Somewhere someone just posted on those speakers... maybe the vintage drivers, new life thread?
dave
dave
Thanks, I've looked everywhere but still cant find any info, even on the seas website. Would be good to have some specs.
My Fostex F120A Project
Finally finished my Fostex F120A project, Now they just need to break in. So far they sound promising. They are made with 1" thick solid hickory. They have 3 coats of Tung oil and 10 coats of rub-on-polly. I am using a diffuser behind the speaker to deflect waves hitting the back of the cone. They are power hungry as heck right now. Fortunately I have the power right now but I built them for use with SET amps. I am hoping after they break in they will get more sensitive.
Finally finished my Fostex F120A project, Now they just need to break in. So far they sound promising. They are made with 1" thick solid hickory. They have 3 coats of Tung oil and 10 coats of rub-on-polly. I am using a diffuser behind the speaker to deflect waves hitting the back of the cone. They are power hungry as heck right now. Fortunately I have the power right now but I built them for use with SET amps. I am hoping after they break in they will get more sensitive.
Attachments
Re the SEAS / oval whizzer. Some one did mention those, on this site. Compared to something else, and favourably IIRC.
Re my Weston Onkis / Westwell PM10s. That black paint is being a real pain. Can't get the res lower than 125 HZ. Big Midrangers. And one poles a bit if pushed, due to the paint not being even. When I get a few other projects out of the way, I'll order some cloth surrounds. And then maybe a 10" version of the design of Scott and Dave's that Cal has built.
Geoff.
Re my Weston Onkis / Westwell PM10s. That black paint is being a real pain. Can't get the res lower than 125 HZ. Big Midrangers. And one poles a bit if pushed, due to the paint not being even. When I get a few other projects out of the way, I'll order some cloth surrounds. And then maybe a 10" version of the design of Scott and Dave's that Cal has built.
Geoff.
This is a project my daughter and I built for her dorm
Making cabs
All the hardware
Gluing and Veneering
Set up in her dorm driven by a Crown D150 and her laptop
Making cabs
All the hardware
Gluing and Veneering
Set up in her dorm driven by a Crown D150 and her laptop
Re: Sp-200x speaker
SumacSK: I noticed you have the tweeter located below the fullrange. I read somewhere that this configuration causes the overall radiation axis to be slightly upward as opposed of downward (which is a good thing). Did you noticed this effect?
sumacSK said:
SumacSK: I noticed you have the tweeter located below the fullrange. I read somewhere that this configuration causes the overall radiation axis to be slightly upward as opposed of downward (which is a good thing). Did you noticed this effect?
Hello. My biggest build so far. I got a lovely pair of Coral Flat 8 II and thought a construction called AoE Horns in a Swedish HiFi magazin promising. It was constructed around McFarlow 8" and a tweater both nowaday obsolete. Calculations gave smaller changes. I first tryed with only Corals but didn´t like the upper end and very hard sweet spots. A Sonab tweater and 3´rd degree cut at 8000 (just for try something). The result was awesome. They are now my reference in other builds around BL horns. They should have a better filter because there is a lack in center image around the cut but my mind is still focused on newer projects. Another area of improvement is building with 24 mm ply instead of my 19 mm board since small resonans problems exist.
Kind regards
Kind regards
Attachments
Taiga said:
Looks like you built of some sort of particle board? Just switching to ply of the same thickness would probably be sufficient.
dave
To hot for starting. Couldn´t wait for better material and to stubborn to learn of mistakes. Yes your right that 19 mm ply is sufficient but then probably with stabilisation ribs somewere in mouth. I think a large horn are very sensitive for standing waves across the side panels in that area. When feeling with the hand you notice serious vibrations even on hard board like ply. Harder material is in my schoolbook with higher freqvency but lower amplitude. You know what you have but not what you get. Am i right? Perhapes the mouth isn´t as sensitive for colorization as earlier parts in the horn though.
Thanks for your interest
Thanks for your interest
My attitude is that it is hard to have too much bracing 🙂
In the horn pictured above i can see where i'd add at least 4 braces.
dave
In the horn pictured above i can see where i'd add at least 4 braces.
dave
