For the $ they're hard to beat
Yep, Conrad # MF35-151.5, from a group buy I orchestrated last year. Cost us about ~$90 / pair including shipping once here in the states.
Very nice units to work with, professional people to deal with. 🙂
Ron
Which heatsinks did you use, Conrad ?
Yep, Conrad # MF35-151.5, from a group buy I orchestrated last year. Cost us about ~$90 / pair including shipping once here in the states.
Very nice units to work with, professional people to deal with. 🙂
Ron
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Logo
Ron,
I am thoroughly impressed. That is very inventive.
Steve
OOOOh, AAAAh, shiny thing LOL
That Logo is one of the things that sets mine apart from the other nice looking builds others have done here on DiyAudio.
I made the logo similar to the one Papa uses but side lit it with LEDs.
I used Photo-shop to produce the logo and size it, reversed it (backward) printed it out, then layed it over a sheet of Plexiglas. (Perspex for our friends across the pond) Used a Dremel engraving tool that makes lots of small hammer marks and outlined the logo then filled it in. I cut 4 notches in the end (side) and installed 4 Flat faced LEDs. Then I covered the back (engraved side) with a piece of black ABS plastic so it looks black when the lights are off. Took the power right off of Cvillers boards, series resistor of course.
Thanks for all the nice comments.
Ron
Ron,
I am thoroughly impressed. That is very inventive.
Steve
Sure looks that way. Did any resistors show damage or loose their values?
P.S. Dusta; I've never heard how good the Thors can sound until now...simply astounding
Ron
P.S. Dusta; I've never heard how good the Thors can sound until now...simply astounding
Ron

ron-great to hear! at least it will all be worth it in the end
i was serious.. can you make me one? hehe
-joe
Thanks for the compliment.............but this is DiyAudio.
Come to think of it, I bought the boards from Cviller! So much for Diy !
Just think of how much you'll learn when building your case. Wear safety glasses.

Ron
Question: would this happen if one of the thermistor legs were to have shorted out on the middle leg of the main transistor? (it was close and it made an arcing sound)
I can repair it, but i don't want it to happen again
It looks like the thermistor leg must have touched the source pin of the mosfet (the one on the left in your picture.).
F5 question
I am finally getting around to building the F5 boards. can I bridge 2 units for more power,if so how? also tech diy kits do not list R7 and maybe more on there kit list has anybody used them is that a mistake.thanks in advance
I am finally getting around to building the F5 boards. can I bridge 2 units for more power,if so how? also tech diy kits do not list R7 and maybe more on there kit list has anybody used them is that a mistake.thanks in advance
The tech diy kit uses one 50ohm instead of two 100 in parallel - thats why you don't see a R7 on the list.
Yes you can bridge them, but perhaps it is best to build them first and then bridge them afterwards. You'll need balanced inputs to get more power.
Yes you can bridge them, but perhaps it is best to build them first and then bridge them afterwards. You'll need balanced inputs to get more power.
cviller, can you point me to a part # that will work on your diode pcb's for the heatsinks?
Need to put these black beasties to work.
Need to put these black beasties to work.
You can get the right heatsink at mouser. Here is the illusive rectifier thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/142565-gb-rectifier-boards.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/142565-gb-rectifier-boards.html
Tea-Bag,
You'll find that those boards make for a Dead quiet power supply! Use the snubber option and Ultra fast diodes you'll virtually eliminate any "ringing".
Make sure to use some type of mounting device (bolt or clip) to secure the diode to the Heat sink or you'll hear about it from Christian!!!😛
I'm glad I did. 😀
Beautiful boards!
You'll find that those boards make for a Dead quiet power supply! Use the snubber option and Ultra fast diodes you'll virtually eliminate any "ringing".
Make sure to use some type of mounting device (bolt or clip) to secure the diode to the Heat sink or you'll hear about it from Christian!!!😛
I'm glad I did. 😀
Beautiful boards!
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Hi, I am very very new to DIY AUDIO, could you please explane how I can purchase two amp PCBs and two Power Supply PCBs
Regards
Regards
Christian , I need to order rectifier boards and plan to use the snubber option , do you list the values for the snubber.
Last time I did some reading about it, 100 ohm and 22-100nf appeared to be what most people were using. But if you want to find the best value, you need to measure with a scope or follow the guidelines specific to your diodes.
I have collected a few hints in this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/142565-gb-rectifier-boards.html
I have collected a few hints in this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/142565-gb-rectifier-boards.html
Hi, I am very very new to DIY AUDIO, could you please explane how I can purchase two amp PCBs and two Power Supply PCBs
Regards
Hi esprit, you can order from me at my order site: GB order page for cviller you might also want to check out my blog (in my signature), where I'm trying to collect information as a guide to f5 builders.
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