Hi ho!
Nice speakers, looks like a good first DIY-speaker project.
Just one question, the internal brace. How critical is the shape (since no dimensions is mentioned)? The size of the holes etc. And how tight should it fit to the back of the driver? Should I use some isolation between the driver and the brace?
I'm a first time builder, so bare with me 🙂
Nice speakers, looks like a good first DIY-speaker project.
Just one question, the internal brace. How critical is the shape (since no dimensions is mentioned)? The size of the holes etc. And how tight should it fit to the back of the driver? Should I use some isolation between the driver and the brace?
I'm a first time builder, so bare with me 🙂
CJ900RR said:
Shape is non-critical. Primary funtion is to brace the driver against 3 walls. 2nd (and equally important ids to brace the wall panels.
Should be a firm fit against the magnet but not so much as to strain it. You want to transfer as much energy from the driver as possible to the box panels spreading it out instead of it all being dissipated by the baffle.
dave
Re: Re: help mids are to high
That's why we need bipole changs. With curves. Be sure to eNable the BSC.
rkevans said:
That's why we need bipole changs. With curves. Be sure to eNable the BSC.
HC - AN8" CF
They 're almost ready. Yesterday evening i heard them for the first time. I have only a couple of hours of burn in till now. The first impression was quite disappointing. Peaky mids & highs and very week LF's. The only dampening material is a synthetic carpet underlay ~ 2 mm (dual layer of this). In order to manage a non fatique listening i connected a 8.2 Ohm resistor. Only a little difference occured. Is also a regular BSC needed or things shall be improve after fully break period. I know that AN 8CF is not the driver that HC designed for but i thought for a better result anyway...
aroS3 said:
They 're almost ready. Yesterday evening i heard them for the first time. I have only a couple of hours of burn in till now. The first impression was quite disappointing. Peaky mids & highs and very week LF's. The only dampening material is a synthetic carpet underlay ~ 2 mm (dual layer of this). In order to manage a non fatique listening i connected a 8.2 Ohm resistor. Only a little difference occured. Is also a regular BSC needed or things shall be improve after fully break period. I know that AN 8CF is not the driver that HC designed for but i thought for a better result anyway...
Attachments
i built the half changs and the only way i got them to sound pretty good is to build a bsc for them that helped alot and i coner loaded them for mor e low bass they sound pretty good now
link to my half changs
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35669902@N06/
link to my half changs
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35669902@N06/
Re: HC - AN8" CF
Not something you can count on... i'd be very surprised if you can make those work... the specs are dramatically different than the 207.
dave
aroS3 said:
Not something you can count on... i'd be very surprised if you can make those work... the specs are dramatically different than the 207.
dave
Re: Re: HC - AN8" CF
Before making any serious dampening tricks and adjustments, i had an idea to give a try to an old 7 band SONY equalizer.
-2, -3 db at 1 and 4.5Khz band was good enough to bring good balance and even show some bass.
6 hours passed away, ~ 100 more to come...
Seem very interesting game but needs a lot of patient ...
planet10 said:
Before making any serious dampening tricks and adjustments, i had an idea to give a try to an old 7 band SONY equalizer.
-2, -3 db at 1 and 4.5Khz band was good enough to bring good balance and even show some bass.
6 hours passed away, ~ 100 more to come...
Seem very interesting game but needs a lot of patient ...
Dampening
As you can see in the related photo, all sides plus bottom is covered by this carpet underlay material bought from IKEA. The material has a rubber feeling in touch. Do you think that my way (all sides plus bottom) and the kind of material itself could cause low and bass frequencies dampening or cancelation ?
I'm asking your opinions first cause it's a bit difficult to remove it if neccessary.
As you can see in the related photo, all sides plus bottom is covered by this carpet underlay material bought from IKEA. The material has a rubber feeling in touch. Do you think that my way (all sides plus bottom) and the kind of material itself could cause low and bass frequencies dampening or cancelation ?
I'm asking your opinions first cause it's a bit difficult to remove it if neccessary.
Attachments
Re: Dampening
Sigh. Why on Earth did you think that? The cabinet is not designed for the AN8; stuffing any driver into a cabinet designed for something else it is asking for it, and by the sounds of it, you've got it. The AN is completely unsuited to the load as-is, and will be the primary cause of the exaggerated HF & midband you're experiencing. If you'll forgive an anaology, it's a bit like saying 'I know this car is designed to run on diesel, but I think I'll fill the tank with petrol in the hope of better performance...'
