plastics is common practice.
For a short period i worked at an aircraft plant, at the time that they built sections of F16 fighter planes.
At the facility interior parts for commercial airplanes were made.
Interior parts are commonly of honeygrate foam reinforced with prepeg Kevlar skin and sheeted with a design foil.
Those panels are baked in an autoclave oven, then with an airdriven router the sides are shaped.
Production cost for a commercial airplane locker door is around $1000 a piece, routers rule.
When i size a board i add an extra small strip of scrap board on the side that slides over the guide.
I thought about building something like a table with a special guide for the router and clamps to hold the board.
Adding and measuring a strip only takes a couple of minutes, why bother.
I have thought of a lot of stuff, but like yourself : so much to do, so little time.
currently i am thinking of using the swimming pool water in the back garden to cool the 8 Pass Aleph amplifiers that i am constructing, there is one on the forum who repeats calling me a nut.
For a short period i worked at an aircraft plant, at the time that they built sections of F16 fighter planes.
At the facility interior parts for commercial airplanes were made.
Interior parts are commonly of honeygrate foam reinforced with prepeg Kevlar skin and sheeted with a design foil.
Those panels are baked in an autoclave oven, then with an airdriven router the sides are shaped.
Production cost for a commercial airplane locker door is around $1000 a piece, routers rule.
When i size a board i add an extra small strip of scrap board on the side that slides over the guide.
I thought about building something like a table with a special guide for the router and clamps to hold the board.
Adding and measuring a strip only takes a couple of minutes, why bother.
I have thought of a lot of stuff, but like yourself : so much to do, so little time.
currently i am thinking of using the swimming pool water in the back garden to cool the 8 Pass Aleph amplifiers that i am constructing, there is one on the forum who repeats calling me a nut.
Hi jacco,
Not sure what you mean by the "extra small strip of scrap board on the side ". I think I could make a sliding board with clamps for my router table very easily. Tha t could accomidate a miriad of sizes and make quick work of shaping them. With the proper bit I might even use it for chassis parts.
You guys have got me going now. 😀
I wish I wasn't working today. 🙁
On another note.
I began soldering the components to the PCB last night. I never realized how useful the screening on those pre-made boards are. Man, I was worn out from first searching the board, then the diagram then the parts list. Whew, it took me over twice as long to assemble as one with the silk screening. All part of learning I suppose. 🙂
Blessings, Terry
Not sure what you mean by the "extra small strip of scrap board on the side ". I think I could make a sliding board with clamps for my router table very easily. Tha t could accomidate a miriad of sizes and make quick work of shaping them. With the proper bit I might even use it for chassis parts.
You guys have got me going now. 😀
I wish I wasn't working today. 🙁
On another note.
I began soldering the components to the PCB last night. I never realized how useful the screening on those pre-made boards are. Man, I was worn out from first searching the board, then the diagram then the parts list. Whew, it took me over twice as long to assemble as one with the silk screening. All part of learning I suppose. 🙂
Blessings, Terry
Hi Terry,
If you want a silk screen effect, consider the approach posted on www.pulsar.gs . It uses the toner transfer method, and then a second film is put on top of the toner. The second film is white. It works very well and is quite rugged. Using the laminator, it only take a few minutes to do.
If you do chose to go the laminator route at some time, let me know and I will pass on my experience in modifying the laminator (it was not bad).
Bill
If you want a silk screen effect, consider the approach posted on www.pulsar.gs . It uses the toner transfer method, and then a second film is put on top of the toner. The second film is white. It works very well and is quite rugged. Using the laminator, it only take a few minutes to do.
If you do chose to go the laminator route at some time, let me know and I will pass on my experience in modifying the laminator (it was not bad).
Bill
Hi Bill,
I am definately interested in the laminator. I didn't realize there was modification involved, but as long as it wouldn't ruin it for it's normal uses I would be alright with it.
One of the selling points is that it would be something the wife and kids could get use of as well, (if you know what I mean) 😀
I couldn't seem to find the post about the white film but I think I know wat you mean. I didn't think about it but I suppose even a black image would be helpful. Problem is with the leach amp, the silk screen image has been enlarged. I'm not sure how tough lit would be to reduce it back to the actual size.
You can rest assured, once I get the laminator I will seek your advice. Thanks for the offer.
Blessings, Terry
I am definately interested in the laminator. I didn't realize there was modification involved, but as long as it wouldn't ruin it for it's normal uses I would be alright with it.
One of the selling points is that it would be something the wife and kids could get use of as well, (if you know what I mean) 😀
I couldn't seem to find the post about the white film but I think I know wat you mean. I didn't think about it but I suppose even a black image would be helpful. Problem is with the leach amp, the silk screen image has been enlarged. I'm not sure how tough lit would be to reduce it back to the actual size.
You can rest assured, once I get the laminator I will seek your advice. Thanks for the offer.
