Thanks Bob,
Are you using the A7 with dual woofers for the stereo imaging or just a single sub?
And do you find the Alpair 7 to be more of an accurate sound with good definition, but not as 'romantic' for those who may be more inclined towards a good SET tube amp sound?
Thanks again for answering my query about the 120 hz.
UL
Are you using the A7 with dual woofers for the stereo imaging or just a single sub?
And do you find the Alpair 7 to be more of an accurate sound with good definition, but not as 'romantic' for those who may be more inclined towards a good SET tube amp sound?
Thanks again for answering my query about the 120 hz.
UL
Single sub in a corner against a glass wall and opposite an open french door. This is a dedicated HT setup that is usable for music. I have used the internal EQ, which is only 5 band to EQ the room. For music, particularly music without a lot of bass content, I use the "Pure Direct" function (straight through 2-channel -- no sub) and do the EQ on the laptop.
Let's not get into "tube sound" and restart that flame war. IMO the A7 (and the CHR-70, of which I have a pair in the shop speakers) want SS or T-amp to get a natural presentation. If you want a "tube amp" sound, then use tubes! Do remember that MA drivers are not the most sensitive around, so flea power SET's are pretty much out of the running anyway.
Bob
Thanks again for answering my query about the 120 hz.
UL
Thanks Bob. Much appreciated.
I'm new enough to not realize that there was ever a war regarding tube sound.....
For me, these are just tools and both tube and solid state are simply tools in the box. I know that I like a bit more of the 'round' or 'fat' tone, but do realise that SETs would not work well on these drivers so I have to find that tone elsewhere.
Thanks again! All the little bits of info you and other provide is painting a picture for me that helps in my determining what may work best for me.
UL
I'm new enough to not realize that there was ever a war regarding tube sound.....
For me, these are just tools and both tube and solid state are simply tools in the box. I know that I like a bit more of the 'round' or 'fat' tone, but do realise that SETs would not work well on these drivers so I have to find that tone elsewhere. Thanks again! All the little bits of info you and other provide is painting a picture for me that helps in my determining what may work best for me.
UL
A perfect tube amp and perfect SS amp would sound the same (this is of course tied in with speaker as amp/speaker/connection is a system, and perfect amp for one speaker may not be so for another)
Mark Audio drivers work well with good tube amps and some are/have used surprisingly small amps to drive them (ie 3.5 w to drive 82 db/W-m CHR-70). I'm very happy with my 20/40 watt dynamutt.
dave
Mark Audio drivers work well with good tube amps and some are/have used surprisingly small amps to drive them (ie 3.5 w to drive 82 db/W-m CHR-70). I'm very happy with my 20/40 watt dynamutt.
dave
Well FWIW, SET power can range well into double digit territory, so not all lack horsepower, and even the "flea power" types can have dynamic capabilities and resolution of micro detail that are very engaging.
But as Bob says, other than to relay there are several DIYers quite content with Mark Audio drivers and low power "tubers", let's not get too distracted by that conversation.
I've played my Pensil A7s with a couple of tube amps (5W SET EL34 & 12W PP EL84) as well as a 70WPC Denon AVR, and as much as I love the combination of SET and sensitive drivers, the Alpairs come to life with higher power. Unlike Bob, I use the Alpairs in a primarily video application ( i.e.when playing music, it's not for most serious listening) , and the only "EQ" employed is the LFE bass management and DSP component of the surround processing. While the receiver's auto-set up routine did suggest an XO of 90Hz, I did adjust it higher (either 110 or 120Hz), and as Bob says, when so protected, the A7 can play loud enough for an old guy.
(me, not Bob)
No doubt any degree of corrective EQ / BSC etc would benefit greatly from as much power headroom as you can afford.
It's been rather a long time ( almost a year?) I listened to the FH3 with any driver other than FE126E, but now that I've spent over a year with EL70s upstairs and 4-5months with Pensil 7s in the video system, that should be revisited.
But as Bob says, other than to relay there are several DIYers quite content with Mark Audio drivers and low power "tubers", let's not get too distracted by that conversation.
