Actually, the baffles are rebated for flush mounting, you just can't tell from the picture I attached. I will rasp the backs as suggested. I also have a little drum sander that attaches to my drill motor. I think I can get that it there too. I'll chamfer it the best I can at this point. And in case anyone was thinking I did a complete crap job on the top piece, it isn't attached yet! I'm leave that removable until I get them tuned to where it like them.
Thanks!
Thanks!
You also do the majority of the chamfer with a jig saw at 45° and use the rasp only where the blade would touch the side.
Is it my eyes or is the baffle vertical rather than angled back slightly?
Is it my eyes or is the baffle vertical rather than angled back slightly?
don't beat yourself up about the joinery - I don't document many of my builds, certainly not the sloppy ones (at least until they've been veneered over and tarted up)
I think you're right - how could I've missed that? In theory as long as the internal taper was maintained per the drawings, overall enclosure loading effect would probably remain unaffected, but the driver position is low enough that without the 5` tilt vertical dispersion and height of image could be a bit off.
Nope, the baffle is definitely at the proper 5 degree angle back. Just an optical illusion based on camera angle. I actually had the ply cut at the woodshop at the high school my wife teaches at. Using their large table saw (vs my benchtop one) and large miter saw was the way to go!
Tom
yes the old man is too lazy to learn & use the special function keys - particularly considering that I could be using any one of 3 difference 'puters and OS, 4 if you count the phone
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and they say the camera doesn't lie 🙄 - that's not what Tom Cruise's co-stars might say 😉
(he's short - almost as vertically challenged as moi)
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Hi Tom,
you can still route that chamfer with a proper template, guide bush and a dovetail bit. depending on the bit, the angle will be only 14°, but that will be ok.
bye,
yai.
you can still route that chamfer with a proper template, guide bush and a dovetail bit. depending on the bit, the angle will be only 14°, but that will be ok.
bye,
yai.
Do I need to dampen the back side of the baffle?
In other words, around the driver? I have the back wall, side walls, top and interior panels dampened, but I wasn't sure about the back of the front baffle.
And by the way, my Dremel Multi Max saw did the trick chamfering the baffle! It's all good now🙂
Thanks,
Tom
In other words, around the driver? I have the back wall, side walls, top and interior panels dampened, but I wasn't sure about the back of the front baffle.
And by the way, my Dremel Multi Max saw did the trick chamfering the baffle! It's all good now🙂
Thanks,
Tom
Mineral wool to line the walls?
Since I already glued it in place, I guess I'll find the answer, but I thought I'd ask...
The company I work for manufactures "fire blanket" for use in building expansion joints. The inner lining is made of mineral wool, which I can get my hands on, in unlimited quantities, 1" thick. So, I grabbed a roll, split it into 1/2" thickness and used it to line the walls of the cabinets. I assume this will accomplish what it's meant to do ... break up the standing waves in the cabinets? I know the recommendation is for the denim insulation but this was abundant and readily available. It sure looks good (I'll post a pic tonight). Any thoughts? I can always pull it off and glue in something else's guess (it would be a challenge through the top, but I think it could be done). What positive/negative sound characteristics should I listen for to determine if its doing what it should?
Tom
Since I already glued it in place, I guess I'll find the answer, but I thought I'd ask...
The company I work for manufactures "fire blanket" for use in building expansion joints. The inner lining is made of mineral wool, which I can get my hands on, in unlimited quantities, 1" thick. So, I grabbed a roll, split it into 1/2" thickness and used it to line the walls of the cabinets. I assume this will accomplish what it's meant to do ... break up the standing waves in the cabinets? I know the recommendation is for the denim insulation but this was abundant and readily available. It sure looks good (I'll post a pic tonight). Any thoughts? I can always pull it off and glue in something else's guess (it would be a challenge through the top, but I think it could be done). What positive/negative sound characteristics should I listen for to determine if its doing what it should?
Tom
CHP-70 Gaskets?
I have the CHP-70 enabled drivers ... are there supposed to be a mounting gaskets with the drivers? I didn't receive any if there are. Just wanted to check since the Mark Audio data sheet refers to them.
I have the CHP-70 enabled drivers ... are there supposed to be a mounting gaskets with the drivers? I didn't receive any if there are. Just wanted to check since the Mark Audio data sheet refers to them.
The absorption characteristics of mineral wool and the recycled denim are reasonably similar. I doubt you could hear a difference between equivalent applications.
Tom,
Check to see if the gasket is already stuck to the back of the bezel -- that is how i usually ship them.
If i forgot, then i will send you a pair.
dave
Dave,
The gaskets are definitely not there. If you could drop a pair in the mail I'd appreciate it. I'll PM you with my address.
Thanks!
Tom