OS:
IF you THINK I stole, plagiarized, borrowed, absconded or otherwise used some of your schematics, ideas thoughts or patented inventions, to put up that schematic diagram.....
You are absolutely correct... THANKS.... I had no choice, anything else on this forum in the same vain was copied from some western Asian company and falling off the cliff.
IF you THINK I stole, plagiarized, borrowed, absconded or otherwise used some of your schematics, ideas thoughts or patented inventions, to put up that schematic diagram.....
You are absolutely correct... THANKS.... I had no choice, anything else on this forum in the same vain was copied from some western Asian company and falling off the cliff.
I'm HONORED... I am the one who said it may be a "goldmund killer" ... I stole it off of Nico/ampslab anyways. It just works and it works well. Nothing wrong with asian designs .. I am truly impressed with pioneer and luxman's contributions. 🙂
OS
I would like to know what Drivers and What Outputs we are going to use PLEASE.
We can put it to a VOTE....
Hint: The Helvetic Republic is in WESTERN Asia...
We can put it to a VOTE....
Hint: The Helvetic Republic is in WESTERN Asia...
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Yes I also prefer a1930/c5171 over a1837/c4793. I dont have experience with 857/957.
Sorry, I sound like a stuck record, but I would like to again impress upon you that to get a better swing from the output, then the pre-output stage should run at 10 - 15V higher. If we choose 80V for the output stage and 90V for the driver stage, then I would choose the ZTX that jacco suggests, I trust when he says sexy he means it, and also add one pair of MOSFETs, and the amp will actually live up to specification.
Else we drop the output to 65V and run the input section on 80V, then I would settle for a1837/c4793, but I would still like to run four pairs of output devices. Furthermore I concur with Kean that we use source resistors. I have used 1058/162 in all of my designs (both in commercial and personal applications) and I can assure you that the spread is much higher than you suspect.
That is my two pennies worth.
Else we drop the output to 65V and run the input section on 80V, then I would settle for a1837/c4793, but I would still like to run four pairs of output devices. Furthermore I concur with Kean that we use source resistors. I have used 1058/162 in all of my designs (both in commercial and personal applications) and I can assure you that the spread is much higher than you suspect.
That is my two pennies worth.
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Also the test that I performed with source resistances, a few posts earlier, as crude as it was indicated a better chance of survival into a "short" circuit with only fuse protection.
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i agree with all of nico's points, especially about the source resistors for the hitachi/renesas mosfets. personal experience, not commercial.
mlloyd1
mlloyd1
Hmm, it is going to require board space for heatsinking, maybe stick to the old faithfulls so we can attach a To220 heat sink or mount them on the main heatsink. They will need to dissipate at least 3 - 4 watts if you want to run them at 80V and 50 mA and that is about their maximum.
Thanks for pointing this out Thanh
Thanks for pointing this out Thanh
four square inches of coper or more is going to steal a lot of real estate if we go SMD. Besides 3 watt in still air might just desolder them of the board - I would prefer not to run the risk.
Hi Krisf, I am still not convinced 16deg/watt @3 watt will be about 73 degree centigrade at an ambient of 25 degree centigrade. In summer here can get 40 degrees. I am still not comfortable. Show me something better - although great for getting rid of heat I hate fans. Easpecially when they stop.
In a cellular phone you use 3 - 5 watt and not too long ago the iPhone turned into a cooking utensil😱
One can mount that case vertical and solder a copper heat sink to it. If there is a will there is a way, but I guess that our fellow DIY members may also prefer sticking with what we are used to.
Nico,
Sorry I missed your post of dispensing with the divers. I think we should delete them and use a suitable TO-126 in the VAS. I think you have been spot on regarding the implementation of the circuit. The key is to make as simple as possible to achieve the design goal.
Regards,
Jam
Sorry I missed your post of dispensing with the divers. I think we should delete them and use a suitable TO-126 in the VAS. I think you have been spot on regarding the implementation of the circuit. The key is to make as simple as possible to achieve the design goal.
Regards,
Jam
Now you are talking, but one also tries to please the masses. You are right a driver is not necessary and the MJE340/350 has performed amicably in the past.
Probably not a great transistor but well behaved and up to the task. If you go that way then yes I like it.
Keep in mind ELD is a working amp not just a simulation and most of its quarks have been addressed. I do not like to push into only my own direction and then find myself alone doing my own thing. If something better comes about, I am as interested as the next guy.
Probably not a great transistor but well behaved and up to the task. If you go that way then yes I like it.
Keep in mind ELD is a working amp not just a simulation and most of its quarks have been addressed. I do not like to push into only my own direction and then find myself alone doing my own thing. If something better comes about, I am as interested as the next guy.