I've played my Pensil A7s with a couple of tube amps (5W SET EL34 & 12W PP EL84) as well as a 70WPC Denon AVR, and as much as I love the combination of SET and sensitive drivers, the Alpairs come to life with higher power. Unlike Bob, I use the Alpairs in a primarily video application ( i.e.when playing music, it's not for most serious listening) , and the only "EQ" employed is the LFE bass management and DSP component of the surround processing. While the receiver's auto-set up routine did suggest an XO of 90Hz, I did adjust it higher (either 110 or 120Hz), and as Bob says, when so protected, the A7 can play loud enough for an old guy.
(me, not Bob)
No doubt any degree of corrective EQ / BSC etc would benefit greatly from as much power headroom as you can afford.
It's been rather a long time ( almost a year?) I listened to the FH3 with any driver other than FE126E, but now that I've spent over a year with EL70s upstairs and 4-5months with Pensil 7s in the video system, that should be revisited.
See?
I have just packed my bag, and shall join you in the run for the hills ASAP Bob.
clearly I'm losing whatever acuity was there to start with - what did I miss?
just to further obfuscate and declarify - I like 'em (A7) both ways, but since in video application the primary agenda of the audio system is to support the oft overstated visual scope with larger than life everything, the higher power most conveniently available (and affordable) in a mainstream HT receiver certainly doesn't hurt
now a system with separate video and audio DSP processing and all tube line /power amps (such as the Deckert Ultra pre-amp and 3 or 4 power amps) would be an interesting test of the hypothesis of how much grunt is "mandatory" for low - moderate sensitivity speakers - whether single or multi-driver
dammit - still can't get those smilies to work other than by cut and paste from an existing post (on this PC at work and iMac at home - both using Firefox 4.01)
any resolution to that yet?
back to our regularly scheduled programing
For CNC routing and cut-plan optimization?
Since 4 of the 5 rectangular parts need bevel end cuts, I personally find it faster to cut all them on combination of beam and table saws rather than CNC router . This is reflected in my CAD drawings, as well as grain direction "matching" - all for a batch run of 15 pairs in 5x5ft sheet of Baltic Birch plywood. Also note that we elected to use 15mm for cases but increase the thickness of front baffle to 18mm to accommodate recessed mounting of the thicker bezels of Mark Audio drivers. This means a wider dado on the front edge.
In other words there are 2 parts to the drawings - the initial parts cut plan, and the DXF for CNC routing including dadoes.
If using a single thickness of material, 4x8s, or ignoring grain pattern direction, the layout could change significantly.
Thanks for the tip Chris, as I do not have the tools, my local cabinet maker asked for files in dxf format - I can do that, but was looking for a shortcut to save time.
As I already have them drawn out, it's pretty quick to copy items and reformat to suit his particular plan of attack - if you like have him PM me.
Yes. They have always been on offer. You just need to mail me with the pages of the pdf that you need.
dave
Victor discussion moved to its own thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/191159-woden-design-victor-fe166en.html
dave
dave
Bob. I also like the full length sides and the grill. It solves the problem of hiding the sometimes less than tidy joins showing at the front of the box. In my boxes, anyway. Neat.
Greetings, the FH3 will be my first DIY. Very much appreciate everyone on this forum and planet 10 for all the help with my newbie questions.
One more question:
I'd like to build this where one panel can be opened to change drivers, damping material etc through the years as drivers improve. What would be some elegant ways to build it so that it looks fully finished, and yet the cabinet can be opened for further modifications of the internals?
Thanks,
UL
One more question:
I'd like to build this where one panel can be opened to change drivers, damping material etc through the years as drivers improve. What would be some elegant ways to build it so that it looks fully finished, and yet the cabinet can be opened for further modifications of the internals?
Thanks,
UL
IMHO, just build them the way they are designed with a nice driver, as a finished speaker. Driver and enclosure designs are going to change down the road, so ultimately, you could be left with some nice firewood.
Of course, if you are designing prototypes, you can do whatever you want.
jeff
my 2cents = the fill levels "above" the driver should remain unchanged, so the easiest way to accomplish this would probably be to make a portion (but not full length) of the front panel removable
Use hardwood cleats & threaded inserts, (or /4" aluminum angle tapped for machine screws), countersunk button head screws and gasketing with foam weatherstripping. Install a couple of pieces of nylon mesh across the section below the driver and before the choke point to hold your experimental fill in place. I'd be inclined to inset both fixed and removable front panels and finish the exposed edge of curved side panels as you like.