gychang said:Pioneer BOFU as the sole fullranger is not good, add the tweeter with 2u cap.
it made a world of difference when I used this.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-025
gychang
Forgot to mention that I was already running this combo.
The highs are decent. This speaker just can't do vocals. Adam, I'll have to borrow some of the damar and pick up some foam. It's not like I'm going to be out out large sums of cash by trying it out.
d to the g said:The highs are decent. This speaker just can't do vocals. Adam, I'll have to borrow some of the damar and pick up some foam. It's not like I'm going to be out out large sums of cash by trying it out.
I'd recommend damar on the whizzer, puzzlekoat on the cone.
dave
planet10 said:
I'd recommend damar on the whizzer, puzzlekoat on the cone.
dave
i've been up and down reading this. should i try the trifoil on the whizzer? it seems the trifoil is the popular damar trick.
i couldn't find any pattern for the puzzlecoat. am i right in thinking 2 coats, 2nd thinner than the first?
d to the g said:
i've been up and down reading this. should i try the trifoil on the whizzer? it seems the trifoil is the popular damar trick.
i couldn't find any pattern for the puzzlecoat. am i right in thinking 2 coats, 2nd thinner than the first?
Trifoil is a pattern specific to dealing with a resonance in the FE126/127 cone... using it anywhere else is a crap-shoot.
There is no pattern for the puzzlekoat... 2 thin layers (of thinned PK) painted over the entire cone.
dave
Hi!
I have a pair of FE206E and had plans for the Solo206. Then I found this thread...
Since this is my first DIY speaker project, this straight angle speaker looks easier to assemble.
I have bought some 21mm premium grade baltic birch (2x 2440x1220) - and here is the problem: 21mm.
The drawings for HC is using 18mm - can I still use the original drawings? Or should I keep the internal volume and add 3mm in all directions?
Best regards
Morten
I have a pair of FE206E and had plans for the Solo206. Then I found this thread...
Since this is my first DIY speaker project, this straight angle speaker looks easier to assemble.
I have bought some 21mm premium grade baltic birch (2x 2440x1220) - and here is the problem: 21mm.
The drawings for HC is using 18mm - can I still use the original drawings? Or should I keep the internal volume and add 3mm in all directions?
Best regards
Morten
a few questions re: half chang
Hi, I'm new here and would like to build the half changs. I am looking at the plans from (http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/Half-Chang-map-170608.pdf) and can't see any measurements for the center of the hole in which the driver sits. How far from the top edge is the center of the hole?
Also, is lack of midrange (as posted above) a common issue when using the Pioneer + Tweet instead of the Fostex alone?
Is the tweeter required/recommended with the fostex driver?
and lastly, if using the tweeter, I have seen some designs with the tweeter centered above the FR and others where it is offset to one side. Is this of any consequence?
Thanks
-Sadim
Hi, I'm new here and would like to build the half changs. I am looking at the plans from (http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/Half-Chang-map-170608.pdf) and can't see any measurements for the center of the hole in which the driver sits. How far from the top edge is the center of the hole?
Also, is lack of midrange (as posted above) a common issue when using the Pioneer + Tweet instead of the Fostex alone?
Is the tweeter required/recommended with the fostex driver?
and lastly, if using the tweeter, I have seen some designs with the tweeter centered above the FR and others where it is offset to one side. Is this of any consequence?
Thanks
-Sadim
nevermind my first question
I see the hole placement now. I was looking for it with the other box dimensions. Still curious as to my other questions though.
-Sadim
I see the hole placement now. I was looking for it with the other box dimensions. Still curious as to my other questions though.
-Sadim
Re: a few questions re: half chang
Actually deigned for 3/4" material (19mm) -- i'll have to fix the note.
In the changs it is pretty easy to adjust for material thinkness... keep the internal box dimensions the same, the slot poer length the same,,, you will wnd up with a 2mm deeper horn load on the port, but that is inconsequential.
dave
mteinum said:I have bought some 21mm premium grade baltic birch (2x 2440x1220) - and here is the problem: 21mm.
