I guess we're not supposed to enjoy our system for an evening or sleep. This thread has gone crazy.
In my cannon I used a 9' 16" diameter sonotube on one side and a 3' 16" sonotube on the short side, between them I have 2 18" woofers face to face.
It was very easy to build the cannon. Sense This was a bumb luck experiment I used the cheapest 18"s
I could find. I will plot the responce on Monday but from what I hear from this cannon the walls of Jerico would crumble if I used better woofers and a Beringer EP2500.
In my cannon I used a 9' 16" diameter sonotube on one side and a 3' 16" sonotube on the short side, between them I have 2 18" woofers face to face.
It was very easy to build the cannon. Sense This was a bumb luck experiment I used the cheapest 18"s
I could find. I will plot the responce on Monday but from what I hear from this cannon the walls of Jerico would crumble if I used better woofers and a Beringer EP2500.
I like the idea of bass enclosures that also serve as furniture.
Bed foundation, or coffee table, maybe more?
Bed foundation, or coffee table, maybe more?
i totally agree zenmasterbrian, I've yet to find any large subwoofer that has a nice curve in a small enclosure. Make it large! a nice stool perhaps. I remember our crazy physics teacher bringing into class this large subwoofer and signal generator and slowly decreasing the tone. He asked us all to put our hands up when we couldn't hear the tone anymore, of course we all lied to make himself think his hearing was bad in his old age, but lower than about 30 hz we couldn't hear.
What's the use of pipe organs that hit 8 hz if all that's going to do is break your new glass patio door you've had installed? 🙂
I went to the car road show event at earls court when i when i was about 15 and they had this subwoofer that was about 15ft tall and a good 5ft wide, I never actually heard it playing, but my liver felt it.
I don't really understand this obsession with large subwoofers, a good quality 10"+ driver and a well calculated linkwitz correction network, plus obviously a nice, powerful amp does the job with ease.
Alex
What's the use of pipe organs that hit 8 hz if all that's going to do is break your new glass patio door you've had installed? 🙂
I went to the car road show event at earls court when i when i was about 15 and they had this subwoofer that was about 15ft tall and a good 5ft wide, I never actually heard it playing, but my liver felt it.
I don't really understand this obsession with large subwoofers, a good quality 10"+ driver and a well calculated linkwitz correction network, plus obviously a nice, powerful amp does the job with ease.
Alex
Lol, we all have different tastes I guess. All frequencies are audible, the lower ones just need to be played louder because our sensitivity to them is less. There is a lot to be said for having solid capability to extremely low frequencies - a 10" driver just can't come close.hi,
You must have super hero ears then, below 20hz is NOT audible by any human. Sure you can increase the -3db point and create an amplifier powerful enough, but you won't hear it, you'll just annoy your neighbours.
Alex
You must have super hero ears then, below 20hz is NOT audible by any human. Sure you can increase the -3db point and create an amplifier powerful enough, but you won't hear it, you'll just annoy your neighbours.
Alex
More than a few people can hear down into the teens. 20Hz is just the textbook figure which is probably a reasonable approximation for large group of people with average hearing. Same goes for 20kHz at the top end. As you age you generally lose top end but quite a few young people can hear 20kHz or a little higher. Too far outside of 20-20kHz though and the efficiency of our auditory system falls away to the point that it's inaudible regardless of SPL.
Good thing too since we wouldn't get much peace if we could hear ULF / ELF or VHF / UHF.
Good thing too since we wouldn't get much peace if we could hear ULF / ELF or VHF / UHF.
elaar said:
Rubbish
State your source.
I do sweeps in me bedroom with my dual 20" cannons starting at 0hz.
At approx 10hz the walls and windows begin to vibrate -- as though heavy equipment or tanks are going by outside.
It is very, very deep -- infrasonic.
The sound is increasingly clearly audible from that point through the teens (and beyond).
Is it the sound of the house structure coupling with the drivers?
Is it the drivers?
Who cares.
Movie sound effects -- like in WOTW -- are AWESOME.
elaar said:
I totally disagree. 😀
If you're using a 10" driver then I seriously doubt you'll be able to play sub 25Hz with enough spl to make it noticable. Try a pair of 15's and see if you change your mind.
Cheers,
Rob.
The larger the driver, the harder it becomes to get everything right, particularly the enclosure (and the internals of the own driver, but the manufacturer should have already taken care about that ).
That's one of the reasons why there is so much people sticking to small drivers and arguing that bigger drivers (up to 18") don't sound right. Smaller drivers are just easier to use, though.
That's one of the reasons why there is so much people sticking to small drivers and arguing that bigger drivers (up to 18") don't sound right. Smaller drivers are just easier to use, though.
elaar said:
So basically you're saying that a low x-max 10" driver is the best choice for a subwoofer ? 😉
Rob.
nope, i'm saying it's more than adequate for 99% of tasks, of course larger subwoofers are nearly always going to create more spl and lower frequencies more efficiently, but then only the insane would want a 10cu ft enclosure in their living room 🙂
I'd have thought a single sealed 10" with a LT would kick out some serious distortion, 99% of the time.
Of course if you're only listening at background levels then it should be ok. Watching dvd's at reference would probably blow the poor thing up though
As would some electronic music - Aphex Twin used to give my 4 scanspeak 10" drivers (2 per side sealed) grief when played at decent volumes.
10 cu ft seems quite reasonable to me. My last sealed system had 3 x 5' tall enclosures, and these at least hit the reference levels without bottoming.
Cheers,
Rob.
Of course if you're only listening at background levels then it should be ok. Watching dvd's at reference would probably blow the poor thing up though
As would some electronic music - Aphex Twin used to give my 4 scanspeak 10" drivers (2 per side sealed) grief when played at decent volumes.10 cu ft seems quite reasonable to me. My last sealed system had 3 x 5' tall enclosures, and these at least hit the reference levels without bottoming.
Cheers,
Rob.
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Hi,
Having just bought a 12cubft enclosure with twin 18inch drivers, then maybe my neighbours could judge my sanity.
I hope I am not, but maybe I can't recognise it.
Having just bought a 12cubft enclosure with twin 18inch drivers, then maybe my neighbours could judge my sanity.
elaar, the subs you are used to or are describing just aren't in the same league as what we are discussing - I'm talking in terms of extension, output, and distortion. A typical sealed 10" driver using a LT will have less extension, less output, and LOTS more distortion than say a typical large ported 18". Yes, it may be fine for you, but some want more.
10 cubic feet? That's nothing. Try 24 cubic feet.
10 cubic feet? That's nothing. Try 24 cubic feet.
The advent of low distortion motor technologies allow for larger excursions without Bl nonlinearities. Doppler and intermodulation distortions won't really come into effect until you get to the 40mm+ range. In addition, it is the smaller drivers that will need more excursion, NOT the larger drivers, as the larger cone surface area displaces more area per distance moved.
I hope that we all realise that to identify the appropriate drivers fot this application, we have to go beyond our tiny community of Home DIY subwoofers. That's why I sugggested looking to Scientific researchers that have more use for these type of drivers... re: Elephant Comminucations. Others may have suggestions for non music/HT applications for these type of drivers.
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