Your Pensils have A7s in them, the bezel ring came from the factory already afixed, on all the others there was a choice.
dave
yeah, OK, it is kinda hard to keep track, but that comment was more directed to general fabrication questions - the new drivers' frames have same physical dimensions as the first 7s, or the MAOPs for that matter.
Which, after I did a test hole, is the required 8mm or 5/16" of course! I'm so dense sometimes you could make speakers out of me! I like the pads. You don't have much material left after the chamfer and this way you get a little insurance.
Thanks for the tip.
You just need to have good visibility on the inside of your router base to see the markings of "pad" locations. - although many trim routers can easily spin a small 45dg bit through the amount of material you need to remove, on some it's hard to see inside.
Hey Chris,
What size of 45dg Chamfer bit would you suggest I buy for doing my Alpair 7.3 FH, 18mm BB with:
Cutting Tools - Router Bits Blue Tornado - Chamfer Bits - Busy Bee Tools
This bit may only ever get used for this project, but maybe I can find other uses for it in the future... making nice miter joints?
What size of 45dg Chamfer bit would you suggest I buy for doing my Alpair 7.3 FH, 18mm BB with:
Cutting Tools - Router Bits Blue Tornado - Chamfer Bits - Busy Bee Tools
This bit may only ever get used for this project, but maybe I can find other uses for it in the future... making nice miter joints?
Personally I'd spend more than $10 on a router bit for a task like this either Freud (40104 = 15mm 5/8" cut length), CMT, FS Tools or similar.
A 1/4" shank bit and small laminate trimmer would be perfectly fine for driver cut-out chamfers, but for mitre joints on approx 3/4" thick material, you'll need a "bigger gun" with 1/2" shank and router table. I use a CMT 836-950 - 1" cutting length.
A 1/4" shank bit and small laminate trimmer would be perfectly fine for driver cut-out chamfers, but for mitre joints on approx 3/4" thick material, you'll need a "bigger gun" with 1/2" shank and router table. I use a CMT 836-950 - 1" cutting length.
Point well taken Chris, most of my router bits are Freud.
The quality of the Busy Bee specials does not rival the name brand stuff like Freud.
But for jobs that will likely be a one and done, 10 bucks is better than
50 bucks sitting in the tool chest never to be used again.
The quality of the Busy Bee specials does not rival the name brand stuff like Freud.
But for jobs that will likely be a one and done, 10 bucks is better than
50 bucks sitting in the tool chest never to be used again.
fair enough, but I don't have a single router bit that's been used only once - in a commercial woodworking shop cheap tooling is considered a waste of money, if not dangerous
Hello guys,
At first I needed some auratone mixcubes like boxes, to have a small reference, mid oriented, for my mastering studio.
And searching with full rangers, I found the Frugel Horn mk3. I was seduced by the concept of more heavier lows with horn loading. So I bought my flatpack and a pair of alpairs 7.3 !
I did put for the moment only 20g below the driver, will see with break in finished.
For the moment, it's a little low mid/bass heavy, but i'm only at ~20 hours of not at all loud listening.
At first I needed some auratone mixcubes like boxes, to have a small reference, mid oriented, for my mastering studio.
And searching with full rangers, I found the Frugel Horn mk3. I was seduced by the concept of more heavier lows with horn loading. So I bought my flatpack and a pair of alpairs 7.3 !
I did put for the moment only 20g below the driver, will see with break in finished.
For the moment, it's a little low mid/bass heavy, but i'm only at ~20 hours of not at all loud listening.
Attachments
Interesting. I tried this some time back with twin alpair 7s - result was a more "powerful" sound, but I'm not sure if it was that much of an improvement. Would certainly suit bigger rooms though.
Fran
Fran
well you know there's always someone who thinks they need more, so proof of concept and all that.
essentially a pair of stacked FH3s without the angle - each of the VWRs in separate horn, with a little extra blocking at the separating panel to isolate the LDX tweeter
essentially a pair of stacked FH3s without the angle - each of the VWRs in separate horn, with a little extra blocking at the separating panel to isolate the LDX tweeter
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Curious if anyone has done a side by side comparison between FH MK3 and the much vaunted Kef LS50 or R300. (Or even Q300 for that matter.) Love to hear comments.
Thanks in advance for any comments.
UL
Thanks in advance for any comments.
UL
Since they couldn't be much more different, I'd suggest that the only worthwhile conclusion you could possibly draw from such a comparison is exactly that: they're different. 😉
I'm curious how they are difference. At the end of the day, they have the same purpose - to reproduce music...🙂
and ultimately a Tommy Hilfiger edition Hummer and Porsche 918 can both serve the basic function of grocery haulers ... 😉
I just chose the most extreme examples that popped into my head - and I doubt there's an official TH Hummer - that'd be silly, wouldn't it?
I just chose the most extreme examples that popped into my head - and I doubt there's an official TH Hummer - that'd be silly, wouldn't it?
Frugal and Hummer.
There's a classic example of oxymoron if I've ever seen one.
No reflection intended on any poster to this thread.
There's a classic example of oxymoron if I've ever seen one.
No reflection intended on any poster to this thread.
funny you didn't comment on the Porsche reference
of course this is completely out of the thread's context - but this thing is rather fricking gorgeous for a hybrid , if you like that sorta thing
of course this is completely out of the thread's context - but this thing is rather fricking gorgeous for a hybrid , if you like that sorta thing
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