Blessings, Terry
Hi Terry, I will reduce the image for you, but it's pretty low res to begin with. Though, I have to say, just having alittle pictures of the devices over the hole without device numbers wouls still save lots of time.
As for the laminator, I was thinking the same thing. The best I have come up with is "acciddently" getting my (exired) motorcycle registration wet. "That's it, I need to laminate this thing, and I'll do the car registrations while I'm at it." and my circuit boards.
-b
As for the laminator, I was thinking the same thing. The best I have come up with is "acciddently" getting my (exired) motorcycle registration wet. "That's it, I need to laminate this thing, and I'll do the car registrations while I'm at it." and my circuit boards.
-b
😉 😉 😉
We sure go to great lengths to enjoy our hobby! My wife often thinks the tools (toys) are the end not the circuits. Good to hear that I am not alone in working creative strategies to justify stuff for my hobby.
The laminator mods will leave it operational as a laminator. The mods are easy and takes under an hour when done for the first time.
Bill
We sure go to great lengths to enjoy our hobby! My wife often thinks the tools (toys) are the end not the circuits. Good to hear that I am not alone in working creative strategies to justify stuff for my hobby.
The laminator mods will leave it operational as a laminator. The mods are easy and takes under an hour when done for the first time.
Bill
😀
My wife used to shake her head at me when I would buy stuff for my hobbies. Then recently she got re-interested in cake decorating, something she is very good at, and she began buying every new gadget she could find.
Can we say leverage? 😀
Suddenly she understands why I own 20 microphones. You just never know when you are going to need that "special tool".
I've been spending like crazy on parts for this Leach amp so I'm going to let the dust settle a little before I spring for the laminator, but I will own one.
Blessings, Terry
My wife used to shake her head at me when I would buy stuff for my hobbies. Then recently she got re-interested in cake decorating, something she is very good at, and she began buying every new gadget she could find.
Can we say leverage? 😀
Suddenly she understands why I own 20 microphones. You just never know when you are going to need that "special tool".
I've been spending like crazy on parts for this Leach amp so I'm going to let the dust settle a little before I spring for the laminator, but I will own one.
Blessings, Terry
It's about a wash. You'd probably get lower ESR with 2 pairs in parallel (not series) but it may or may not be noticeable.
although I have no experience with the seller, I wonder about them. The CDE caps are not listed in CDE's current product line - they may be NOS or otherwise surplus, rather than "purchsed new from the factory" You might be able to find a date code guide and figure out how old they are to help you decide. We had a thread on that - a search may turn it up.
although I have no experience with the seller, I wonder about them. The CDE caps are not listed in CDE's current product line - they may be NOS or otherwise surplus, rather than "purchsed new from the factory" You might be able to find a date code guide and figure out how old they are to help you decide. We had a thread on that - a search may turn it up.
Terry,
Look here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=570908#post570908
One of the forum folks selling.
Prosit
Look here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=570908#post570908
One of the forum folks selling.
Prosit
I have bought caps from this source before and never had a problem. I too did a search for the ones I bought and couldn't find them from CD so maybe they are NOS. The caps I used in my P101 are from him and they work fine from what I can tell. I bought a lot of 25- 80V,15kuf so I still have 16 of them left, but 80V is not enough for this transformer, so I need to get 100v. I can buy four of the 100V,10kuf caps that I listed for $69 shipped, or those two 100V,22kuf for $51 shipped.
I've been trying to follow the logic of lower ESR with more caps but to be honest, My S860 Soundcraftsmen uses two 75V,10000uf caps and it sounds great. Maybe I'm missing something.
Blessings, Terry
I've been trying to follow the logic of lower ESR with more caps but to be honest, My S860 Soundcraftsmen uses two 75V,10000uf caps and it sounds great. Maybe I'm missing something.
Blessings, Terry
If you enlarge the picture you can clearly see the production code.
I am not familiar with the code Cornell uses, you would have to ask someone who does ( Pass for instance)
It could be week 52 in 1999, the 9952.
The Dubelier's look very nice to me, with an AB amplifier i would go for 2*10 instead of one 20 mF.
Pass made a statement about a month or so ago that the number of companies that produce caps are not big in number, the Adcom's could be made in the same factory as the Cornell's.
In any case, you would have to reformat the caps.
Load them to half of the max voltage through a small resistor and slowly unload again.
This way the electrolyte in the cap regenerates, with old caps the electrolyte is so dried out that the inside is loose from the shell.
In my view, and others, caps of ten years and even older can be used with no problems, the important thing is the reformating.
Better a cap on the shelf for a long time than one used for a long time. One can go on for 25, the other may break down within a few.
Add two 10 mF to the Soundcraftsmen and you will hear the difference, above 20 mF per channel it is questionable unless you drive really difficult loudspeakers with a stressy piece of music.
I am not familiar with the code Cornell uses, you would have to ask someone who does ( Pass for instance)
It could be week 52 in 1999, the 9952.
The Dubelier's look very nice to me, with an AB amplifier i would go for 2*10 instead of one 20 mF.
