Full Range Speaker Photo Gallery

As originally configured it was fairly simple to experiment connecting the dual A12Ps per side to an outboard two channel power amp (Hypex UCD180) and run as subs with the A7s high-passed at the THX recommended 80Hz.
My HT receiver at the time only had a single LFE line output, but a simple Y splitter took care of that.

I really liked these a lot, but life changes get in the way of one’s plans, so…
Finished a pair of CGR for CHP-70. Best stereo image I had so far as nearfield on desk. I dont like much treble when I am in front of speakers. So the CHP-70 seems to work out for me at this application. Made out of 18mm plywood. Frontpanels and back are made out of beech. The rest is 18mm birk. 1 time hard wax oil applied so far. After a few days of listening, the sound seems wery balanced and I dont think they need any correction so far.
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Fostex FE 208 sigma old series with aluminium on the cone from both sides (=sandwich cone).

Also the whizzer cone is sandwiched with aluminium - I do that myself DIY. You can take beaten aluminium from the gold smith for doing this.

Its in a Mauhorn 5 which gives a low bass due to a long line


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I reworked my open baffles with 12 inch full ranges, and changed helper tweeters to some planars. They have a single cap, down 3 db at 10000 hertz, and are about 5 db less efficient than the full rangers. They add just enough extension without being intrusive, especially with my turntable source.
I've also reworked my about 48 x 26" open baffle bass panel to a more sightly push pull H Frame.
Fortunately the new wings on the stereo pair generate music bass just fine, and the powered bass only comes on for movies.


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I revisited my old WAW, the one with the Mark Audio Alpair 10.3 and the Scanspeak 26W/8534G00 woofer (both sealed cabinet). As dsp got good enough to be invisible with the MiniDSP Flex, i bought one and redid the crossover of the waw with dsp. No Dirac is used here yet, only Biquad and FIR filters, but i got it very flat in my (untreated) room like that... Amps used are the Audiophonics MPA-S125NC (Ncore NC252MP) for the bass and the Prima Luna Prologue 4 (PP tube) for the top. It's a huge improvement i have to say, no passive filter can do this. I got a new speaker almost. And as the flex has top ad/da conversion you don't hear that there is a digital filter...
Measurements are taken from my seating position.

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They are very different speakers in alignment. The CHN110 is very good but doing all the work and tuned low in an MLTL, the 10.3 is only doing it above 300Hz and therefor sound cleaner, and that scanspeak woofer in a sealed cabinet is the cleanest (sub)bass i know now with dsp conrrection. But even when it was passive it was one of the best bass cabinets i know. You seen the measurements in room, this one goes very low and keeps doing that until about 103dB/1m in open air for a pair. In room room gain makes them go ridiculous loud. The MLTL with the CHN starts to struggle 10dB lower (which is already very good for a 5.25" cone)...
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Nice. Since I made my speakers to suit my taste, it won't have a flat response at all. It has a baffle built to minimize front reflections, and act as a passive 100 hz highpass. The full range driver treble rolls of steeply at 17500 hz but only on axis; I've use a helper tweeters with limited vertical dispersion about 5db less efficient -3db at about 12000 hz to fill in.
I did use some dsp to fool around with active fixes, but soon returned to a shallowly sunk main driver and a smallish folded baffle.
Front and rear cavity resonances fix things up well enough to only use a sub for heavy bass cinema.
It's an odd 12" whizzer coned driver, the only driver I've ever come across that sounds better with a (3/8") roundovered sink from the back.
DSP was certainly handy as a tool to try out various notch filters. I wound up deciding I like the driver best without them for music.
For movies I do use an active parametric equalizer to drop 400hz a db and a half, for exaggerated vocal intelligibility.
Those look like we'll done builds. I still use 12P and 7P drivers in a couple other speakers.
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Joined 2021
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Correct, consequences.

I may add floor, the wall behind them is 100 yr old 1/2” ply. Maybe turn the whole listening setup.
I’ll try them inside in the living room at some point.
Drivers have a solid 35mins.

Fun build! They already sound more balanced, full (or some other descriptive audio word) than the Fostex folded horn kit I had in the same spot.
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