Actually deigned for 3/4" material (19mm) -- i'll have to fix the note.
In the changs it is pretty easy to adjust for material thinkness... keep the internal box dimensions the same, the slot poer length the same,,, you will wnd up with a 2mm deeper horn load on the port, but that is inconsequential.
dave
Re: a few questions re: half chang
B20 will not have the mids of a Fostex. But it is much less expensive and -- eith the helper tweeter) still a very musical speaker.
I've not heard an FE207 without a tweeter -- it is most often recommended but i can't conform that from actual experience.
FE206 probably doesn't (but will likely need some series R.
I like to offset the tweeter, Gives more placement options (tweeter inside or tweeter outside), With my B20s i plan on mounting tweeter co-axially.
dave
sadim1223 said:Also, is lack of midrange (as posted above) a common issue when using the Pioneer + Tweet instead of the Fostex alone?
Is the tweeter required/recommended with the fostex driver?
and lastly, if using the tweeter, I have seen some designs with the tweeter centered above the FR and others where it is offset to one side. Is this of any consequence?
B20 will not have the mids of a Fostex. But it is much less expensive and -- eith the helper tweeter) still a very musical speaker.
I've not heard an FE207 without a tweeter -- it is most often recommended but i can't conform that from actual experience.
FE206 probably doesn't (but will likely need some series R.
I like to offset the tweeter, Gives more placement options (tweeter inside or tweeter outside), With my B20s i plan on mounting tweeter co-axially.
dave
Re: Re: a few questions re: half chang
I retract that... somehow a weird dimension got in for the walls and i need to do quite a bit of work to fix the drawing. Walls are drawn at 18.3mm (23/32") -- and they vary a bit from there.
One could safely build them as drawn with 18 or 19mm (3/4") material, the adjustments for 21mm stand.
dave
planet10 said:Actually deigned for 3/4" material (19mm) -- i'll have to fix the note.
I retract that... somehow a weird dimension got in for the walls and i need to do quite a bit of work to fix the drawing. Walls are drawn at 18.3mm (23/32") -- and they vary a bit from there.
One could safely build them as drawn with 18 or 19mm (3/4") material, the adjustments for 21mm stand.
dave
Re: Re: a few questions re: half chang
Are the screw locations the same for the two drivers? Could I switch in the Fostex later with minimal fiddling?
Also, is there a reason that the hemp driver listed on the plans is used so rarely on the forums?
Thanks for the responses.
-Sadim
planet10 said:
B20 will not have the mids of a Fostex. But it is much less expensive and -- eith the helper tweeter) still a very musical speaker.
Are the screw locations the same for the two drivers? Could I switch in the Fostex later with minimal fiddling?
Also, is there a reason that the hemp driver listed on the plans is used so rarely on the forums?
Thanks for the responses.
-Sadim
Re: Re: Re: a few questions re: half chang
Because the driver is fairly rare and the old owner (it now has new owners we hope to see some changes) had a trail of unanswered questions & accusations following him. Good drivers. Unknown or potentionally questionable business ethics. And certainly not good customer support -- Note that the new owners recently sent me replacement drivers for a pair of defective that i returned to the old owner in June 2007 (and they were probably were under no legal obligation to do so, having just aquired the assets)
dave
sadim1223 said:Also, is there a reason that the hemp driver listed on the plans is used so rarely on the forums?
Because the driver is fairly rare and the old owner (it now has new owners we hope to see some changes) had a trail of unanswered questions & accusations following him. Good drivers. Unknown or potentionally questionable business ethics. And certainly not good customer support -- Note that the new owners recently sent me replacement drivers for a pair of defective that i returned to the old owner in June 2007 (and they were probably were under no legal obligation to do so, having just aquired the assets)
dave
Re: Re: Re: a few questions re: half chang
It didn't appear that way to me.
sadim1223 said:
Are the screw locations the same for the two drivers? Could I switch in the Fostex later with minimal fiddling?
It didn't appear that way to me.