Pass made a statement about a month or so ago that the number of companies that produce caps are not big in number, the Adcom's could be made in the same factory as the Cornell's.
In any case, you would have to reformat the caps.
Load them to half of the max voltage through a small resistor and slowly unload again.
This way the electrolyte in the cap regenerates, with old caps the electrolyte is so dried out that the inside is loose from the shell.
In my view, and others, caps of ten years and even older can be used with no problems, the important thing is the reformating.
Better a cap on the shelf for a long time than one used for a long time. One can go on for 25, the other may break down within a few.
Add two 10 mF to the Soundcraftsmen and you will hear the difference, above 20 mF per channel it is questionable unless you drive really difficult loudspeakers with a stressy piece of music.
Sprague or Cornell Dubelier, same same , no ?
I love Mallory, mostly because Pass used them for his Thresholds, and they have awesome CG's.
I used a number of Sprague's in the past, mostly because they were easilly available overhere, excellent caps in my view.
(at the time i thought Philips were secondrate, turns out they are quite good too, Classé in Cnd used a lot of them)
I love Mallory, mostly because Pass used them for his Thresholds, and they have awesome CG's.
I used a number of Sprague's in the past, mostly because they were easilly available overhere, excellent caps in my view.
(at the time i thought Philips were secondrate, turns out they are quite good too, Classé in Cnd used a lot of them)
Would you mind explaining that process in a little more detail so this dummy can pull it off with out messing things up? I think I'll go ahead with the 4 10000uf caps. I should be ready to fire things up by the time they arrive.
Blessings, Terry
Hi Terry,
the caps are 100 volts, you will need a 50 volts DC powersupply.
With a 10 K resistor between the powersupply and the capacitor the capacitor will be loaded with 5 mA.
Dissipation in the resistor at 5 mA will be 0.25 watt, so a 0.5 watt resistor will do.
The tube amplifier designer i learned the trick from thought it enough to slowly load to half the peak voltage, some on the amp forum load the capacitors to a higher voltage.
Besides not needing higher power resistors if a high value resistor like a 10 k is used, it is best to load the cap really slowly to give it ample time to get back in shape.
An electrolytic capacitor consists of two sheets of metal foil, often alloy, with a chemical layer in between, the diëlectric.
The cap connections are with the two foils, the electrolytic is there to give electric separation.
For a big capacitance large foil areas are needed, so with a capacitor these two layers of foil with the electrolytic are rolled up.
Like with a car battery, the condition of the cap is determined by the electrolytic.
As the electrolytic is a chemical it is able to exchange parts, on the shelf it looses and reduces in volume.
When the cap is loaded the electrolytic can accept molecule parts again, in consequence grow in volume and regain its full electric separation capability.
To give it time loading must be done slowly, so a small charging current.
The big ones i have used take several hours to charge, unloading goes through the resistor too and takes a long time too.
After charging and recharging the caps a couple of times they should be ready for heavy audio battle again.
the caps are 100 volts, you will need a 50 volts DC powersupply.
With a 10 K resistor between the powersupply and the capacitor the capacitor will be loaded with 5 mA.
Dissipation in the resistor at 5 mA will be 0.25 watt, so a 0.5 watt resistor will do.
The tube amplifier designer i learned the trick from thought it enough to slowly load to half the peak voltage, some on the amp forum load the capacitors to a higher voltage.
Besides not needing higher power resistors if a high value resistor like a 10 k is used, it is best to load the cap really slowly to give it ample time to get back in shape.
An electrolytic capacitor consists of two sheets of metal foil, often alloy, with a chemical layer in between, the diëlectric.
The cap connections are with the two foils, the electrolytic is there to give electric separation.
For a big capacitance large foil areas are needed, so with a capacitor these two layers of foil with the electrolytic are rolled up.
Like with a car battery, the condition of the cap is determined by the electrolytic.
As the electrolytic is a chemical it is able to exchange parts, on the shelf it looses and reduces in volume.
When the cap is loaded the electrolytic can accept molecule parts again, in consequence grow in volume and regain its full electric separation capability.
To give it time loading must be done slowly, so a small charging current.
The big ones i have used take several hours to charge, unloading goes through the resistor too and takes a long time too.
After charging and recharging the caps a couple of times they should be ready for heavy audio battle again.
OK, so can I use my variac and the transformer and bridge I have for this amp and just bring it up to 50VDC and let it run for a while?
How long do I need to run it like that?
Is there something I can measure that will tell me when the caps are restored?
Can I hook them all up in Parallel and reformat them all at one time or do I just need to do pairs?
Should I just use one side of the bridge and do them one at a time?
Thanks, Terry
How long do I need to run it like that?
Is there something I can measure that will tell me when the caps are restored?
Can I hook them all up in Parallel and reformat them all at one time or do I just need to do pairs?
Should I just use one side of the bridge and do them one at a time?
Thanks, Terry
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