Haha, that is an option. I am working to get them on there. If you do want prices for a kit PM me or email me, I don't want to divert the thread off topic.
Quite a few pair of FH3 have been built out of solid. You have to know what you are doing, and invariably if it is going to hold together the panels are all made from a “breadboard” of quartersawn wood. Then some sort of finish that minimizes moisture loss or take up.
These guys do a commercial version in French Oak. The Valentini
How well it works will be dependent on your skill with solid wood, the species of wood used, and how thick you choose to make the panels.
Using a quality plywood will typically give you more consistent results, and i suspect that one would be hard-pressed to find a material better than stranded bamboo plywood.
A solid wood box can become a literal art-piece (we have been exposed to some of the fantastic work done by Bernie) so thay would have value beyond how good it sounds. Do the joinery right and so can the bamboo ply.
dave
I've tried many other speakers in HT but am more than satisfied with my four Frugals. No loss of steam here and the FE126en takes anything thrown at it.
Since I can do calibrated SPL measurements I am really surprised how soft I actually listen to music etc. While watching a movie at reference levels is shockingly loud, I think most people rarely do so at home. FE126en in frgugels will probably do for most I think.
Quick question
Is the Mk2 version considered the better choice for the older 126e.
I have a pair and want to build a new cabinet for them.
THX
Brian
Is the Mk2 version considered the better choice for the older 126e.
I have a pair and want to build a new cabinet for them.
THX
Brian
Mk2 of what, exactly? If you mean Frugel-Horn, there wasn't a FH-2 that ever saw the light of day, and the 3 is a much simpler build and works better than the FH1.
If you mean Buschhorn, I actually found the Mk1, once modified with a larger driver chamber to fit the 126 to work better than the Mk2.
If you mean Buschhorn, I actually found the Mk1, once modified with a larger driver chamber to fit the 126 to work better than the Mk2.
THX
So the Mk3 frugel horn will work with the 126e?
From what I had read(from skimming over this rather large thread) the Mk3 was design around the newer 126en.
Ive been reading up on the enabling process and plan on doing this soon.
thx
Brian
So the Mk3 frugel horn will work with the 126e?
From what I had read(from skimming over this rather large thread) the Mk3 was design around the newer 126en.
Ive been reading up on the enabling process and plan on doing this soon.
thx
Brian
No, FH3 was designed around the various 4in Mark Audio drive units. The FE126En and earlier FE126E will go in as options, although they will benefit from a high output impedance amplifier & corner loading.
Brian - as Dr Scott implies, the FE126En will "work" in the FH3, but does need all the help it can get in the bottom several octaves - which in the case of flea power tube SETs with their characteristic higher output impedence / low damping factor a certain amount of synergy exists.
While Nelson Pass's ACA is a treat, IMHO, something like the Decware Zen (EL84/SV83), Bottlhead Paramours or Stereomour (2A3), while lower power, are a tonally more sympatico combination.
The Alpair A7.3 or MAOP7 make more magic for me in the FH3 than any of the numerous drivers I've heard employed therein- of course all the standard caveats apply.
While Nelson Pass's ACA is a treat, IMHO, something like the Decware Zen (EL84/SV83), Bottlhead Paramours or Stereomour (2A3), while lower power, are a tonally more sympatico combination.
The Alpair A7.3 or MAOP7 make more magic for me in the FH3 than any of the numerous drivers I've heard employed therein- of course all the standard caveats apply.
Another excellent option to power the MK3 is this Volt+ TPA3118 from India. To my ears I prefer it to the ACA and it's less expensive even with the additional cost of a good regulated power supply.
I have a Charlize D class amp and a foreplay preamp that I have been using with my computer.I was driving a set of Ron's a166 horns with that setup.Those speakers are now on my main system and I want to build another pair.I've always liked doing something different,just for the learning curve.
I have looked at passlabs amps.I'm a diy'er at heart but at the time felt the F1j was beyond my ability. I have built a few guitar tube amps so I have gained some skill in this area.
I revisited passlabsdiy last night and was a little overwhelmed by the number of amps.
Is the FJ1 with the highest output impedance still the best amp for this application.
THX
Brian
I have looked at passlabs amps.I'm a diy'er at heart but at the time felt the F1j was beyond my ability. I have built a few guitar tube amps so I have gained some skill in this area.
I revisited passlabsdiy last night and was a little overwhelmed by the number of amps.
Is the FJ1 with the highest output impedance still the best amp for this application.
THX
Brian
fostex 126en
i have fostex 126en on the way. after reading this i hope that my system BA3/F5 and salas njfet phono don't disapoint. It will be my first diy speaker project, but now i don't know if it is a good choice. Do you think that with the F5 the fostex need another type of enclosure? or the fostex in mk3 really another amp?
i have fostex 126en on the way. after reading this i hope that my system BA3/F5 and salas njfet phono don't disapoint. It will be my first diy speaker project, but now i don't know if it is a good choice. Do you think that with the F5 the fostex need another type of enclosure? or the fostex in mk3 really another amp?
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joca - that musing quoted above should really only be considered my own preference, based on a small sampling of amps I've personally used with the FE126 in the FH3 and other BLHs.
I happen to favor the two Alpairs mentioned, but they definitely cost more - particularly the MAOPs. They also have a slight disadvantage in the sensitivity department, but gain in terms of wider bandwidth, and greater flexibility in terms of enclosure compatibility.
I happen to favor the two Alpairs mentioned, but they definitely cost more - particularly the MAOPs. They also have a slight disadvantage in the sensitivity department, but gain in terms of wider bandwidth, and greater flexibility in terms of enclosure compatibility.
Thanks chrisb. I went for the fostex because they are cheaper and have better sensitivity. I was afraid that the Mark audio was unable to fill my sound space. It is my first diy speaker. The F5 doesn't have the preferable output ohm/damping factor for the fostex so i begin thinking that they were a bad choice. Nothing to do now, just build it andar listen and then buy the markaudio and listen to compare. I also have a tubelab se in the bench but it will take a lot of tim€ to complete.
While the F1/F1J may be the bass king the F2/F2J is cheaper, simpler and perhaps sweeter. I believe Nelson recommended the F3 which is cheaper and simpler still (I'm no Pass amp expert, but luckily there are many, just search or ask over in the Pass Labs forum). All great choices, if you can deal with the heat and electricity bill!
I have a F2 which does wonders to the bass of my Fostex speakers. 🙂
I have a F2 which does wonders to the bass of my Fostex speakers. 🙂
i have 19mm MDF. for my first build i didn't want to risk an expensive BB.
can i follow the 18mm plan? i will end up with some imperfections i think. is it better to make compensations and leave the inside measurements intact?
thanks
can i follow the 18mm plan? i will end up with some imperfections i think. is it better to make compensations and leave the inside measurements intact?
thanks
Yes, it's the inside dimensions that should be maintained, most particularly the clearances between the interior divider panel, driver and top panel at the fold, and the lower choke point.