Re: Re: Re: a few questions re: half chang
I originally built the Half Chang with the FE206 and later used the B20 with a tweeter. The B20 cut out is smaller than the FE206's. If you switched to the FE206 you would have to enlarge the opening.
When I changed to the B20, I had to use a baffle plate with a smaller opening.
sadim1223 said:
Are the screw locations the same for the two drivers? Could I switch in the Fostex later with minimal fiddling?
I originally built the Half Chang with the FE206 and later used the B20 with a tweeter. The B20 cut out is smaller than the FE206's. If you switched to the FE206 you would have to enlarge the opening.
When I changed to the B20, I had to use a baffle plate with a smaller opening.
Hello Scottmoose
knightsound has posted a question about building a Half Chang cabinet for the Audio Nirvana 10" and aroS3 seems to have built one recently with the Audio Nirvana 8":
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1685061#post1685061
The AN 10" is bigger than the FE206, so I ask you, how are the dimensions of the Half Chang for this driver?
@aroS3
How does the Half Chang AN8" sound like?
Greetings from Switzerland
sonobox
knightsound has posted a question about building a Half Chang cabinet for the Audio Nirvana 10" and aroS3 seems to have built one recently with the Audio Nirvana 8":
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1685061#post1685061
The AN 10" is bigger than the FE206, so I ask you, how are the dimensions of the Half Chang for this driver?
@aroS3
How does the Half Chang AN8" sound like?
Greetings from Switzerland
sonobox
Hi, I 'll be in a position to know in a week - 10 days from now. I'm in the paint - vernish final round this right moment.sonobox said:Hello Scottmoose
knightsound has posted a question about building a Half Chang cabinet for the Audio Nirvana 10" and aroS3 seems to have built one recently with the Audio Nirvana 8":
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1685061#post1685061
The AN 10" is bigger than the FE206, so I ask you, how are the dimensions of the Half Chang for this driver?
@aroS3
How does the Half Chang AN8" sound like?
Greetings from Switzerland
sonobox
Regards,
George
HC with Pioneer B20
Hi all...I too am planning to build the HC using the Pioneer B20. My initial impulse was not to include a tweeter but the consensus of the thread indicates that to be an error. So my question, and please pardon my ignorance, is how exactly do I connect each to each while including a suitable cap in the circuit - and I am a visual learner, so a simple drawing and/or picture would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jorge
Hi all...I too am planning to build the HC using the Pioneer B20. My initial impulse was not to include a tweeter but the consensus of the thread indicates that to be an error. So my question, and please pardon my ignorance, is how exactly do I connect each to each while including a suitable cap in the circuit - and I am a visual learner, so a simple drawing and/or picture would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jorge
Re: HC with Pioneer B20
look at attached, hope this helps.
gychang
jorge1 said:Hi all...I too am planning to build the HC using the Pioneer B20. My initial impulse was not to include a tweeter but the consensus of the thread indicates that to be an error. So my question, and please pardon my ignorance, is how exactly do I connect each to each while including a suitable cap in the circuit - and I am a visual learner, so a simple drawing and/or picture would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jorge
look at attached, hope this helps.
gychang
Attachments
Hello Jorge
Only one capacitor at 2 uF instead of two at 1 uF will work also, of corse. If you take one at 2.2 uF, the tweeter starts at 13 kHz instead of 14.5 kHz (there's no problem with that). The cheapest solution is this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-324
But you'd better take these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-414
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-214
And if you think you have golden ears, it schould be:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-724
sonobox
Only one capacitor at 2 uF instead of two at 1 uF will work also, of corse. If you take one at 2.2 uF, the tweeter starts at 13 kHz instead of 14.5 kHz (there's no problem with that). The cheapest solution is this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-324
But you'd better take these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-414
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-214
And if you think you have golden ears, it schould be:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-724
sonobox
many thanks gychang and christian...a pix is worth a thousand words so it is said - tis so in my case, and chris, thanks for the links - not possessed of golden ears nevertheless i'll "splurge" on the daytons...again, thank you both for your help and thanks to all on the thread for making this stuff comprehensible, and fun! will post pix when the project is completed...be well,
jorge
jorge
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