10x2,2 inches🙂 But they could be made smaller, there is plenty of space on those boards😉 If someone could optimize that board, I am sure it would be great! It could be used for RIAA's and so on! But what, this is the "CHIP" department, so I am not sure if there is enough interest in a PSU like that! Nonetheless, it is a good thing with a quiete supply🙂 I know Pavel will claim, its not necessary, but what the heck😀 😀
Steen😎
steenoe said:
Yupp, 317/337 as in this don't know much about PSUs so i'll hope it will work. 🙂
And yeah i did put in two SMD cmoys just to fill out the space
http://www.ettnet.se/~tobias/diy/cmoy/cmoy_smd_top.jpg
http://www.ettnet.se/~tobias/diy/cmoy/cmoy_smd_back.jpg
No inputcaps on the board but whataheck i'll just solder some nice caps directly to the pot. 🙂
Wow, this thread rock's😀 😀 Ok let me see,
I am sure they will work fine.
BTW, its Steenoe, not steeno😀
I missed that fact! Looks pretty good to me!
I am sure they will work fine.
Those were my first boards, the process is quite easy, thanks to the originator of this magnificent thread, Gcollier! Just take a look, far back, and George did give a description on how to etch your own boards🙂 If you have trouble getting the CCS let me know😉
BTW, its Steenoe, not steeno😀
Russ White said:I would say (with a good PS) this pre will compare quite favorably to just about anything.
It is very good, but the AD815 is better.😉
Hehe 😉
After finishing this thing both the TPA6120A2 and AD815 surely will be tested.
Have read somewere that the TPA needs a buffer infront but if i want to compare the OPA/BUF combination with the TPA i rather would like to try it without a buffer, have someone tried the TPA?
Edit: I thik Russ is posting too fast 😉 wasn't you Russ that called me wrong too? 😀
After finishing this thing both the TPA6120A2 and AD815 surely will be tested.
Have read somewere that the TPA needs a buffer infront but if i want to compare the OPA/BUF combination with the TPA i rather would like to try it without a buffer, have someone tried the TPA?
Edit: I thik Russ is posting too fast 😉 wasn't you Russ that called me wrong too? 😀
Here it is Tobias🙂 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=649315#post649315 This is the final layout!!
The thread where this PSU was dicussed is here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=33191&highlight=
But you dont get the final layout there😉
I have still to hear an Opamp, that equals mr. Pass's BosoZ😱
Steen.😎
tobias_svensk said:
I did.
Without input buffer.
It sounds too "smooth" for my taste.
I like it more real, accurate, and the TPA doesn't provide that.
Some may like it, though.
I think the bleeder resistor of 330ohm's is a bit low! I would prefer it to be something like 2K's instead, Maybe I am wrong for some reason?? Alcaid, please tune in🙂
Steen.
I do not think so. If you want something better, you really have to hit up the Pass department on this nice forum🙂
Steen.
steenoe said:
Just a couple of quick comments. If you follow my PCB etching process. I did a test with a bunch of different papers over the weekend. I found two that worked really good. The Epson Glossy Photo Paper was by a long shot the best. It leaves a really thick resist layer and if you used enough heat and pressure peels off without the slighest bit of trouble. The other one that worked good was Weyerhaeuser First Choice Premium Satin Coated Inkjet Paper. This stuff printed really black and dissolved in seconds whrn I put it in water, leaveing a nice resist layer with the "Satin" coating attached. As a plus this is more transparent than the photo paper and makes lining up for two sided boards easier...and speaking of double sided boards...what about SMD on one side through hole on the other. 😀
And yes...we really need a good PSU to go with these little beauties!
steenoe, i know. Just look at my homepage and you'll find a BoSoZ 😉 not finished though... 
But it's fun to play around with theese things too and the next step would be to compare the opa/buf with something else 🙂
But it's fun to play around with theese things too and the next step would be to compare the opa/buf with something else 🙂
Yep, that was what I thought😀
I did the boards with Glossy OCE paper, because I had some of that🙂 I found that it was quite easy to pull it off the boards right away, when it was still hot! I just had to rinse of residuals under the hot tap water🙂 Worked like a charm🙂 Thanks again George🙂
Steen😎
Tobias, we crossposted, thats the rocking thread again😀 Take a look at my BosoZ with that Pearl RIAA, I have to say, not much really compares😀
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44878&highlight=
Have to admit that this PRE sounds great!😉
I like to play around too, thats why I am here.
Steen.😎
Nice build steenoe
Ok, I have had problems finding the 10uF caps for the BoSoZ lineboard can i ask you wich ones you have?
I can find some 4.7uF that fits so i'll go with theese if i don't find 10uF ones.
Ok, I have had problems finding the 10uF caps for the BoSoZ lineboard can i ask you wich ones you have?
I can find some 4.7uF that fits so i'll go with theese if i don't find 10uF ones.
I totally agree🙂
Alcaids is a nice bet😉 Just took a look at your homepage, the BosoZ, you would better have to finish that one😀 😀 Your searching for a Preamp would be over😀 😀 Nice pic's, but what is that Lizzard for a creature??
Steen.🙂
Heh that's my Bearded Dragon (skäggagam in swedish)
Mm a superduper, don't know if i'm blind but wheres the schematics for Alcaids? 😀
Mm a superduper, don't know if i'm blind but wheres the schematics for Alcaids? 😀
Crossposted again😀 😀
I did use the 10uF panasonics for mine! I also did build two other BosoZ's with only 4,7uF filmcaps! I would be really hard pressed to tell the difference!! Meaning, I could hear no difference😉 The 4,7uF I used were Phillips MKT's. Let me know if you need any🙂
Steen😎
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