That's heavily over-damped compared to spec., which calls for alternate walls (i.e. top, back, & one side-wall), which will kill the LF even further, and wool felt. I try to design for minimum damping. FWIW, rip it all off the bottom, one side & the front. That will help a bit. You'll also need some hefty Eq to take down the AN's inherently rising response over ~1KHz. In passive terms, that will mean a shelving filter, on the order of a 3mH inductor paralleled with an 11 ohm resistor. Active would be better if possible of course. Either way, sensitivity will be dramatically reduced, but that's the price you pay for having to force a mismatched driver / cabinet combination. The same applies to the FE206E, albeit to a rather lesser extent. You might get away with a couple of ohms less if you've got a high output impedance amplifier.
Just to reitterate: I designed the cabinet for the FE207E, with the possibility of a Pioneer B20 as an alternative cheap option for casual listening, as is noted on the plans. If you try something else & it doesn't work, don't blame muggins here.
aroS3 said:
Sigh. Why on Earth did you think that? The cabinet is not designed for the AN8; stuffing any driver into a cabinet designed for something else it is asking for it, and by the sounds of it, you've got it. The AN is completely unsuited to the load as-is, and will be the primary cause of the exaggerated HF & midband you're experiencing. If you'll forgive an anaology, it's a bit like saying 'I know this car is designed to run on diesel, but I think I'll fill the tank with petrol in the hope of better performance...'
aroS3 said:
That's heavily over-damped compared to spec., which calls for alternate walls (i.e. top, back, & one side-wall), which will kill the LF even further, and wool felt. I try to design for minimum damping. FWIW, rip it all off the bottom, one side & the front. That will help a bit. You'll also need some hefty Eq to take down the AN's inherently rising response over ~1KHz. In passive terms, that will mean a shelving filter, on the order of a 3mH inductor paralleled with an 11 ohm resistor. Active would be better if possible of course. Either way, sensitivity will be dramatically reduced, but that's the price you pay for having to force a mismatched driver / cabinet combination. The same applies to the FE206E, albeit to a rather lesser extent. You might get away with a couple of ohms less if you've got a high output impedance amplifier.
Just to reitterate: I designed the cabinet for the FE207E, with the possibility of a Pioneer B20 as an alternative cheap option for casual listening, as is noted on the plans. If you try something else & it doesn't work, don't blame muggins here.
Scott, how i could blame anyone here.....
Specially you, Dave and many others that tolerate the behaviour of any novice as i am with my ignorance...
Many thanks for all your support.
Kind regards,
George
Specially you, Dave and many others that tolerate the behaviour of any novice as i am with my ignorance...
Many thanks for all your support.
Kind regards,
George
We're here to help when / where we can. 🙂 Try getting some of the damping out, as I say, & you should get a small improvement. If you can get the circuit or active Eq sorted for a big cut over 1KHz, you should find things start to become much more to your liking.
Let us know how you get on
Best
Scott
Let us know how you get on
Best
Scott
hi everyone, (my first post) i'm planing on building the HC's during the summer. i have never built speakers before but my carpentry skills are quite good.
i plan on using the fe207e
now because i have never built let alone designed speakers, i have a few 'stupid' questions
1. what would happen to the sound of the HC's if they were to be turned around and the 207's placed on the 'back' which would now be the front and the mouth of the 'horn' to face a wall?
2. would the addition of a 'supra baffle' be of any use to the design of the HC's?
i can here you all laugh... but as i said i'm a complete nube... 🙄
now my kids are older and stopped wrecking my system, my plan over the next year is to build my own diy system to grow old with...
i have had a few speakers over the years including a pair of celestion dittons, AR 90's (i almost cried when theses died) and Kef codas and but to name a few...
i plan on using the fe207e
now because i have never built let alone designed speakers, i have a few 'stupid' questions
1. what would happen to the sound of the HC's if they were to be turned around and the 207's placed on the 'back' which would now be the front and the mouth of the 'horn' to face a wall?
2. would the addition of a 'supra baffle' be of any use to the design of the HC's?
i can here you all laugh... but as i said i'm a complete nube... 🙄
now my kids are older and stopped wrecking my system, my plan over the next year is to build my own diy system to grow old with...
i have had a few speakers over the years including a pair of celestion dittons, AR 90's (i almost cried when theses died) and Kef codas and but to name a few...
Bibio said:
Chris & i have talked about it, and i've suggested it in a few emails, but i haven't seen it done yet.
On any wide baffle speaker, the addition of a vestigual supreBaffle has positive effects on wave launch and edge diffraction
as illustrated in these
dave